jarredondo1999 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Posted May 25, 2013 On mY tahoe after the big 3 I gained in voltage. Can't remember the gain. I removed all stock wiring. Didn't reuse the regulator. Just the Wires for the big 3.pos from batt to alt. Ground to engine block. And a ground to the chassis. I left the original wires. I may add a ground from frame to chassis.
jarredondo1999 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Posted May 25, 2013 Went outside this morning and on a cold start up, it read 14.31. Then right after I turned on my lights and ac, it dropped So could it be a bad ground? I am going to move my grounds around to see what happens next.
covi1234 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 Has to be a bad ground. Like I said batt negative to chassis and batt ground to engine block
Tarball Posted May 26, 2013 Report Posted May 26, 2013 This just doesn't make sense, if you left all stock wiring in place and this wasnt happening before then adding wires, even if there is a loose ground shouldn't drop voltage. If the path of least resistance is your factory wiring, then it would behave exactly how it did before any mods. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Lifted2000Ford4x4 Posted May 27, 2013 Report Posted May 27, 2013 check your grounds, if your still having a problem... i think your in the market for a new alt.
DroppedSdime Posted May 27, 2013 Report Posted May 27, 2013 also check the stud on the back of your alt, I had the same problem with my s10, I went nuts trying to figure it out. Finally i found out that the stud on the alt for the charge wire was stripped and lose, went and got a alt from the junk yard and it fixed the problem. SPL Audio 18, 5.5cb ft tuned to 34 hzAB 150.1 @1400 rms wired to 1OhmPPI A26.5'sKenwood HU
jarredondo1999 Posted May 29, 2013 Author Report Posted May 29, 2013 Fixed the problem. I moved the ground from the battery to the frame. I had it going to the alternator casing. This fixed my problem, everything is now reading 14.30. Thanks everyone.
Chipmunk-Alero Posted May 29, 2013 Report Posted May 29, 2013 I was wondering because I read where you said ground to alt casing and then alt casing to batt negative or something like that. Glad you figured it out but yes, the grounds are to be attached just not on the alt ground, but on the chassis ground. 2001 Oldsmobile Alero 4Dr GL2 - R.I.P.2006 Dodge Charger R/TJVC KDx40AudioQ 2200d Big 3 and KNU 1/0 Fi BL 15" (09 model) 4.2 cuft net @ 33hz(15.8 sq in per cube) 1999 Ford Ranger XLTPioneer DEH-6200btRockford Fosgate T400-4, T1500-1bdCP, T1 6.5" Components, RCA's, Distro blocks.1 Fi Car Audio BL 12 - 2.5 cuft net @31hz(16.8 sq in per cube)XS Power S3400, 2 KNU 1/0 runs and KNU Big 3. Build Log ----> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170878-99-ford-ranger-fi-rockford-xs-power/
jarredondo1999 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Report Posted May 30, 2013 I was wondering because I read where you said ground to alt casing and then alt casing to batt negative or something like that. Glad you figured it out but yes, the grounds are to be attached just not on the alt ground, but on the chassis ground. Yea, I move the wire from the battery negative to the frame. Before I had it going to the alternator casing, then from the alternator casing to the frame.
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