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  1. Hey Guys! I am in need of some help inconnection with my battery connection. So at one point it occurred to me, when I played from my batteries only, one is taking more time to recharge than the other. It seemed to me, that the balance between them is equal(I think I was wrong), so I decided to investigate. I know that battery one takes the more "beat" than it should, because it takes 4-6 hours to recharge opposite to battery two which is only taking 1-2 hours, when placed on a charger. I also put on a test tone to see what is up, and started clamping for some amperage measurements. By this I found out battery one is providing 16X MORE amps than battery two. So here is the deal. I do not know what causes this problem, because I have 0 AWG copper wires, and I have 15 inches of wire between batteries counter to 4 feet between the batteries and the amplifier, so I don't think it is the wires. What I could come up with as a solution is to get a dual 1/0 to 1/0 power and ground input for the amplifier for balance purposes. Do you think it will help? Or is it just a waste of money? If you have any solutions/ideas please share it!! Thank you in advance!
  2. Alright so lets go ahead and get right to the point, i have a 01 Toyota Camry and it has a 90 amp alternator and a stock battery, well brand new but just a regular o'reilys battery. and i did the big 3. Im planning to stick with stock alt and stock battery, so i'm stuck trying to decide what amp to go with, i have 2 skar audio ddx-12's and currently have the good old trusty (audio bahn fire amp) on them right now. I have narrowed my choices down to 3 amps, ill order in them in favoritism. 1. skar audio rp1500.1d 2. soundqubed s1-1250 3. skar audio rp1200.1d. what amp would work best with the power i have currently, and non rev matching either, just good ole idle power. All comments appreciative lol.
  3. I've read though out all the forms and have yet to find a match for what I'm doing. Here's my set-up.....I have a upgraded alternator, upgraded battery under the hood, and 2 BIG ASS batteries in the trunk, 2 kicker 2500.1 and 2 kicker 650.4. My vehicle is roughly 20 feet long from bumper to bumper so I have purchased 75 ft each of 0 gauge positive and negative wire. My question is, what would be the best way to wire my positive and negative wire? I have dual 3-outlets for the 0 gauge to run off my battery under the hood, and I will be installing the big 3. Would it be best to run the remaining 0 gauge ground from the hood battery straight to the back or just run my ground for the battery's in the back from the frame, through the trunk of my vehicle.
  4. How many batteries, alternators, does a system need to run properly? Is their an equation to calculate what you need, what type of batteries, what size alternator you need? For example i'm going to get 2 9512's by digital designs and also an m3b by digital designs. Im just seeing if anybody actually knows.
  5. I have an XS D7500 Battery that I am trying to get rid of. It's been sitting in the garage and I don't use it. I fully charged it on the XS Power battery charger a few weeks ago and its currently resting at 12.7V - 12.8V. $500 shipped and it's yours, thanks for looking! ? (If you are local in the Denver area and I don't have to ship it, I will give you a better deal!)
