Some help please..3000 watts

[alenv10]

very nice, yea i will probably have to do that, because i always run 0 gauge and that wont fit in the 1200's

[Watch the bass]

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23923_Hifonics_BRZ17001D.aspx Strap 2 BRZ 1700

[ncochran]

lol for the guy who bashed hifonics.. you will definitely get rated wattage at rated voltage... they are built CEA compliant which means that you will indeed get XXXX watts if you provide XXXX volts as advertised. You should not expect a lot more than rated though. Read up on it and you will see that although hifonics is not top of the line, you do get what they advertise. I believe their newer amps all are, but some of their older ones may not be. Here is a link about CEA compliance.

http://www.cea2006.com/cea2006.htm

Now I am not saying that a 3kw hifonics will put out as much power as a 3k DC (actually 3.5k dc but you get the idea) ... I am saying that a 3kw hifonics will put out 3k.

i'd still rather have an amp that is rated for 3k but really does 4k, over a 3k amp that needs to see a constant 14.4v to get 3k out of it.

I don't disagree with you. More power is almost always better lol. But he asked for a reasonably priced 3k amp, not a 4k amp with a 3k badge (and a 4k price tag) lol. To each their own though. I wanted more power so I bought a bigger amp than I actually needed too. Helps for future upgrades. If my budget was not limited I would have totally bought either the sundown 3500 or dc 3.5k... very little doubt that they are higher quality, stronger amps.

[alenv10]

brz1700 is strappable?

either way i want to stick to q1-1200's much cleaner power

[Nikitaaa]

OP- if I was in your shoes, I would buy a bigger amp that you can turn down for a couple reasons.

1) If you ever upgrade subs, you'll have spare power without having to hassle and sell/buy

2) Just because those 1200's match the RMS of the subwoofers doesn't mean that the subs are going to be powered to their limit. I predict they would actually be grossly underpowered when all the factors come into play.

If you have good electric to back it up, I would even run a excess of 5k Watts to the 4. If you are positive clipping isn't associated you can get away with a lot over the RMS. What can I say though, I'm crazy

[mwjustic]

I do agree that if this isnt going to be your last build than plan ahead when buying your equipment. That may not change your mind. Since when i do upgrade i want to strap 2 1200 to each sub and have 4 over all. I personally like the looks of running multiple amps and these things are small enough you can put them just about anywhere.

[mwjustic]

this is the 1200. I do not have large hands so you can see it is quit small for the power it puts out.

[Guest]

OP- if I was in your shoes, I would buy a bigger amp that you can turn down for a couple reasons.

1) If you ever upgrade subs, you'll have spare power without having to hassle and sell/buy

2) Just because those 1200's match the RMS of the subwoofers doesn't mean that the subs are going to be powered to their limit. I predict they would actually be grossly underpowered when all the factors come into play.

If you have good electric to back it up, I would even run a excess of 5k Watts to the 4. If you are positive clipping isn't associated you can get away with a lot over the RMS. What can I say though, I'm crazy

x2 number 1 and 2. woofers will probably see 300rms a piece after everything is installed and working.

[alenv10]

lmao they deff wont be seeing fuckin 300 watts lol wtf my shit wont be dropping down to some 10.0 voltage

[Nikitaaa]

lmao they deff wont be seeing fuckin 300 watts lol wtf my shit wont be dropping down to some 10.0 voltage

Read up bud. Voltage isn't the only factor that comes into play when you are determining how much power your amps are producing. Just because you have them at 1 ohm nominal doesn't mean that impedance will be seen at a given number of frequencies in a reactive manner.