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Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'power'.
Found 16 results
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Hey I have seen people fit d3400's under the hoods of 2002 chevy blazers and can someone give me a little advice. I already modded the battery tray so it sits better but the chords don't seem long enough. Can I use the battery while it is laying on its side or what make a bar to put the leads on. Any help would be appreciated thanks -
does anybody know what the primary and secondary column under wattage means on the xs wattage chart? -
ok im new here but im not new to the sub world ok im looking into putting a sundown sa-12 d4 or d2 but heres my problem i got about 700 bucks for my full system after the the sub and box im going to have 400 still need a head unit wiring and an amp i have full alpine type r componet speakers form my old whip but nothing else can i get some opinions on what amp and should i go with the 2 ohm or the 4 ohm dvc sa-12?
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My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.
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Here's the run down so you'll can give me the best opinion. I drive a 2006 F-150 XLT 4.6 (V8) crew cab. Stock 125 amp alt. I plan on replacing my battery soon and I'm gonna try and convince the 'rents' to buy a better battery than the ones you buy from Ford. I'm tore between getting a XS Power and Kinetik battery. I have no idea what size I need. So your opinion on what size and brand would be wonderful. This isn't 'vs.' thread just a 'suggestion and opinion thread' since I know you'll hate the 'vs.' threads. I also am about to rebuild my system which be consisting of an Orion HCCA 12.2 with 2500 watts pushing towards. I added that just in case it might change your suggestion on size. Sorry for this being long just want the basic run down to get the best opinions. Thanx! -
I know i can use a power cell battery as a replacement battery for my vehicle but what I need to know is if it is safe like a dry cell battery to hook up or do i need to do specific different steps? -
looking to upgrade my battery under hood of a 2005 Elantra anything with at least 110AH and 1000+ CA preferably kinetik or xs power wanna stay under the $250 mark. Thanks
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I'm replacing the power and ground in my car to 0 awg and plan on doing the big three upgrade too. I'm on the fence on choosing which brand to buy though. EXO from YouTube talks Audio Technix so I checked there site and I am guessing 20 feet will be enough to run from the battery to the back seat and maybe the big three too. But I can get 20 feet of 0 awg power wire from Audio Technix for $70 but I also did some looking around and found Cadence 0 gauge on AudioSavings which is $50 for 25 feet. I just wanna buy the right stuff. Help.
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I needed a wiring kit to power my amps that I am getting. I had been talking to Tony for a week or two and he was a huge help with getting it figured out what I needed based on the setup I'm going to run. I am very pleased with the quality of his products and will be purchasing from him again! I didn't really have a clue what I needed as far as wiring and didn't want to go with a regular kit for this reason. He guided me through the process via email, responding multiple times a day, and we got it figured out. I ordered the kit last Friday, and received it in the mail on Monday; he has great turnaround time and fast service. Nobody beats CE Auto Electric Supply as far as quality and knowledge goes! Here is the custom kit he put together for me: 20 feet 4 gauge power cable w/ ring terminal installed 2, 3 foot 8 gauge power leads w/ ring terminals installed 2, 4 foot 8 gauge ground leads w/ ring terminals installed 4 feet split wire loom 1 rockford maxi fuse holder 1 fused distribution block 80 amp, and 2 30 amp fuses 1 wire grommet On to the pics! Thanks a bunch! I HIGHLY recommend purchasing your electrical equipment from him! He already knows that I will be ordering again here shortly -
I have a 2018 f150, want to run skar 2000.1 and 150.4. I am wiring the mono to 2 ohms for 1400 watts. Also have a 20 ah battery going in the back. Is this enough or do I need electrical upgrades. I believe I have a 220a alternator
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I have recently gotten a sundown audio zv4 15" d2. I'm looking for an amp that will power it along with a secondary battery and then the best way to build a box to go into a Toyota Corolla trunk Whether it's sub port back, sub back port back etc What are some great amp brands that will rms 2000-3500 watts and sustain play It can be bang for buck or bigger price range Also would a aero port be better or regular port space wise and effiecency wise Thank you very much
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Would it be ok if i put a xs3100d in the trunk of my car? Would my alt be able to supply enough power for the 2 batteries? Also is is ok to have a smaller battery in front and a bigger one in the back? I would like to just put a 3400d in the trunk also instead of the 3100d if that would be enough power. -
1/0 AWG / Zero gauge cable sale !!
MECHMAN posted a topic in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
We have a limited quantity of high quality hyperflex cable on sale for just $79 per 50 foot spool !! It has the same soft-touch, ultra flexible jacket as all the popular brands, and is a TRUE zero gauge cable with over 4,700 ultra fine strands. We also offer it by the foot for just $1.75 per foot, and can professionally crimp and seal ring terminals on the ends for just $2 per end! This sale is good only while supplies last, currently we have White, Blue, Black and Red cable in stock. If you have any questions feel free to call 1-888-MECHMAN or email [email protected] or visit http://mechman.com/ -
I have one Rockford Fosgate 12" T0, model # T0D412, that I bought several months ago. I decided to just buy a pre fab ported box and there was always port noise at most lower frequencies. It has finally bugged me to the point where I'm building my own box. Any ideas or dimensions other than the one recommended in the manual? Since I only have one sub, I'd prefer a ported or 4th order bandpass type enclosure for the most bang for my buck.
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I'll keep this short since I don't want to be wasting anyone's time. But after attempting the design of a 6th order where I could have the ports come up through the rear deck of my 98' accord coupe. I've realised that I've just become too short on time in my daily life to worry about constructing an enclosure. (back story) However, I've noticed that most prefabbed enclosures out there are rated at 1ohm and always have too high of a watt rms. I have plans to install a high output alternator in my accord this thursday, taking it from a measly 80amp to the one from an odyssey from the same generation which outputs 132 amps (I dont use a lot of features like heated seats and defrost which come equipped with the car so maybe that should save some amperage in the system). Because even right now. My system which consists of a set of CT Sounds Meso Components in the front (75rms@4ohm x 2). With my pioneer headunit. And a Dayton Audio max-x10" (350rms@4ohmx1). Being ran off of a Pioneer GM-DX975. Is too taxing for the system, as I find myself from one second hearing no sound, to it then blasting after I've cranked it up while low. (question at hand) With the new Alternator. I think this should allow me to run a system up to about 1000w without having any voltage issues. I've already upgraded the group 24 battery to a group 34 lead acid (before I heard about AGM's). So subtracting the components which take a maximum of 150wrms. That leave me with 750-800wrms for a prefab sub enclosure. I also intend to run the subs off of a Pioneer GM-D9701 (500w@4ohms, 800w@2ohms, 1200w@1ohm) If anyone has any suggests. That would be greatly appreciated. Options I've considered have been the Skar SDR-1X18D2, and CT Sounds TROPO-2X10D4 (however this one demands 1300w). I prioritize SQ/SQL over SPL as I dont typically find myself enjoying "one hit wonders". But if someone suggests "buy these subwoofers, wire them like x, and put them in this prefab" I would be very open to that aswell. Sorry for asking, I just figured I should ask the experts before scraping the idea as a whole.
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Ok, so some our Team Sundown guys got their NS-1's and clamped them on a resistor...this basically means there's no rise the resistor pack used for this test is 0.7 ohms Power supply 8 Stinger SP 2150's resting at 12.9v measured 80 volts 114 amps voltage drop 11,8v Power: 9120 watts guys said the amps is a beast in terms of low impedance stability, stayed cool the whole time the vid Effficiency 984 Amps of draw at 11,8 volts 78% efficiency at 0.7 ohms is damn good