  6. wondering if anyone knows of a fuse holder that accepts 2 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out???? and where to get cheap fuse holders for 1/0 I wouldn't mind having the mounting as ring terminals my current set up uses them im just putting another run of 1/0 so I need to upgrade
  7. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  8. Hello all, Joined this forum way back when I had my first car (2001 civic 4-door), noob build in there and learned a lot, then a much better build in my 2009 cobalt base model, but recently traded that in for a car I've always wanted, 2011 Subaru STI. Took my equipment from my cobalt but not everything is going into the STI. Bought it slightly used (only 30k kilometers on the odo) I have changed over the years, I am no longer a huge audiophile I once was but still appreciate a very nice system. I am going for strictly SQ build but with a good punch to it and can get decently loud. I had some other members answer pretty much all the questions I had in another thread, so thanks for the info!!! Well first off, here's some pics of the car when I first picked it up from the dealer; After I gave it a full detail and some debadging; Now, onto the audio goodies. The rear speakers in my cobalt were 6x9 but the STI has 6.5 in the rear doors so the 6x9 are for sale and had to order some 6.5 for the rear doors. Also, my JBL GTO 1214D subs in my vented enclosure are just way too big for my trunk, I want trunk space, especially if I want to hear up north with friends for a weekend of skiing, so I want at least one side of fold-down seats available to me. Here is the list of what will be going in the STI; HEAD UNIT: Pioneer x850BT (bought it new for the STI) Harness: SVDX's (David) harness for subaru (ae64.com) Other: Metra Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control harness Front: JBL P660c components (from last build) Rear: JBL P662 "fillers" (Ordered, on their way) 4ch AMP: JBL GTO1004 4-channel amp (150RMSx4 at 2ohm, from last build) SUB: JBL W10GTI (about to order today ) in sealed 0.75 cubic foot box Mono AMP: Clarion DPX11551 (1550wRMS at 2-ohm or 850wRMS at 4-ohm, from last build) SUB BOX: custom made by me ELECTRICAL: knukonceptz KCA 1/0-gauge power kit, Karma SS 4-ch RCA cable Chose the W10GTI because I've always wanted the GTI series subs and after doing research, most said it's a very solid and well-rounded sub. Also, my amp should be perfect for it, hooked up at 3-ohm it should put out around 1000-1200RMS which should be more than enough. FIRST UPDATE: First thing I ordered and installed was the head unit and install accessories. The install went pretty smooth. I got the ASWC harness as well to keep steering wheel controls functional with the new head unit. I also got the JDM STI bezel that perfectly contours the double din screen (shipped straight from japan!) I decided the JDM bezel was too bland so I cf-wrapped it to make it pop a bit more. PICS; Soldered and shrink-wrapped all connections; all connected and taped up (for the most part): Carbon-wrapped dash trim; Installed, with my custom "subaru STI" splash screen I designed;
  9. Whats up people, I have an opportunity to get a new deka 9a31 or used kinetik khc2000 for the exact same price of $150. Which is a better option for me? 2 type x 12s Type R Interiors Mrp M2000 Mrp F450 Power Acoustik 710nb HU PA 7 band EQ Big 3 1/0 gauge ran back Stock alternator Looking to replace backup battery in trunk due to voltage drop.
  10. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  11. My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.
  12. What is the general community consensus on the use of welding cabe instead of cable sold for car audio? I can get 1/0 OFC 105deg rated welding cable of about 3.26 a foot but i can only get 1/0 sold for car audio for about 11.50 a foot(this is from a trusted shop that would not screw me I think). Is there something Im missing here like the only disadvantage is weding cable will not be as flexabule. thank you for your time
