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Found 76 results

  1. Hey guys! So I've been busy shopping some batteries and cables for my setup, so when the car is not running I'd be still capable of powering my setup fine. I bought some KnuKonceptz OFC 1/0 gauge wire, and ended up with two AGM batteries that I purchased used, but still in fine condition. (one 95 AH , and one 105AH) In order to get the max out of them I strapped the two together in hopes to get the sweet 200AH I was looking for based on this online calculator: When I set everything up, and tuned the amp, there came the big moment, to clamp test everything. I was suprised, but I only got around 800 RMS, on test tone. As far as amps go I got myself a Hifonics Brutus BRX 2016.1D, and a pair of Rockford Fosgate P3 D4 subs. The reason why I wrote down everything this meticulously, is because I wold like to know what could went wrong with my little test. According to my calculations I shold easily get 1000 RMS, with this particular choice of equipment. The batteries are capable of producing this kind of power, the wiring is overkill for 1k I think, the amp is rated at 2kw and even if half is true it is still 1kw, the subs are CEA-2031 rated and knowing Fosgate they are up to the task, I got the 200A fuse as recomended by the manual of the sub, so I don't know what could cause this power drop. What do you guys think can be the cause of the problem? Any thoughts wold be useful!
  2. My good friend Aaron, aka Psyph Morrison, has never had a real system in any of his cars before. If you don't know who Psyph is (pronounced Sife), look him up on itunes, spotify or any other music app out there. Youtube as well. I have known him over 10 years and even worked with him on his last 3 albums as an executive producer. Ok, now that is out of the way, the reason he is getting a system is because well, the entire time i have known him and worked with him making music, especially music with a lot of bass, he has never had a system of his own. I don't know anyone who has had more car issues than him so we really never made it to the discussion of a system. Not too long ago he picked up a 2002 Honda Accord 4 door. I knew right then he has a reliable vehicle finally. So i offered to slap some beat in it for him. Watching him pull up, slapping his own music in a (not so great) stock sound system was really bothering me. How can my boy ride around like that if he know's ME? Long story cut short...his car is at my shop for a few weeks while i figure out what i am going to do. I have NO "plans". I just want to get him some good equipment, set it up proper and make him happy! ****NOTE, anything you see here is subject to change as i am totally freestyling this. Trying to just make it work. First i stopped by Arden Audio in Sacramento Ca. They always have what i need in stock over there and if they don't i can get it same or next day. I decided to pick Psyph up a new head unit first and foremost. I also got the dash kit and wiring harness to go with it. Grabbed some SkyHigh 16ga OFC speaker wire to run to the doors. The system will consist of (so far) Pioneer DEH X7800 BHS Head Unit Rockford Fosgate Punch 1000.1 (BASS) Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.2 (Highs) (2) Rockford Fosgate P3 12" subs (ported enclosure) (1) Set Rockford Fosgate T2 6.5" separates SMD Fuse / Grounding Blocks Mechman 1/0 OFC Power Wire Skyhigh 12 and 16ga Speaker Wire I already had a P300.2 but i got him a matching 1000.1 to go with it. These P3 12" subs are not brand new but might as well be. They are in brand new condition! They are my old ones. This box was already finished and just hanging around the shop. I KNOW it sounds good so it should do great in his trunk! The trunk floor is at an angle so i have to make a platform and flatten it out some so the box sits level.
  3. As stated in subject I'm looking for a rf t2500-1bd non constant power model. I have several references and I'm ready to buy. Steve Meade himself can vouch for me. Thanks in advance
  4. Hello guys, I need your help. Maybe anyone of you has any experience with this issue or Bit One configs. The thing is that I have wired my Bit One and it does receive 12 volts from the battery, but it doesn't power up. What I've tried: - My friend has a Bit One, I tried replacing his with mine and it didn't work, while his does. - Tried a different DRC and manually powering it on - Hooking it up to the battery What I haven't done yet: - Connect it to a laptop with USB to see if it turns on (haven't tried because I am not ready to tune it yet as I've just only wired it) Things I'm unsure of: - Is it possible that a config causes this issue? (probably not as it should turn on when it's hooked up straight to the battery I'm guessing) - Is it possible that, because my Bit One hasn't been powered on for half a year, perhaps it needs to be 'charged' Anyone, please help me! Edit: could it be that it just turns on when it senses an audio signal?
