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Fi options and detailed specs


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it lists itself stable at .5ohm on the website. are they lying? ive read great things about carchendo and i have some of there door speakers in the truck now, i dont have any reason to believe they claim things that are not true. if not the baseclef then what amp should i run the sub from? i dont think a 2500.1 kicker can give enough power for it.

The sub will be a dual 1 ohm. its going to start off on a ZX 2500.1 kicker at 2Ohm and then when i upgrade the power i will rewire down to .5. the electric will be 4 1700CA batteries (2 factory) with a 280A alternator. 280 is the highest i can find with out spending a crazy amount. factory is 223A and thats what im running now. i emailed singer and they said they could make a 4 phase i think? at around 400A but it would be 900.00 so thats a down the road upgrade.

this is in a dodge ram 2500 cummins.

Dude put like a 2x4 on both sides of the sub or get some threaded rod or something lol I dont know shit about box bracing but seriously.... thats overkill for any setup, let alone 1 18. And why .5 ohms for daily? Just wire to 1 ohm so you dont stress your amp and electrical system. What is your electrical gonna be like anyways?

That amp isnt even 1 ohm stable... good luck at .5 ohms on any electrical system lol
Oh I thought you meant the kicker my bad

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perhaps i could order the dual 2 ohm option and wire it at 1. wouldnt make any major difference would it?

I saw a guy on YouTube who had 2 18s on a crescendo 3500 @ .5 and switched to 1 ohm and said the sound quality was a lot better and at .5 it was reaalllyyyy inefficient

2006 Ford Explorer

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Rockford p1000-2

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hmmm. i have a guy that wants to buy my 2500.1 for 700 ish. if i can sell that and buy a better more powerfull amp for maybe 800-900 then i think thats how i want to go. i had the FI BL 18 on a ZX1500.1 and i swaped it for a ZX2500.1 and the 1500W sub took 2500W with out issue, just ate it up. to that end i think i want this 3000W sub to get somthing around the 5Kw range. i really want to have an over powfull amp and keep the gains down to nothing so if i could buy that baseclef at 5800W 1ohm then at .5 ohm id think it would be easy to do. that said if i run it at 1 ohm and buy a dual 2 sub then it will get the 5800 and maybe thats more than enough? down side is id have to buy that amp soon as the kicker i dont think will like 4 ohm very much and i kinda doubt i could run it on 1 ohm? do you think the kicker with perfect clean power and good cooling could handle 1 ohm with gains at 0-5%?

im strapped for cash on the budget for the rebuild processes so im trying to keep things in check. buying the sub, box build, and a new amp at the same time isnt an option but a few months appart is.

nothing, gutted

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Dude just wait to build the box when you have the sub

That way you can easily get all the measurements you want. Also that amp will put out more than 5800. I saw a guy on here with a 3500 and after box rise he was at like 2.3 ohms and the amp was putting 2200 watts at 11ish volts on a stock electrical system, which is 300 more than rated..... AT 11 VOLTS. Dont worry about power with that amp lol and if you wanna go ahead and get the 5500 go ahead. But at 2 ohms idk that bl can handle, maybe it can idk

2006 Ford Explorer

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6th order

Ct Sounds 7k

4 PRV Mr500 8s

Rockford p1000-2

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well im sure the BL would not handle the 5500 but i think the SP4 will take it. right now im more concerned with the box setup, even if i had the sub here right now it seems im not ready to build it. i need to redesign it with less bracing or somthing. i need someone to talk to who knows exactly what the bracing should be in this application.

nothing, gutted

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just a few lengths of 2X2 or dowells? secured by a recessed mounting hole, wood glue, and screws? would 2 braces foruming a cross work to connect tops and sides and then 2 more on either side of hte sub opening front to back?

should i build mid point 45's into the box to support where the panels glue together?

im told that the less flex the better the sound quality and that this sub will flex a lot. others had recomended i build the box from 1" MDF or double up on all the 3/4". do you think thats needed?

my Fi BL box was made of 1" MDF so id think i would need the same or stronger for the SP4 no?

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Yeah you could double up on everything. All thread side to side. Up and down. Resin it all. Fiberglass the corner.

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And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head.

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I've never seen or heard of anyone using all thread before on sub boxes. Do you use large washers and bolts on the in and out to hold them rigidly together? I'd rather not have bolts sticking out the sides and top and bottom box if possible.

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