  13. I now Present my 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Speed Manual Link to the UBL of the Build <-------, this thread since 10/3 is used for commenting Note: Pictures in This First Post are Dated, and More Building Goes on Throughout the Thread, Enjoy! Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD (Parking Brake Bypass, Aux 1: Turn-on From Remote, Aux 2: Automatic Amp Turn off on Remote Start and Manually) Axxess Interface Steering Wheel Control Module Speakers: Full Active Setup - No Passive Crossovers Kicker QS65.2 Components (Front Door) Kicker QS65.2 Components (2nd Front Door) Kicker QS65.2 Components (Rear Doors) Kicker QS60.2 Components (Rear window Speakers) Sundown SA-12 (Sub 1) Sundown SA-12 (Sub 2) Total: 2 Subs , 8 Speakers, 8 Tweets Amps: Kicker 10ZX2500.1 2845 RMS (Sub Amp) Kicker 10ZX650.4 (Tweet Amp) Kicker 11ZX650.4 750 RMS (Right Side Mids) Kicker 11ZX650.4 679 RMS (Left Side Mids) Total: 4 Amps Power: Mechman Alternator Candy Red, 220 Amp Max, 120 Idle (Tested Output) Electron Beam 2/0 (2+ runs, 1 - Run) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kolossus Flex OFC Wire (- Wire Run and Alt wires to front battery) 4 Gauge KNU Kolossus Flex (Tweet + Mid Amps Power) XS Power D3400 AGM Battery (Rear) XS Power D3100 AGM Battery (Front) XS Power Intellecharger 12v Charger (Built into the Vehicle) Signal: Kicker KX3 3-Way Crossover (Allows Tweet Crossover Also) Kicker 03KQ30 30-Band Equalizer Kicker XW16300 300 Ft Roll 16 Gauge (Mids and Tweets Wires) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 3 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Equalizer) Kicker XI46 4 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Crossover From Equalizer) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Tweets Amp) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Right Mid Amp) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Left Mid Amp) Kicker XIYF Y-Splitter X-Series (From Crossover) Kicker XIYF Y-Splitter X-Series (From Crossover) Security: Python 592 (Same as Viper 5902 Except has a Cooler Black Remote) Flash Logic FLCAN Bypass Module (Works Perfect) DEI Shock Sensor DEI Glass Break Sensor DEI Tilt Sensor (Tells me if my car is being jacked up for the rims or towed away ) Mcgaurd Security lug nuts (you will not get my rims off with these, highly recommend this brand) Tools: DD-1 Distortion Detector Upgraded Car Parts AudioTechnix 80 Mil Sound Deadener (75 Sq Ft, 3 Rolls) Second Skin 80 Mil (Thanks Steve) Second Skin Overkill Pro (Thanks Again Steve!) Hawk HPS Brake Pads (All Around) DBA Slotted Rotors with Kangaroo Paw Cooling Technology (All Around) Hankook iPike w409 (Winter Tires) Hankook Ventus v12 evo (Summer Tires) Upgraded Throttle Body Ground (Quicker Reaction) Under Foot well Sound Reactive CCFL Lighting Advanced Timing Mod Throttle Body Bypass Mod Corksport SRI Intake Corksport LED Lighting Kit VCTS Delete Exedy Stage 1 Clutch New OEM Flywheel James Barone Balance Shaft Delete Kit James Barone Racing 88 Durometer Rear Motor Mount James Barone Racing 80 Durometer Passenger Motor Mount TRZ Transmission Mount Coil Spring Specialists Custom Rear Springs (Extra 450lbs) Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Gates Tensioner Gates Greenback Fleetrunner Belt (1/2" Shorter) Redline Transmission Fluid Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil Got this Baby on 6/21/11 and I love it! Day I first got it Wiring setup Sept 18th update pic:P Got My D3400 In Already! (Old Pic, lots of new Wiring going on now ) D3400! Subs will Fit Side By Side! Gonna Have to really work this with 4 amps and 2 15's, 8 crossovers XD THESE PICTURES DONT SHOW ALL THE EQUIPMENT, OLD PICTURES I love Kickers Stuff! Hope you will Enjoy this Build, will be doing Videos and Pictures all the way through it! I really want a Kicker Sponsorship! I decided just to go all out and go 100% Kicker Besides on Power Supplies which they don't Make! I love the Quality of there Higher end Stuff and Can't wait to make my Hair stand up on my arm!
  14. Hey need some help here I am not the most mechanically inclined person but a programmer to set my fuel economy, power and tires would help me out a lot any advice ???
