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Voltage issue.... help?


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My car has this exact same problem. Its not the alt in my case though, its just how the cars computer works. Maybe you'll have a different result if it just randomly started acting like that

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06 Mini Cooper S

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If its easily accessible maybe try to disconnect the ELD/bypass all together for a day or two. Then you can at least tell if its something in your bypass or actually your alt. It sounds like you did your research and verified everything but hey I'm sure it's easier than ripping the alt out lol.

06 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 DC Level4 12"

Soundstream TA1.3000d

4 RF Punch 6.5" Components

2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways

RF Prime 400.4D

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My car does the exact same thing, now I don't drop to 12.6 or 12.4, but at idle i go to around 12.8-12.9 and I can't bump at all because the alt doesnt kick in. THen again, I am in a honda that has a ELD and may be restircting my alt from when it can output. Also I am on stock electrical with the big 3

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
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  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
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  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
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If its easily accessible maybe try to disconnect the ELD/bypass all together for a day or two. Then you can at least tell if its something in your bypass or actually your alt. It sounds like you did your research and verified everything but hey I'm sure it's easier than ripping the alt out lol.

My car does the exact same thing, now I don't drop to 12.6 or 12.4, but at idle i go to around 12.8-12.9 and I can't bump at all because the alt doesnt kick in. THen again, I am in a honda that has a ELD and may be restircting my alt from when it can output. Also I am on stock electrical with the big 3

Disconnecting ELD will throw a CEL. Bypassing will be more work as I'll need to redo all the wiring to tap into the wires (which I can't confirm if they are the right wires). From my understanding, the ELD bypass fake an electric load to enable ELD and kick in the alt. Similarly, I was able to do that with just turning my headlights on before. Now turning the lights on doesn't help at all. In fact, it work the opposite as it draws a bit more current and alt is not producing shit to help. I might try to pull out the ALTC to see if that will help.

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2013 DbDrag WF SS1-2 - 5th Place 154.6db

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My car has this exact same problem. Its not the alt in my case though, its just how the cars computer works. Maybe you'll have a different result if it just randomly started acting like that

Just started to act up last week. I always have my headlights on so voltage had been pretty steady. And there has not been any changes to the system or the car... well besides new tires :D

My Build Log- T E A M S U N D O W N A U D I O -

2013 DbDrag WF SS1-2 - 5th Place 154.6db

2013 MECA Mod3 CA State Final Champ 153.4db

Powered by: Sundown Audio

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If its easily accessible maybe try to disconnect the ELD/bypass all together for a day or two. Then you can at least tell if its something in your bypass or actually your alt. It sounds like you did your research and verified everything but hey I'm sure it's easier than ripping the alt out lol.

>My car does the exact same thing, now I don't drop to 12.6 or 12.4, but at idle i go to around 12.8-12.9 and I can't bump at all because the alt doesnt kick in. THen again, I am in a honda that has a ELD and may be restircting my alt from when it can output. Also I am on stock electrical with the big 3

Disconnecting ELD will throw a CEL. Bypassing will be more work as I'll need to redo all the wiring to tap into the wires (which I can't confirm if they are the right wires). From my understanding, the ELD bypass fake an electric load to enable ELD and kick in the alt. Similarly, I was able to do that with just turning my headlights on before. Now turning the lights on doesn't help at all. In fact, it work the opposite as it draws a bit more current and alt is not producing shit to help. I might try to pull out the ALTC to see if that will help.

I do the same thing with my air, if I am driving, I have to turn my air on if it is still to bright for lights in order to have a good voltage and bump.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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