Painting Interior

[genesis]

sem is ok, but ive found its scratch resistance to be subpar. I would recommend adhesion promoter as well!

[79 cutty]

sem is ok, but ive found its scratch resistance to be subpar. I would recommend adhesion promoter as well!

Did you take the time to prep it per their instructions? I have found numerous people who complain about that, but turns out they didn't take the time to prep the pieces as they should be. You need to clean the hell out of them, and if done properly it will last and is very scratch resistant. But the prep is VERY important to the outcome.

[bbeljefe]

↑ I couldn't just like that post... it wasn't enough. ↑

You can buy the absolute best quality paint man has ever made and if you put it on a dirty surface.... it will fall off. Or you can do a proper prep job and shoot it with a $.099 buzz bomb and it'll last.

[79 cutty]

↑ I couldn't just like that post... it wasn't enough. ↑

You can buy the absolute best quality paint man has ever made and if you put it on a dirty surface.... it will fall off. Or you can do a proper prep job and shoot it with a $.099 buzz bomb and it'll last.

Funny how many people never really understand that! Not only will the paint bond better with a properly prepped piece, will look better in the end and will last longer!

[genesis]

sem is ok, but ive found its scratch resistance to be subpar. I would recommend adhesion promoter as well!

Did you take the time to prep it per their instructions? I have found numerous people who complain about that, but turns out they didn't take the time to prep the pieces as they should be. You need to clean the hell out of them, and if done properly it will last and is very scratch resistant. But the prep is VERY important to the outcome.

absolutely. we degreased the pieces, dyed them the final color (black) using rit dye, cleaned them again, lightly scuffed (red scotch bright), re-dyed, cleaned, tack cloth, then 3 coats of adhesion promoter, then 3 coats of paint. plain and simple, this stuff isnt all that scratch proof. it WILL withstand minor scratching on low traffic areas like a dash bezel, but if you think you are going to have long lasting results on, say, sill panels.. think again. on the plus side, it is stupid easy to touch up when it does get gouged.

[79 cutty]

sem is ok, but ive found its scratch resistance to be subpar. I would recommend adhesion promoter as well!

Did you take the time to prep it per their instructions? I have found numerous people who complain about that, but turns out they didn't take the time to prep the pieces as they should be. You need to clean the hell out of them, and if done properly it will last and is very scratch resistant. But the prep is VERY important to the outcome.

absolutely. we degreased the pieces, dyed them the final color (black) using rit dye, cleaned them again, lightly scuffed (red scotch bright), re-dyed, cleaned, tack cloth, then 3 coats of adhesion promoter, then 3 coats of paint. plain and simple, this stuff isnt all that scratch proof. it WILL withstand minor scratching on low traffic areas like a dash bezel, but if you think you are going to have long lasting results on, say, sill panels.. think again. on the plus side, it is stupid easy to touch up when it does get gouged.

Agreed, it isn't going to stand up to gouging, but what interior dye or paint would?

[bbeljefe]

Maybe I'm confused about what was dyed with Rit but it's my understanding that Rit dyes are for cloth and other porous materials... and plastic isn't porous.

Are you saying you died the cloth pieces and then used adhesion promoter to prime the plastic ones?

[genesis]

sem is ok, but ive found its scratch resistance to be subpar. I would recommend adhesion promoter as well!

Did you take the time to prep it per their instructions? I have found numerous people who complain about that, but turns out they didn't take the time to prep the pieces as they should be. You need to clean the hell out of them, and if done properly it will last and is very scratch resistant. But the prep is VERY important to the outcome.

absolutely. we degreased the pieces, dyed them the final color (black) using rit dye, cleaned them again, lightly scuffed (red scotch bright), re-dyed, cleaned, tack cloth, then 3 coats of adhesion promoter, then 3 coats of paint. plain and simple, this stuff isnt all that scratch proof. it WILL withstand minor scratching on low traffic areas like a dash bezel, but if you think you are going to have long lasting results on, say, sill panels.. think again. on the plus side, it is stupid easy to touch up when it does get gouged.

Agreed, it isn't going to stand up to gouging, but what interior dye or paint would?

I agree.. which is why I said what I did.

[genesis]

Maybe I'm confused about what was dyed with Rit but it's my understanding that Rit dyes are for cloth and other porous materials... and plastic isn't porous.

Are you saying you died the cloth pieces and then used adhesion promoter to prime the plastic ones?

no, I would never rit dye cloth. rit dye is used as a base coat more or less. I assure you "soft touch" rubberized plastic (seen very often in newer cars, often on either door armrests, handbars and other often touched pieces)is quite porous, and takes to dye very willingly. even on harder plastics, when mixed with hot water, the dye WILL color it, although not to a severe extent. as I said.. a base coat. that way when it DOES get scratched, the underlying plastic is not a vastly different color as the paint. of course, id personally recommend just upholstering most pieces, as I feel its a better way, if time and budget allows.

note: my most recent color changing sem experience was on a 22008 tundra, with a customer on a "ballin on a budget mentality". your vehicle's plastic and your experience may differ.

[79 cutty]

Maybe I'm confused about what was dyed with Rit but it's my understanding that Rit dyes are for cloth and other porous materials... and plastic isn't porous.

Are you saying you died the cloth pieces and then used adhesion promoter to prime the plastic ones?

no, I would never rit dye cloth. rit dye is used as a base coat more or less. I assure you "soft touch" rubberized plastic (seen very often in newer cars, often on either door armrests, handbars and other often touched pieces)is quite porous, and takes to dye very willingly. even on harder plastics, when mixed with hot water, the dye WILL color it, although not to a severe extent. as I said.. a base coat. that way when it DOES get scratched, the underlying plastic is not a vastly different color as the paint. of course, id personally recommend just upholstering most pieces, as I feel its a better way, if time and budget allows.

note: my most recent color changing sem experience was on a 22008 tundra, with a customer on a "ballin on a budget mentality". your vehicle's plastic and your experience may differ.

I would tend to agree that if possible, if done properly and if done in a location you can get away with it that upholstering usually ends up looking better. I haven't personally dyed any newer cars plastic. I could see how that soft plastic such as newer yukons and suburbans and such have may lead to some headaches. But minus gouges of course, every time I have used SEM and prepped properly....usually going overboard to ensure the prep is good enough, the pieces have held up very well. There is the occasional scratch, but never deep enough to scratch through the new color.