  15. Does reverse mounting your sub in your bad give you more spl? I was thinking on my next box build if i should invert it, do you just screw it in backwards. Maybe screw it in regular, glue and nail it backwards? Then you could never remove it unless you screwed apart the baffle? Confused as heck
  16. Whats good SMD, So up for sale is four (4) BRAND NEW IN BOX Powerbass XTA 6000D monoblock amplifiers: 1100 shipped firm a piece...THIS IS A STEAL! NO TRADES See bottom for contact information! Reason for selling is that these are a low voltage operating amplifier 10.5-15.8v....I am looking to run multiple 16v amplifiers. Like I stated above, these amplifiers are BRAND spankin' new and have never seen power. They have been taken out of the box once to be visually inspected for condition after the shipping process to me. These amplifiers are stoopid beastly, I used to own a Sundown 4500D....This amp makes my ex-sundown seem puny and this monster actually strains you to pick it up. I paid big money for these amplifiers, over $1600 per amplifier. These amps run almost $1700 new on amazon, ebay, etc...My loss is your gain. Here are some specs: Channels (mono): 1 Output Power (14.4 V) @ 1 ohm: 6000 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 2 ohm: 3000 watts Output Power (14.4 V) @ 4 ohm: 1800 watts Strapped Output Power @ 2ohms: 12,000 watts Frequency Response: 10 Hz - 300 Hz Total Harmonic Distortion: <0.1 % S/N Ratio: >90 dB Input Sensitivity: 0.2 V - 8.0 V Dimensions (in Inches): 13.5" x 28.5" x 2.75" Enough talk..lets let the pictures do the talking! Included is the instrution manual, bass knob, mounting equipment, allen wrenches, and some decals. Please PM me if you have any further inquiries about the equipment. Please also feel free to text/call my cell phone at 570-933-2172. I am from central Pennsylvania for reference. Once again all my items for sale are shipped for free to the lower 48 states.
  17. Ok so i just found out that my 90 bronco xlt has the weakest altnator in the world at 70-80 amp. plus my battery is shit. so i found used alts on ebay for under50 from different model fords that had 120 ampalts. i know that not much but its bettr then what i have now. My question with the 120 alt will i need another battery to go with a new starter one. im about to run 1800w rms for the 18 and 400w for the doors and 6x9s. I will be one day going to 2 18s when my funds permit. i was thinking of getting 2 battterys from sonic cant think of the name right now but the have 600 cranking. and only 69 bucks. together thats cheaper or the same a just getting a walmart battery. Am i thinking to hard on this one or will i really 2 two batteries. thanks for all yall help. and if i go with one or two which would be the best under $150 total. i can go more just hoping i dont have to.
  18. im looking at getting a hifonics 1500d and was wondering if anyone had experiance with them it will be at 1 ohm i will be instlling a fan on it but other than that just general thoughts and experiance with them thanks
  19. I think we all can agree that car audio, or anything to do with audio or electronics, can be the most frustrating things to discuss with other people due to the difficulty of understanding and conceptualizing electricity and electronics. In short, there are a lot of ignorant and arrogant people out there who claim a lot of bulls**t to be true yet there are also people who really do know what they are talking about. The trouble is going through all the trolling and blabbering to decipher who really is speaking the truth. To me, the best way to approach this is to first take a step back, and then look at the science, or math. I am a student majoring in Electrical Engineering and I do not know everything. I do though know enough to ask some questions. (Sorry for the monologue introduction. I am venting from the hours of scouring the internet for answers and only finding ignorant arrogant trolls.) SOOOOO, my question for this topic: What is the true electrical limit for a system? I know that the alternator supplies most of the electrical power to the car, while the car is running. When the car is not running, the electrical power is coming from the battery. So: If the car is running wouldn't the only electrical limit be the amount of amps that the alternator can produce? I am asking because there are quite a few people who say just to upgrade the battery or add a battery. How would that help if the car is running? For example: I have a 2007 Ford Fusion. The battery is a Die Hard Gold. The stock alternator is 150 Amps. I am assuming that is peak amps at a high rpm (not sure specifically what rpm). I am also guessing and figured that the car's basic electronic needs (like the computer, fuel injector, and other important electrical components) will need about have of the alternator's rating, so about 75 amps which is about 1100W while the car is running (14.5V). Let me know if this sounds