  5. Hey guys, just had my first professional install done on my Lexus ls430...the owner of the shop happened to have a similar model Lexus, so that was really cool. What I had installed as listed ---20 foot of Wirez signature 0 AWG copper wire ---Wirez Mini ANL 0 AWG fuse holder (w/ 150 Amp fuse) ---Wirez Fused Distro Power Block - 2 Amp Anyhow, I have a few questions... 1. What is the biggest Amp I can throw on here without adding a secondary battery? 2. If I added a secondary battery in the back and ran the 0 AWG directly from alternator to secondary battery (in this case it's gonna be either a JY power 45 or 79 AH 12 volt lithium ion battery.....would the 0 AWG be enough to charge this battery effectively so that I could power a large amp (eg. 3000 watts RMS or greater? I am just wondering how many batteries I can effectively charge without putting too much strain on the alternator...and of course I am considering getting a HO alternator... 3. If I throw on a 240 Amp Alternator, how can I limit the amount of current that is drawn through the 0 AWG into the secondary battery? eg. do I need a battery management system of some sort?
  6. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  7. Hey all. I'd like to wire an "accessory relay" and manual on/off switch for my amps and internal lighting (all currently connected to remote turn on wire behind head unit). How would I wire up a relay with a switch? Ideally the switch will turn on the amps and everything when my car is OFF and everything comes on when car comes on no matter if the switch is on or off.
  8. I have an XS D7500 Battery that I am trying to get rid of. It's been sitting in the garage and I don't use it. I fully charged it on the XS Power battery charger a few weeks ago and its currently resting at 12.7V - 12.8V. $500 shipped and it's yours, thanks for looking! (If you are local in the Denver area and I don't have to ship it, I will give you a better deal!)
  9. Bassknucklehead626

    Rockford Fosgate vs. American Bass

    Hey all on this forum. I have a debate whether I want to use 2 old school Rockford Fosgate 1001BD power amps to push 2 MTX Audio 9515-44s or instead go for an American Bass PH-4000 MD to push them @ 1ohm. Power consumption isn't really a concern but I want to know if it's worth getting 2 RF amps or just having one amp to push them both.
  10. What is the general community consensus on the use of welding cabe instead of cable sold for car audio? I can get 1/0 OFC 105deg rated welding cable of about 3.26 a foot but i can only get 1/0 sold for car audio for about 11.50 a foot(this is from a trusted shop that would not screw me I think). Is there something Im missing here like the only disadvantage is weding cable will not be as flexabule. thank you for your time
  11. I recently ordered a soundqubed HDC 3.15 D1, (thanks to helpful recommendations from members here), and am hung up on which amp to order. I was warned a 2000 watt amp would require full electrical upgrades. I believe I'm currently running the stock 117 amp alternator (will confirm that soon) in my 98 jeep cherokee with a gm-d8604 amp to four coax speakers. I will be upgrading my battery cables and alternator cables to 1 awg soon. If I went with the q1-2200.2 what would be the best but cheapest way to power that? I've looked into h.o. alternators but I'm not sure. Additional batteries? I know the HDC 3.15 can take more but how much power would the q1-1200.2 require and what minimum electrical upgrades would I need for that? Any other amp suggestions for the HDC 3,15 with minimal electrical upgrades needed? Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to search for box plans myself, but any advice on that is welcome too.
  12. Rockford Fosgate is giving SMD members a 1st look at technology explanations for their new 2015 T1 Slim 10"/12" subwoofers, Power T2 13"/16" subwoofers, and Power T3 superwoofers. We know SMD members know what goes into making a subwoofer, so we're excited to show this exclusive content explaining the science behind Rockford Fosgate's engineering methods. We encourage and look forward to your constructive feedback.[/size]
  13. Alright guys, Its been quite awhile since I've been on here and I'm hoping to get some input. The Specifics: 1. Daily driven trunk car, IF I meter it will be just for fun. 2. Weight concerns me. 3. 320a alt and a D4700 is already up front. 4. I have 2 D3400's I don't think I want to use anymore. 5. SCV-6000D is the amp going to be used. Would 2 XP3000's be sufficient enough to run this daily? I need Batteries with better RC and Ah then the D3400's. I would really like to stay at or below 150lbs if possible 160 at the highest. Any sane and logical input is much appreciated, I've always believed if I needed an answer or input for anything CA related and I don't have an answer or a really good idea this is the best place to ask it.
