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ive been looking hard as fuck at these for my next car but If I did it Id want a 13 coupe and with a toddler that aint happening.

Me too n8ball, but it have to be the cts-v..

I figure by the time Im willing to spend pocket cash on one (no loans) it will 10-12 years old and have about 150k for the mileage! lol....

Nivram, Tap off rear subwoofer signal is your best bet, thats what Ive done when I put a couple boxes in my seville sts, the one box which was a 4th order for 2 sa-12s on a 4500 ported thru the factory bose sub hole.

If your planning on adding a 4channel plus the sub stage, Id still grab the stock sub wires for sub amp input, and the rear doors for the 4 channel since those are fulll range, iirc yours is like mine where the front doors are midbass, and wouldnt give you a decent signal.

Ive tried numerous line output converters, and they all clipped to the max, even with the knobs turned all the way down!

Steve blessed me with a prototype HLC-1 which was distortion/clipping free and gave me up to 10.1-10.3 volts of output signal.

Unfortunately I dont think these have been released yet, so if you where wanting something decent, Id look to some sort of processor, rf360.3, jbl ms-8, bit1, bit 10, etc.

But make sure whatever you buy has autosensing turn on, and remote out. I cant recall 100% right now, but im pretty sure everything is canbus in that car, which means the radio turns on by a data signal and not applying 12volts to it. So it maybe hard to find a true ignition source to tap into for remote otherwise.

 

 

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Thanks Audiofanaticz for the detailed description of how to get my RCA signal.

I'm not as much worried about remote for I figure a wire from battery to switch then into amp will work just fine.

I have alot of homework to do. Last thing I need is to screw my electrical on this thing.

I will try and get more pictures and whatnot tomorrow of the car and factory components . I don't care if its not hitting 150db but I would like a lil somthing.

Maybe next summer I plan on plasti dipping it hot pink and tinting it out, for the bitties love pink ;)

Walled 2002 buick century A.K.A "Betty sue"

polk 5 1/2 front doors

4 3in pillar speakers

DD 3518's

AQ 3500 v2

90ft of 0/1 ga

tuned to 40hz

:build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/162721-buick-built-in-trunk-fi-sp4-hifonics-2400/

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To be honest I have no clue. Just got the car this afternoon havnt even put gas in it yet.

Walled 2002 buick century A.K.A "Betty sue"

polk 5 1/2 front doors

4 3in pillar speakers

DD 3518's

AQ 3500 v2

90ft of 0/1 ga

tuned to 40hz

:build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/162721-buick-built-in-trunk-fi-sp4-hifonics-2400/

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Okay I picked up a line output converter to pull the signal from the factory sub. I'm also considering trying to install an iPod connect.

I still have more research to do on how to go about iPod /iPhone connect but I don't want to use the tape with the aux wire on the end because I've never had good luck with them.

I'm sold on the single 18 in the trunk. Still have to figure out if port through deck will be most efficient . Still in planning stages

Walled 2002 buick century A.K.A "Betty sue"

polk 5 1/2 front doors

4 3in pillar speakers

DD 3518's

AQ 3500 v2

90ft of 0/1 ga

tuned to 40hz

:build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/162721-buick-built-in-trunk-fi-sp4-hifonics-2400/

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I run a Stinger iSimple in my caddy, I lose the ability to use my cd changer in the center console however. But that lose of 6 cd's with 17-20songs each vs having any size ipod or iphone and being able to control it thru my radio, and steering wheel controls is well worth it.

Only thing that is a drawback is the plugs that you plug into your ipod seemed to fail after about 6 months and a couple wires came undone. However I was able to open the plug, resolder the wires, and glue the plastic covers closed again and its been fine for almost a year since id say.

 

 

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