flat out wrong. I want to get 2 SA 8 v.2's and push them with an amp that can deliver 1500W RMS @ 1 Ohm (750W to each sub) safely, efficiently, and cleanly. Now, if the car's basic needs take up 75 Amps of the alternator and even if I could get all of the other 75 Amps from the alternator (which would be at its peak at a high rpm), I still wouldn't have enough power for to get to my amp to give to my subs. The ultimate best I could do is 550W to each sub and but is still in a perfect world of amplifiers with 100% efficiency. If I included a realistic 85% efficiency, each sub would only be getting about 460W. So, the problem: I don't have enough power to supply my amp. Solution: Get more power! How do I get more power? By increasing the power supply's power output. What is the power supply? BING BING BING BING BING!!!!! That is the $1,000,000 question of this topic!!! So many people say just get a bigger or better or more batteries, which would work it the car is off. But for me, I am in my car to drive. When I am driving the car is running. When the car is running, most of the electricity is coming from the alternator. SO WHY DO THEY SAY TO USE BIGGER OR BETTER OR MORE BATTERIES?!?!? Do they only listen to their system with the car off? And even then, how could a stock alternator handle charging a battery bigger than it was designed to charge AND also power the essential functions of the car AND power the sound system?!?!! If anyone is going to answer my questions, at least answer the last few. AND PLEASE!! Don't answer if you don't know. I don't want to become a false informed ignorant douche. I am not looking to pick fights, neither do I enjoy others fighting, so please: RESPECT EVERYONE'S POST and if you think they are wrong, then spend the time to KNOW they are wrong, otherwise, if you KNOW they are wrong, please RESPECTFULLY LET THEM KNOW WHAT THEY GOT WRONG AND CORRECT THEM and explain if necessary. Just because the other person is not in front of you in person doesn't mean you can insult them. NOW, let's talk ELECTRICITY!!!!!!!!!!! PS: This is my first post, so be please be extra nice...... if possible.
  20. Updated System Amp-Rockford T-1000.1 BDCP pushing 1568 Watts at 1 or 2 ohms. Subs- (2) Alpine type R 12's (dual 2) Radio-Pioneer DEH-3500UI Door speakers-Rockford Punch series 6.5"(2) and 4X6" (2) Wires-Tsunami 4AWG( soon to be Cadence 0AWG) Electrical-150 AMP alternator with upgraded battery Please comment anything that could be better or any helpful tips. or any pointers. Thanks!(:
  21. I recently ordered a soundqubed HDC 3.15 D1, (thanks to helpful recommendations from members here), and am hung up on which amp to order. I was warned a 2000 watt amp would require full electrical upgrades. I believe I'm currently running the stock 117 amp alternator (will confirm that soon) in my 98 jeep cherokee with a gm-d8604 amp to four coax speakers. I will be upgrading my battery cables and alternator cables to 1 awg soon. If I went with the q1-2200.2 what would be the best but cheapest way to power that? I've looked into h.o. alternators but I'm not sure. Additional batteries? I know the HDC 3.15 can take more but how much power would the q1-1200.2 require and what minimum electrical upgrades would I need for that? Any other amp suggestions for the HDC 3,15 with minimal electrical upgrades needed? Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to search for box plans myself, but any advice on that is welcome too.
  22. Ok so, my rear battery doesn't not seem to be taking a charge, I have a duralast battery under the hood, and an XS Power D4700 in the rear. all skyhigh 1/0 wiring. when unhook the charging wire from the rear battery, and put a volt meter on just that wire coming from the front battery, it's reading 14.4-14.5 with the car on. As soon as I connect the charging wire to the rear battery, the meter reads 12.3-12.4 ish with the car on. I think the ground is good because I've never had a problem with it charging before. any ideas what it could be? XS battery is about 6 months old
  23. has any one ever used regular solid stranded 1/0 or 2/0 electrical wire as power or ground instead of Multi-strand wire i know regular wire is harder to mold into shape and terminate but could it be use for jumping battery to battery or frame to batt / alt to batt what would be the neg/pos less current and amperage? bad connections? btw im a electrician so i have alot of 2/0 a laying a round. i was thinking about beefing up my grounds frame to rear batt any ideas thanks
  24. looking for Ho alternator DC power, mechman, singer,etc... looking for ess than 300$ used more if new hmu with offers
  25. so i have a jl 500/1 amp. i checked all my connections and everything was ok. my green power light comes on, no problem there. my problem is that there is no output to my sub at all. any reasons why it is doing this or solutions to fix it?
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