Purplehaze Posted April 21, 2013 Report Posted April 21, 2013 Hey guys, I am in the process of building my car (Kickin' Cruiser) and I desperately need to add a second alternator. The only choice I really have is to replace the A/C compressor, which is totally fine with me, I don't plan on ever re-installing it, it's just not needed. But more power definitely is! So a while back, I ran across a guy here (neofrog) who had attempted this same thing to the same car. He got it installed and working, but it failed prematurely due to poor belt wrap. He bought the alt. from Iraggi, who also made the bracket. Here is a pic of his setup.I just need to find out what vehicle this alt came from originally, so I can buy one, and give it a shot myself. My plan is to add a tensioner to give it more belt wrap. Anyway, if you guys can help me figure out what this came from, I would greatly appreciate it!EDIT: I was told this alt was from a 2002 Trailblazer 4.2L I6. However, I believe it came from a 01-06 Chrysler Sebring 2.4LNow I just need to know, do I have to use one from a newer (PCM controlled) Trailblazer, or can I use one like this with an additional regulator?Thanks for any help! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build
Purplehaze Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Posted April 22, 2013 image doesn't work Hmm, not sure, it's working for me? Anyway this alt was from a 2002 4.2L Trailblazer it turns out. So here is my question. If I were to install one of these in my 2002 PT Cruiser, which is PCM controlled, would I need to use one from a newer model Trailblazer that is also PCM controlled? Or could I just use one from say a 2003, with a voltage regulator? I have a MLA on my car, also. Thanks for any help! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build
Tarball Posted April 22, 2013 Report Posted April 22, 2013 Sorry I don't have much input on the wiring for Mopar PCM but from the picture it looks like you could mount an idler pulley on that bolt hole just below the alt to help with the belt wrap issue. GL! CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Purplehaze Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Posted April 22, 2013 Sorry I don't have much input on the wiring for Mopar PCM but from the picture it looks like you could mount an idler pulley on that bolt hole just below the alt to help with the belt wrap issue. GL! Thanks man, I was actually thinking the exact same thing. Maybe even one more on the side if it will fit. But even just one pulley would probably help tremendously! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build
x91evo Posted April 22, 2013 Report Posted April 22, 2013 I went through some HUGE problems with my PCM controlled jeep cherokee.IMO I wouldnt go above a 12V 14V charging system.I was at 16.5V charging on an external transpo and the PCM didnt like that too much (jeep experts told me not to go above 14V charging)Left me stranded one day, and have been trying to figure it out for a few months.So after that ordeal I went down to the 12V systemSome people dont have issues with just disconnecting the PCM regulator wire (I was fine for almost 2 years), and other people have major issues from my experience.I think my PCM issues were unique but just keep that in the back of your mind if you go external
Purplehaze Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Posted April 23, 2013 I remember your build and problems. I felt sorry for ya for sure.Yeah I won't be going over 15 volts, period. I have an MLA right now, charge at 14.6, aand I'm very happy with that. I just want to add the other alt to give more charging amp to the load, it wont actually raise the voltage any. And if I did want to go 16v, I would do a floating system, so as to avoid all the problems you faced.Thanks for the heads up! And if you don't know what we are talking about, look it up. It's a very informative read. Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted April 23, 2013 Report Posted April 23, 2013 Use one from before the rvc regulator which is a four pin. The only issue is your alternators will have different voltage set points. Also don't expect very good idle output on a gm alternator like that on a smaller of cruiser motor
Purplehaze Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Posted April 24, 2013 Use one from before the rvc regulator which is a four pin. The only issue is your alternators will have different voltage set points. Also don't expect very good idle output on a gm alternator like that on a smaller of cruiser motor Thanks man, I really appreciate your help! About the voltage set point, would that be different since I have a MLA voltage boost mod? My car charges at 14.6. So would I be better off then to run a floating system? Maybe 16v? Also, could you guys build me an alt like this, but specifically for my car, so it could be used either way? (floating or paired) Thanks again for your time! Kickin' Cruiser Seller Feedback Stage 3 Dash, Door Panels,4th Order wall 4 - 15'son a DC 5.0K 2 DC 5.0K'sSolo X 15 (v.2) Sub Build
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted April 24, 2013 Report Posted April 24, 2013 Feel free to pm me about any more questions with the voltage set points.
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