  14. Hey guys I have had this amp for a while, It was in my friends car for years with no issues, then I purchased his whole setup when he got rid of the car. I used the amp in my car for several months and then one day It just lost output. Turns on like it wants to play, doesnt protect. No pop or any signs of plugging anything into the speaker outputs. Since the amp isnt externally fused I cant check that possibility. I took all the panels off to see if I can get the board out easily and thats not possible due to all the epoxy (stock picture until I can get a decent one) The board looks immaculate still. No signs of any major failures or blown components, I dont want to hack away to get the board out for no reason. Upon closer looking I see a jumper socket in between the power inputs and speaker inputs (left in picture above) I have no clue what that could possibly be for, nothing plugs into that from the chassis or side panels. I dont know much about newer technology in these incredibly tiny and powerful amps. Is it possible that that jumper is just a "reset" socket or something they use for testing? Any input anyone has would be greatly appreciated!
  15. Ok so, my rear battery doesn't not seem to be taking a charge, I have a duralast battery under the hood, and an XS Power D4700 in the rear. all skyhigh 1/0 wiring. when unhook the charging wire from the rear battery, and put a volt meter on just that wire coming from the front battery, it's reading 14.4-14.5 with the car on. As soon as I connect the charging wire to the rear battery, the meter reads 12.3-12.4 ish with the car on. I think the ground is good because I've never had a problem with it charging before. any ideas what it could be? XS battery is about 6 months old
  16. This is my first true build by myself. I'm expecting some props and hate from this type of community and I'll take everything with a grain of salt. No butt-hurt here. For this build I didn't have all the proper tools or even the knowledge to know what the hell I was doing. So after countless YouTube videos and questions I've asked on Facebook these are the results that are presented. (FYI - My 2-chan amp blew the 1st channel and so my subs are actually just for show and aren't hooked up.) 2011 Kia Forte Koup SX Pioneer AVH-3500BHS head unit T600-2 amp 2x Punch P3D410 subs T400-4 amp 4x Punch P1562S component speakers NVX sound deadener in the trunk Custom false floor Of course this could have been done better, but I've had a lot of praise from car enthusiasts at the last two events I've been to. So for a first time this is pretty good I'd say.
  17. So about a month ago I got some re sx 18s and I just got an amp today, but I simply cannot find it anywhere online, its a ground shaker amp, rated @ 1500 RMS @1ohm and but its handling .5ohm pretty good though, anybody have any info or experience, or know about how much its even worth?. Any info will be very much appreciated..
  18. Hello all, Joined this forum way back when I had my first car (2001 civic 4-door), noob build in there and learned a lot, then a much better build in my 2009 cobalt base model, but recently traded that in for a car I've always wanted, 2011 Subaru STI. Took my equipment from my cobalt but not everything is going into the STI. Bought it slightly used (only 30k kilometers on the odo) I have changed over the years, I am no longer a huge audiophile I once was but still appreciate a very nice system. I am going for strictly SQ build but with a good punch to it and can get decently loud. I had some other members answer pretty much all the questions I had in another thread, so thanks for the info!!! Well first off, here's some pics of the car when I first picked it up from the dealer; After I gave it a full detail and some debadging; Now, onto the audio goodies. The rear speakers in my cobalt were 6x9 but the STI has 6.5 in the rear doors so the 6x9 are for sale and had to order some 6.5 for the rear doors. Also, my JBL GTO 1214D subs in my vented enclosure are just way too big for my trunk, I want trunk space, especially if I want to hear up north with friends for a weekend of skiing, so I want at least one side of fold-down seats available to me. Here is the list of what will be going in the STI; HEAD UNIT: Pioneer x850BT (bought it new for the STI) Harness: SVDX's (David) harness for subaru ( Other: Metra Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control harness Front: JBL P660c components (from last build) Rear: JBL P662 "fillers" (Ordered, on their way) 4ch AMP: JBL GTO1004 4-channel amp (150RMSx4 at 2ohm, from last build) SUB: JBL W10GTI (about to order today ) in sealed 0.75 cubic foot box Mono AMP: Clarion DPX11551 (1550wRMS at 2-ohm or 850wRMS at 4-ohm, from last build) SUB BOX: custom made by me ELECTRICAL: knukonceptz KCA 1/0-gauge power kit, Karma SS 4-ch RCA cable Chose the W10GTI because I've always wanted the GTI series subs and after doing research, most said it's a very solid and well-rounded sub. Also, my amp should be perfect for it, hooked up at 3-ohm it should put out around 1000-1200RMS which should be more than enough. FIRST UPDATE: First thing I ordered and installed was the head unit and install accessories. The install went pretty smooth. I got the ASWC harness as well to keep steering wheel controls functional with the new head unit. I also got the JDM STI bezel that perfectly contours the double din screen (shipped straight from japan!) I decided the JDM bezel was too bland so I cf-wrapped it to make it pop a bit more. PICS; Soldered and shrink-wrapped all connections; all connected and taped up (for the most part): Carbon-wrapped dash trim; Installed, with my custom "subaru STI" splash screen I designed;
  19. So, here is my situation. I was rewiring my amp to run some leds off the subwoffer output, but being a dumb ass, i wired the left and right channels of my 2 channel sub amp up to the front and hooked them together parallel to one side of a switch. Shortly after my amp stopped working. It gets power, I can tell because the vanity lighting is on, but the amp inst putting out anything to the subs. Plus the power indicator light wont come on. Does anyone know what might have happened before i rip the amp out and apart looking for problems? Thanks in advance.
