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Posted

Alright. It's that time of year where people have a lot of money from taxes and most put it into replacing or upgrading stuff.
Right now, I'm definitely going to throw the money at the upgraded spider injectors. If that doesnt fix that problem, at least I'll know that I have a better injector set up than stock.
Now I come to a bit of a crossroad about the window motors/regulators. Right now, the driver side front window doesnt go in either direction electrically. But it moves freely if you use your hands. And when you press the button for either direction, you can hear something in the door that sounds like the motor, which makes me think maybe the motor came loose of the regulator (if that's even possible). Also, I have a problem with the rear passenger window. It does go down freely with the button(s), but doesnt go up as freely. It seems as if the front end is attempting to go up quicker than the back, thus wedging it in. Now, if I have someone hold it at it's top and shift is forwards, it does up freely, as long as they hold it straight. Would that be the motor, the regulator, both, or just a needed adjustment?

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
Posted

GM cars seem to be notorious for this issue. It's happened to my mom's Olds and my Buick, and I've seen numerous others with the windows taped up or with wedges.

On mine, it happened to be that the plastic that attaches the window to the regulator/motor assembly shattered. It popped when it rolled down, and wouldn't go back up. Got to my dad's house and messed with it and the window moved freely by hand. I got my dad to come out and help me, and we accidentally dropped it in the door, so we had to pull the door panel off to get to it. I haven't gotten around to getting the replacement parts yet. Right now it's just being held up with a couple of vice grips.

The "child lock" sticker is right above the bracket, and all the white pieces scattered throughout the door is the part that attaches the window to the regulator.

img2012121200029.jpg

2016 Ford Focus SE

No build log yet
DC Audio 1.2K
2x DC Audio Level 2 10"

Posted

Well the glass is still connected to the regulator. I can watch it move with the window while the door panel is off.

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.
Posted

As for your back window, depending how it attaches to the regulator- a lot of them are bolted onto tabs that are glued to the glass...if these bolts are loose, it will force the window to slide, jamming it up as you described. Also keep in mind, as a car gets older, so does the regulator. They can burn out or just get slower and slower as the car ages. The front window can have the same problems, loose bolts, broken tabs (this can definitely happen if the plastic tab wasn't glued to the glass well and separates.), as well as, a snapped regulator cable- Sometimes these cables bind up and snap or run off track.

bad regulator problems such as snapped or bound cable, will require you to buy a new regulator as there's really no way to unbind it (the motor usually comes with the regulator as a package). But problems with the tab on the glass will need you to buy a new piece of glass as they get factory glued to the glass. If you want to, take it to any autoglass shop and they can take care of it for you; mainly because it's usually easier to source the glass part or regulator through them instead of trying to find it yourself.

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Posted

Not a cable regulator. It's the scissor type.

1999 GMC Suburban SLT
No system planned just yet.

Look at "hate" spelled backwards. It spells "e-tah." For example, if you hate me you can e-tah dick.

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