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Video: MB Quart ONX216 SQ test <--- Installed New Video added


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When choosing a set on a budget I like to look at frequency response and the crossover point, if the tweeters can get down below 3KHz it makes a HUGE difference in SQ.

I'm gonna hate

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/\/\ LOL

I understand that. The crappy part about that is the high power handling comp sets get real pricey fast.

Unless you go with pro audio stuff which is cheap with high power handling, but Im still not sure how I feel about running PA style sound equiptment in my car. Have not heard any of them in person, so I doubt the SQ can be better then a true component set. Most pro audio 6.5"s base frequency response is like 125-200hz, where I do not want to loose the 70hz- 125 hz range on my mids.

EDIT, and I dont mean they only pick up 125-200hz tones by that statement above. where the response begins

XS-power1.jpg

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Well, I went to leave to go do a distance test and its pouring down rain. So I left and got some redbull and vodka instead, hopefully it will clear up by tomorrow.

Hell yeah. Are you using that 14g SHA wire for these?

Alpine PDX-V9


Morel Tempo 6


Alpine SBR-S8-4


Alpine CDE 149BT



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Well, I went to leave to go do a distance test and its pouring down rain. So I left and got some redbull and vodka instead, hopefully it will clear up by tomorrow.

Hell yeah. Are you using that 14g SHA wire for these?

right now, I just used it from the crossover, so about (6) 16 inch strips off the cross over to the power, mid,, and tweet, I did not run all of it because I am going to buy a mids and high amp shortly, and would have to redo it all, so any thing else I would have cut for this install would have been wasted just running it to the HU. Not that it is a great expense, lol, but on the installation video, I wired the stuff directly into the factory clips until I choose an amp.

XS-power1.jpg

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RMS ratings on almost every component/coax set are a complete lie. If you have clean power you can get away with a lot more than you think. I would easily put those MBQs on 120w+ but I suppose that is just me. I'm running $40 coaxials on 150w RMS quite successfully right now lol. Your HPF setting is important to power handling, if you have subs like most here you can leave it at 80-100Hz and get a lot of headroom as far as power goes that way.

I'm gonna hate

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RMS ratings on almost every component/coax set are a complete lie. If you have clean power you can get away with a lot more than you think. I would easily put those MBQs on 120w+ but I suppose that is just me. I'm running $40 coaxials on 150w RMS quite successfully right now lol. Your HPF setting is important to power handling, if you have subs like most here you can leave it at 80-100Hz and get a lot of headroom as far as power goes that way.

I agree,

takes a lot less power and effort to make some mids and highs loud than bass hz,

probably 1/10th the power or even less to keep up with the bass

XS-power1.jpg

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Definitely true head unit power can do the job for 1,000W RMS depending on how much cone area you have. I meant to say I have good luck overpowering the hell out of mids/highs so long as I set my crossovers right. When I buy comps that say 80w RMS I assume they will take 100+ @80-100Hz HPF if they are from a good company. If I buy comps that claim to take 150w RMS I am glad my amp has 150% of headroom because chances are I can put all of that and then some on them.

I'm gonna hate

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