jarredondo1999 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 I have a 99 chevy tahoe with a D3400 battery up front. My voltage was usually 14.00 but after doing the Big 3, it dropped to 12.30. Is there a way to make sure I did this right? I connected a wire from the battery positive to the alternator positive. I then connected a wire from the negative battery to the alternator casing. Then from the alternator casing to the frame. I crimped all my connections and sanded the frame where I grounded my wire. Could I have a bad ground or a weak alternator? Below are some pics, any help is appreciated. Thanks,
TaylorFade Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 Like... your voltage drop is to 12.3 or that's your charging voltage with the truck running? Because that... is definitely not right. Have you checked fuses and what not? Have you verified that voltage with a DMM or are you relying solely on the one in the gauge cluster?
Pioneerchuck Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 Like Taylor asked above about the cluster voltage meter, if thats all you're using then you need to buy a DMM because those clusters are notorious for the going bad and giving false readings all the time!
jarredondo1999 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Posted May 25, 2013 It 12.30 on start up and I used a volt meter.With the truck off I first checked the voltage on the battery and it was 12.30 then used the positive on the battery with the negative on the alternator casing and it also read 12.30.
TaylorFade Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 12.3 with the truck running means it's not charging. At all. Check your alt fuse.
jarredondo1999 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Posted May 25, 2013 12.3 with the truck running means it's not charging. At all. Check your alt fuse. Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow morning. I am starting to think that the negative wire on the alternator casing may be the issue.
TaylorFade Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 12.3 with the truck running means it's not charging. At all. Check your alt fuse. Thanks, I'll check it tomorrow morning. I am starting to think that the negative wire on the alternator casing may be the issue. I doubt it. But maybe. If your fuses are good... undo things until your voltage comes back up.
Tarball Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 Did you leave the stock wiring in place ? Make sure the regulator is plugged in. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
covi1234 Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 On mY tahoe after the big 3 I gained in voltage. Can't remember the gain. I removed all stock wiring. Didn't reuse the regulator. Just the Wires for the big 3.pos from batt to alt. Ground to engine block. And a ground to the chassis.
jarredondo1999 Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Posted May 25, 2013 Did you leave the stock wiring in place ? Make sure the regulator is plugged in. Yes, I left the original wires and still using the regulator.
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