  20. Hey guys, Im having trouble with DC Powers site. When I click on get a custom quote it goes to a blank page. They do not have the alt for my car listed which is the reason I need to get a custom quote. m desperate bc my alt gave out on my car so as of now im car-less. IAny help would be greatly appreciated. TIA guys.
  21. I now Present my 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Speed Manual Link to the UBL of the Build <-------, this thread since 10/3 is used for commenting Note: Pictures in This First Post are Dated, and More Building Goes on Throughout the Thread, Enjoy! Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD (Parking Brake Bypass, Aux 1: Turn-on From Remote, Aux 2: Automatic Amp Turn off on Remote Start and Manually) Axxess Interface Steering Wheel Control Module Speakers: Full Active Setup - No Passive Crossovers Kicker QS65.2 Components (Front Door) Kicker QS65.2 Components (2nd Front Door) Kicker QS65.2 Components (Rear Doors) Kicker QS60.2 Components (Rear window Speakers) Sundown SA-12 (Sub 1) Sundown SA-12 (Sub 2) Total: 2 Subs , 8 Speakers, 8 Tweets Amps: Kicker 10ZX2500.1 2845 RMS (Sub Amp) Kicker 10ZX650.4 (Tweet Amp) Kicker 11ZX650.4 750 RMS (Right Side Mids) Kicker 11ZX650.4 679 RMS (Left Side Mids) Total: 4 Amps Power: Mechman Alternator Candy Red, 220 Amp Max, 120 Idle (Tested Output) Electron Beam 2/0 (2+ runs, 1 - Run) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kolossus Flex OFC Wire (- Wire Run and Alt wires to front battery) 4 Gauge KNU Kolossus Flex (Tweet + Mid Amps Power) XS Power D3400 AGM Battery (Rear) XS Power D3100 AGM Battery (Front) XS Power Intellecharger 12v Charger (Built into the Vehicle) Signal: Kicker KX3 3-Way Crossover (Allows Tweet Crossover Also) Kicker 03KQ30 30-Band Equalizer Kicker XW16300 300 Ft Roll 16 Gauge (Mids and Tweets Wires) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 3 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Equalizer) Kicker XI46 4 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Crossover From Equalizer) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Tweets Amp) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Right Mid Amp) Kicker XI26 2 Channel 6 Meter X-Series RCA's (Going to Left Mid Amp) Kicker XIYF Y-Splitter X-Series (From Crossover) Kicker XIYF Y-Splitter X-Series (From Crossover) Security: Python 592 (Same as Viper 5902 Except has a Cooler Black Remote) Flash Logic FLCAN Bypass Module (Works Perfect) DEI Shock Sensor DEI Glass Break Sensor DEI Tilt Sensor (Tells me if my car is being jacked up for the rims or towed away ) Mcgaurd Security lug nuts (you will not get my rims off with these, highly recommend this brand) Tools: DD-1 Distortion Detector Upgraded Car Parts AudioTechnix 80 Mil Sound Deadener (75 Sq Ft, 3 Rolls) Second Skin 80 Mil (Thanks Steve) Second Skin Overkill Pro (Thanks Again Steve!) Hawk HPS Brake Pads (All Around) DBA Slotted Rotors with Kangaroo Paw Cooling Technology (All Around) Hankook iPike w409 (Winter Tires) Hankook Ventus v12 evo (Summer Tires) Upgraded Throttle Body Ground (Quicker Reaction) Under Foot well Sound Reactive CCFL Lighting Advanced Timing Mod Throttle Body Bypass Mod Corksport SRI Intake Corksport LED Lighting Kit VCTS Delete Exedy Stage 1 Clutch New OEM Flywheel James Barone Balance Shaft Delete Kit James Barone Racing 88 Durometer Rear Motor Mount James Barone Racing 80 Durometer Passenger Motor Mount TRZ Transmission Mount Coil Spring Specialists Custom Rear Springs (Extra 450lbs) Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Gates Tensioner Gates Greenback Fleetrunner Belt (1/2" Shorter) Redline Transmission Fluid Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil Got this Baby on 6/21/11 and I love it! Day I first got it Wiring setup Sept 18th update pic:P Got My D3400 In Already! (Old Pic, lots of new Wiring going on now ) D3400! Subs will Fit Side By Side! Gonna Have to really work this with 4 amps and 2 15's, 8 crossovers XD THESE PICTURES DONT SHOW ALL THE EQUIPMENT, OLD PICTURES I love Kickers Stuff! Hope you will Enjoy this Build, will be doing Videos and Pictures all the way through it! I really want a Kicker Sponsorship! I decided just to go all out and go 100% Kicker Besides on Power Supplies which they don't Make! I love the Quality of there Higher end Stuff and Can't wait to make my Hair stand up on my arm!
