Building a ported box for my 2 x SA-10D4's

[Brandon Breazeale]

Thanks again 160db, I am comfortable building this box and love to do something new. Just want to make sure the box I'm building is actually going to match my subs.

The round pieces of dowel that is used for bracing I'm assuming, does it matter what type of wood I use, and how important is the extra bracing.

I also defiantly want to do the 45's for bracing and airflow

One last questions, 160db for

Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:

2 x Front to Back = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2
2 x Extension = 6 1/8 x 12 1/2

i'm assuming this should be 1x 13 3/4 x 12 1/2 and 1x 6 1/8 x 12 1/2 since there is only one vent

And I already bought a 8'x4' sheet of 3/4" MDF since I only had a little sheet left after I cut speaker baffles for my front and rears last year. I'll probably call loses (where I bought it) and see if I can take it back and have them cut it, since it would make it quite a bit easier.

[Brandon Breazeale]

and can anyone verify that these these subs being pushed by a SAZ-1500v3 will be ideal in a 2.5cuft box, which would net 2.3cuft or 1.15cuft per sub after sub volume displacement

[ecxtimmy]

bump

[Joe X]

Thanks again 160db, I am comfortable building this box and love to do something new. Just want to make sure the box I'm building is actually going to match my subs.

The round pieces of dowel that is used for bracing I'm assuming, does it matter what type of wood I use, and how important is the extra bracing.

I also defiantly want to do the 45's for bracing and airflow

One last questions, 160db for

Shared Port Internal Assembly Parts:

2 x Front to Back = 13 3/4 x 12 1/2

2 x Extension = 6 1/8 x 12 1/2

i'm assuming this should be 1x 13 3/4 x 12 1/2 and 1x 6 1/8 x 12 1/2 since there is only one vent

And I already bought a 8'x4' sheet of 3/4" MDF since I only had a little sheet left after I cut speaker baffles for my front and rears last year. I'll probably call loses (where I bought it) and see if I can take it back and have them cut it, since it would make it quite a bit easier.

Ok for wooden dowel rods use oak, birch for example.

The 45 inside the port is done like this:

Some extra info:

Box building tips:

1 Build a cardboard dummy box to see if it fits perfectly in the way in and if you can close the trunk lid without problems.

2) use Titebond II wood glue and MDF/Drywall screws and once it dried apply silicone caulk to avoid any potential leaks.

3) you can get your MDF wood cutted at Home depot, just need a jigsaw to finish the job.

Finally your amp can work well with that box/subs, make sure you have a strong electrical and set your gains properly.

Make sure you read the notes below the pic.

Hope there is enough info to get you started.

[Brandon Breazeale]

Yup, already have titebond 2 wood glue and drywall 1 5/8" screws, got those from a recommendation from http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm, i'm very comfortable using a jigsaw since I've cut about 10 different size speaker baffles out of MDF that I used last year for my front and rear speakers. Going to Lowes today to have them cut the MDF for me.

As far as electrical, I upgraded my alternator to a 160amp (stock integra is about 80). I did the Big 3 last year using 0 gauge wire, alternator to battery, motor to chassis and front battery all the way to the trunk to a distribution block (kinetiks battery is wired to the distribution block with 0 gauge as well) all grounds are solid. and I have a Kinetiks 1800 battery mounted in my trunk. SAZ-1500 is set pretty well atm but I'll tweek with it after I build the box, gain set alittle under half, subsonic at about 30, LP set about about 120hz on amp and 100hz from my HU which is a Kenwood Excellon 896