Bboytaktix's 2011 Subaru STI Modest SQ build

[DJ_Stubbs]

Looks pretty damn good man.
I need to do somthing like that for my amps but its tough.

How are your gains setup? on your amps. Maybe turn your amps up a little and turn loudness down. ive never liked loudness.

[BboyTaktix]

Looks pretty damn good man.

I need to do somthing like that for my amps but its tough.

How are your gains setup? on your amps. Maybe turn your amps up a little and turn loudness down. ive never liked loudness.

aah damn thanks man! can't wait to finish it! the fitment/cutting the MDF to fit perfect is the pain, then wrapping isn't hard but all takes time. I used to hate loudness on my other head unit too, would cause fucked up shit to happen...but on my pioneer it seems to make things better. My amp gain is almost all the way up (like just past 3/4) and my 4-channel gain is at like less than half for front components and maybe 1/3 for rear speakers, which is what I don't get..there's like NO bass with loudness off and EQ flat. sounds cold and boring. Weird. And I like triple checked my amp settings too. low pass filter is good, so is subsonic filter...and the signal voltage input also seems to be right...so I just don't know.

[DJ_Stubbs]

Hmm thats weird. and i just noticed theres no port? Why not!?! I would turn down your amps gain atleast to half, and then maybe turn up the loudness. i wouldnt use loudness at all.
And if you can its nice to set the hz for the sub up to atleast 50-80hz. i have mine halfway so around 80 or so.
I dont really use bass boost or loudness.

[BboyTaktix]

Hmm thats weird. and i just noticed theres no port? Why not!?! I would turn down your amps gain atleast to half, and then maybe turn up the loudness. i wouldnt use loudness at all.

And if you can its nice to set the hz for the sub up to atleast 50-80hz. i have mine halfway so around 80 or so.

I dont really use bass boost or loudness.

yeah I also find it weird. My low pass filter for the sub (on the amp) is set to about 80Hz. I wouldn't use the loudness if I didn't have to but honestly with loudness off I can barely hear the sub. I'll continue to play with the settings, maybe I'll find something on my mono amp that would help but I doubt it, as I have messed with the settings at least 5-6 times already.

[BboyTaktix]

and as for port, I opted to go sealed for this setup. Reason being is that this sub only requires 0.75 cu.ft sealed ( I built my box to about 0.9-0.95 cu.ft) as opposed to a 1.75 cu.ft. requirement for a ported box, which would take up more room than I really wanted. Plus the sealed box was relatively easy to build and I never had a sealed box before, decided I'd try it out and see how I liked it, worst case I build another box that is ported if I didn't like it. So far I am enjoying it.

Now, I am going to Baltimore for work next week which is a good excuse for me to order and ship some stuff to the office there so I can bring it back and it will be cheaper shipping plus tax-free. I for sure would like to order enough 0-gauge to do the big 3 upgrade. Now, I have 3 feet of Knukonceptz KCA 0-gauge left over. Wondering how much more 0-gauge I will need? Assuming 3 feet for power wire (alt. to amp) with fuse holder with a 250A fuse for that power wire, plus another ground from alt bracket bolt to ground (engine to ground) and the third which is battery to ground (I could probably use the 3ft leftover 0-gauge for this one). So maybe 3 feet power and 4 feet ground? Also may order a battery as well (kinetik hc1400 seems appropriate) as it will be much cheaper there.

[scooter99]

I like all that you're doing. It's looking good.

I have a few suggestions for you, take them as you want.

1 - on the hardware you got, those threaded inserts, you're most likely going to hate life when you try and take them out. My suggestion would be, before too long, take those out and either use some CA-glue, or some of the pl adhesive, or something like that and adhere them to the wood. If not, you're most likely going to have issues down the line with them spinning if you ever try to take that sub out. Another reason the other ones most likely came out. There are also other alternatives to using those inserts, and really not all hardware has to be used with the product it's sent with.

2 - Did you put any adhesive or weather stripping around the speaker terminal cup before installing it? That will cause leaks in the enclosure if not. Just curious. If you haven't I'd highly advise some foam weather stripping, cheap easy to put on, then screw it back to the enclosure. Any little leaks in these sealed enclosures will make a difference in sound.

3 - Covering. YOu really did a good job with the covering on the enclosure. I've used that stuff you used before to cover an enclosure. It's not very forgiving and it's really stiff. On the sides, an easy way to do it, is wrap all the front, bottom, back, and top parts first. Then on the sides, spray your glue on the enclosure. fold one side down, then the opposite side on top of it. Use a straight edge, and go from corner to corner and cut. Do both directions. You'll have two triange shapes attached on the enclosure and then the rest hanging off. Now take the other sides one at a time, and fold it down. Use your straight edge going from corner to corner again and basically do the same thing. You'll see the first attached pieces under these ones and most of the time you can freehand cut that line, but I'd recommend doing it with a straight edge.