  22. Originally had 2 JL W1v2 running off a alpine Mrp-m500 (so 250 each sub). With this setup didnt really have much voltage drop just slight. NOW Im running 2 JL W3v3 running off a JL HD750/1 (375 each sub). Before I got the 750 installed today, the subs running off the 500amp were slamming. With the new amp installed I thought they would sound noticeably louder but they actually sounded lower. All gains set with DD1. When I read the battery with car and audio on the batttery read at 13.4 but as soon as i raise the volume to normal listening volume the voltage drops to 12.1-2. Also the headlights barely have to look really hard to notice but then again my lights are HIDs. My car battery is about 3 years old which I know is cutting close to needing to be changed. My immediate plan of action was to purchase a Yellow Top optima for car battery. Is this the best option or should I keep the car battery there and wire the yellowtop in the trunk with the amp? Is this what the problem is or could it be something else??
  23. I got a Ascendant Audio 18 bout to upgrade Alternator but i have to take a trip first i also have a Hifonics 1700.1 Dmono block. lookin to buy a battery before the trip and do the alternator when i get back. I have this in a 2000 Grand Marquis with a 130 amp alternator, its not hooked up at the moment i have knu 0 gauge ran with a 300 amp fuse and a fuse holder a another 300 amp fuse for the extra battery. Just lookin for some ideas on a good under hood battery or an extra battery? What would you do for the time being. Of course it wont stay this way when i get back im going to upgrade amp but for know just 1700 watts. recently blew 2 L7 kickers so i know the car can handle it but i dont want the volts droppin under 12 from the sub being able to take in 2500+..... need a lil help thanks.
  24. dawgs007

    What should I upgrade next?

    I figured this is the best place to gain opinions on this topic... My current subwoofer setup is: 12" Power Acoustik Mofo-122X T-Line box tuned to 32hz Soundstream Picasso 1.1200d Bullz Audio 2.2 Farad Capacitor and I recently heard a buddies' setup and was curious why his seemed to hit so much deeper. His car (Mercury Cougar) shook like crazy and I could about feel my throat being ripped out due to the vibration from the lows . My setup gets loud, but it appears to be louder on the high notes and not hit the low notes nearly as hard. His setup was: 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 Sealed box (not sure on dimensions or tuning of it) JL 300/4 amp My setup is "rated" higher (I know I will achieve nothing like what they advertise), but it really is nowhere near his smaller setup. I was wondering if you guys had any input on the culprit as to why my setup is substantially more quiet on the low notes and not quite as loud in general. And for what it's worth, my sub is "rated" at 2700W max and 1500W rms. And the amp is 1,200W rms. His sub is rated at 600W rms and 1200W peak.
  25. I currently have my Power Acoustik Mofo-122X wired to 2ohm. Would it be beneficial to switch up the wiring to 1ohm? The difference is 900W at 2ohm to 1200 at 1ohm. And if I provide the link ( could you guys tell me if the amp is stable at 1ohm? It gives 1ohm rms but doesn't state if it's 1ohm stable on a single 2-ohm DVC sub. A response and diagram on how-to would be great (I'm still in the learning process, immensely). Thanks in advance!