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"BOX RISE" is there a way to control it?????


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i'm sorry about my first post lol i was reading in to his level of worry about box rise and just had to say something funny and that line just hit me thats all.

as for the box rise problem you do have a few tricks you can do.

  1. play with fill. i know it sounds odd but i have seen 1ohm change in rise do only to the adding and removing of fill.
  2. round all the corners in the box the pockets trap sound waves and add reverb this will almost always force a rise in ohm load. as well as make boxes a lot more peeky making a good sub sound bad
  3. vent location in respect to the subs location
  4. build a T-line type wave guide box with help a lot with rise but take a lot more room
  5. flare ports and lower vent velocity.

this is just a few things i do day in day out

Socal based free lance installer / custom box builder

list of past Records

The Beasty (94 explorer)

152.3db best it did before it was flipped on the freeway

the power

4 ORG Fi BTL's 15's

4 Stetsom 6K5E - 2 Ohm amps

8 xs power D2400's

3 mechman alts

The Toy Box (08 Scion XB)

all new project started 9/11/13

c-piller wall 2 maybe 3 15's

very low budget fighting cancer right now

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i'm sorry about my first post lol i was reading in to his level of worry about box rise and just had to say something funny and that line just hit me thats all.

as for the box rise problem you do have a few tricks you can do.

  1. play with fill. i know it sounds odd but i have seen 1ohm change in rise do only to the adding and removing of fill.
  2. round all the corners in the box the pockets trap sound waves and add reverb this will almost always force a rise in ohm load. as well as make boxes a lot more peeky making a good sub sound bad
  3. vent location in respect to the subs location
  4. build a T-line type wave guide box with help a lot with rise but take a lot more room
  5. flare ports and lower vent velocity.

this is just a few things i do day in day out

Socal based free lance installer / custom box builder

Those should all be a given when building a box lmao

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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i'm sorry about my first post lol i was reading in to his level of worry about box rise and just had to say something funny and that line just hit me thats all.

as for the box rise problem you do have a few tricks you can do.

  1. play with fill. i know it sounds odd but i have seen 1ohm change in rise do only to the adding and removing of fill.
  2. round all the corners in the box the pockets trap sound waves and add reverb this will almost always force a rise in ohm load. as well as make boxes a lot more peeky making a good sub sound bad
  3. vent location in respect to the subs location
  4. build a T-line type wave guide box with help a lot with rise but take a lot more room
  5. flare ports and lower vent velocity.

this is just a few things i do day in day out

Socal based free lance installer / custom box builder

Those should all be a given when building a box lmao

True but if he is new to the game maybe he don't know that just a simple list nothing more

list of past Records

The Beasty (94 explorer)

152.3db best it did before it was flipped on the freeway

the power

4 ORG Fi BTL's 15's

4 Stetsom 6K5E - 2 Ohm amps

8 xs power D2400's

3 mechman alts

The Toy Box (08 Scion XB)

all new project started 9/11/13

c-piller wall 2 maybe 3 15's

very low budget fighting cancer right now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm sorry about my first post lol i was reading in to his level of worry about box rise and just had to say something funny and that line just hit me thats all.

as for the box rise problem you do have a few tricks you can do.

  • play with fill. i know it sounds odd but i have seen 1ohm change in rise do only to the adding and removing of fill.
  • round all the corners in the box the pockets trap sound waves and add reverb this will almost always force a rise in ohm load. as well as make boxes a lot more peeky making a good sub sound bad
  • vent location in respect to the subs location
  • build a T-line type wave guide box with help a lot with rise but take a lot more room
  • flare ports and lower vent velocity.
this is just a few things i do day in day out

Socal based free lance installer / custom box builder

Those should all be a given when building a box lmao

True but if he is new to the game maybe he don't know that just a simple list nothing more
I think I'm going to start keeping a journal and writing all the info down that I get from this forum.
On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Lol I'm not making a book for sale, personal use ^o^

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just be careful what you write down. There is a lot of info around here that is WRONG!

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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