When you're all done, you should have 4 triangles that meet in the middle and perfect seams. Now flip it over and do the other side.

4 - The big debate on the loud being on and off. It's really personal preference. But here's the final end all to be all. Whether it's on or off, if you have distortion in your signal, you're not going to do yourself any good. Testing by ear is ok, but not the greatest way to do things. I would highly recommend getting yourself, whether you buy one, or check and see if someone in your area has one to rent, or borrow, but i would get your hands on a DD-1 and set your stuff properly. You're really taking a chance by not doing it, and then turning on the loud on top of that.

Setting your gains is going to do a few things for you. 1, assure you of a clean signal to the highest non clipped point on your head unit. 2, give you more power at the amp with that clean signal. 3, make everything sound better because you have more power and a clean signal as well as rest your worries about clipping your equipment and risking your investment.

You may be clipping your amps already and thus straining your electrical which is probably why you're seeing the dimming lights. If you have a new battery up front, big 3 done (hopefully all 1/0ga cause I didn't see it and don't remember now), then you shouldn't see much dimming.

Also hit up Mike Singer and see if he has an alt for your vehicle. Mechman, while good, is not the end all to be all of alternators. There's a few out there, although I personally recommend Singer.

The last thing I would highly suggest is getting yourself a good processor. You're going to do yourself a lot more good, with your investment by being able to tune it all properly and that does not mean on the amps. You can do it that way, but a processor is going to help you get much further. Just my experience. Since you seem to like the JBL products, I'd look into something like the MS8. Good processor, should be reasonably priced by now and from what I understand it's pretty easy to work.

SQ is a tricky thing. Been there, done that. Too much involved with it for my liking. I love the end result, but just a lot of work for that crisp clean live type sound.

Sorry for the long post, but I saw an opportunity to help a fellow member, so I thought I'd throw those things out there.

It's a great start! Keep up the good work man!

[BboyTaktix]

I like all that you're doing. It's looking good.

I have a few suggestions for you, take them as you want.

1 - on the hardware you got, those threaded inserts, you're most likely going to hate life when you try and take them out. My suggestion would be, before too long, take those out and either use some CA-glue, or some of the pl adhesive, or something like that and adhere them to the wood. If not, you're most likely going to have issues down the line with them spinning if you ever try to take that sub out. Another reason the other ones most likely came out. There are also other alternatives to using those inserts, and really not all hardware has to be used with the product it's sent with.

Totally agree and I should have thought about that beforehand. I figured they would stick well in the MDF. Next time I take the sub out (if I do) I will PL them in the holes to prevent them from moving.

2 - Did you put any adhesive or weather stripping around the speaker terminal cup before installing it? That will cause leaks in the enclosure if not. Just curious. If you haven't I'd highly advise some foam weather stripping, cheap easy to put on, then screw it back to the enclosure. Any little leaks in these sealed enclosures will make a difference in sound.

I did! I put PL premium around the outside edge of the terminal cup to seal it. I put a decent amount and it fit tight in the hole I drilled for it so I assume it is not leaking. If need be I can open up the box and silicon everything again but I feel I did a pretty good job getting the PL premium into all the corners to seal the box well.

curious though as to how well these terminal cups pass power through to the speaker wire inside the box? I'm assuming it will do the job though? I just find they look clean compared to bolting or wtv. Plus easy to remove wires and take box out of the trunk if need be.

3 - Covering. YOu really did a good job with the covering on the enclosure. I've used that stuff you used before to cover an enclosure. It's not very forgiving and it's really stiff. On the sides, an easy way to do it, is wrap all the front, bottom, back, and top parts first. Then on the sides, spray your glue on the enclosure. fold one side down, then the opposite side on top of it. Use a straight edge, and go from corner to corner and cut. Do both directions. You'll have two triange shapes attached on the enclosure and then the rest hanging off. Now take the other sides one at a time, and fold it down. Use your straight edge going from corner to corner again and basically do the same thing. You'll see the first attached pieces under these ones and most of the time you can freehand cut that line, but I'd recommend doing it with a straight edge.

When you're all done, you should have 4 triangles that meet in the middle and perfect seams. Now flip it over and do the other side.

thanks! it was my first time, and I did do the front and sides first, but your idea for doing the sides seems like a great idea and one I will definitely use the next time I cover a box. I was lucky that this particular carpeting was a bit stretchy and not too stiff, so it helped, especially to cover the amp cover panel.

4 - The big debate on the loud being on and off. It's really personal preference. But here's the final end all to be all. Whether it's on or off, if you have distortion in your signal, you're not going to do yourself any good. Testing by ear is ok, but not the greatest way to do things. I would highly recommend getting yourself, whether you buy one, or check and see if someone in your area has one to rent, or borrow, but i would get your hands on a DD-1 and set your stuff properly. You're really taking a chance by not doing it, and then turning on the loud on top of that.

Yeah, I really want a DD-1 but they cost about $210 shipped to Canada. I also posted in the Tools map thread to see if anyone local has one and that's a no-go. Nobody locally has one as far as I know. Wish I could borrow one. I have been debating it, but I don't have room in my budget for $210.00 DD-1 plus $200.00 battery plus $50.00 wiring for big-3 plus $250-400 alternator = $700-900.00!!! This was supposed to be more of a kind of budget build (despite the $450.00 sub lol); use the stuff I could reuse from my last car and just get some high quality equipment for whatever was missing.

Setting your gains is going to do a few things for you. 1, assure you of a clean signal to the highest non clipped point on your head unit. 2, give you more power at the amp with that clean signal. 3, make everything sound better because you have more power and a clean signal as well as rest your worries about clipping your equipment and risking your investment.

agree 100% hence me wanting a DD-1

You may be clipping your amps already and thus straining your electrical which is probably why you're seeing the dimming lights. If you have a new battery up front, big 3 done (hopefully all 1/0ga cause I didn't see it and don't remember now), then you shouldn't see much dimming.

I'm sure I am straining my electrical at higher volumes but I only turned it up 2-3 times to see how loud it went before dimming. I listen to it around 1/3 of the head unit's volume when I'm alone and driving (except at stoplights I turn it down a bit) and when I have a passenger even less. Don't want to blast it excessively and wear anything.

Also hit up Mike Singer and see if he has an alt for your vehicle. Mechman, while good, is not the end all to be all of alternators. There's a few out there, although I personally recommend Singer.

good call. I did not realize stinger made alts for my car (maybe, I hope!) and the cheapest DC power alternator is $449, which I can't really justify spending for the equipment I'm running.

The last thing I would highly suggest is getting yourself a good processor. You're going to do yourself a lot more good, with your investment by being able to tune it all properly and that does not mean on the amps. You can do it that way, but a processor is going to help you get much further. Just my experience. Since you seem to like the JBL products, I'd look into something like the MS8. Good processor, should be reasonably priced by now and from what I understand it's pretty easy to work.

it's funny becaue I have actually looked into that. It's about $499 right now (plus shipping etc) which isn't all that bad. I have even read through the instructions to see how it works out of curiosity and it does seem quite interesting in terms of functionality. Unfortunately, this will have to wait, I am running low on funds right now for car audio. Need to prioritize a bit and figure out which components are most important on my list, I think battery upgrade/big three should be top priority for my next purchase.

SQ is a tricky thing. Been there, done that. Too much involved with it for my liking. I love the end result, but just a lot of work for that crisp clean live type sound.

Yeah, doing research into SQ has surprised me a bit, which is why I posted this as a more 'modest' sq build...basically not going for big SPL or high numbers but want decent daily driving quality. I'm not incredibly picky (least not yet) but I would like to have a nice clean all-around system. I don't want to fall into the 'true sq, never-ending tuning' routine that most TRUE SQ builds/builders fall into. My true concern for this car is all-around fun, and I need to get some performance mods done as well soon!! lol

Sorry for the long post, but I saw an opportunity to help a fellow member, so I thought I'd throw those things out there.

It's a great start! Keep up the good work man!

I VERY MUCH appreciate you taking the time to read through my thread and give the suggestions that you did. It's funny but I think we are both on the same page for most of what you brought up, for me it's more of a budgeting issue, since I know I can't have it all, and I need to know where to stop as well, since this isn't your typical audio-only car, and my goals are not purely audio. If only I wer rich-er haha I could get all of this done and in a timely manner. For now, taking it step-by-step and doing what I can. I'm surprised I got this far so soon actually.

also feel free to post on my responses too if you have any input on what I brought up!!! thanks again, you are all really helpful!

[BboyTaktix]

Think I may have figured out my issue, loudness may not be required after all... Ive been taking my kawasaki ninja to work these past few days so no chance to test my theory. Will update once I figure it out!

[BboyTaktix]

also, another update: just ordered some SkyHigh car audio 0-gauge OFC wire and terminals to do the big 3 upgrade. Funds do not permit me to upgrade the battery at this point, but at least the big 3 will be done in 0-gauge and ready for a nice battery. Thinking either an XS power D1200 or a KHC1400 to replace the stock battery under the hood eventually.

[BboyTaktix]

Nope didn't figure out the issue. There is literally like no bass when loudness is turned to OFF. This is really starting to piss me off, I'd rather not use loudness if I can avoid it. This sub should be POUNDING even at low/medium volumes...I don't get it. Driving up north tonight so I can finish amp rack cover tomorrow, gonna get the DMM out and try to diagnose the issue.

Could a bad RCA connection cause low signal maybe? My grounds should be pretty damn solid (as you can see from the pics), especially since my 4-ch is grounded right beside the mono amp ground and the speakers are getting loud as fuck.