Miguels Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 belt was the original size. Eric told me to go smaller on the belt to reduce slippage. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 So, you never fixed the voltage spiking issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted August 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Been doing some searching, and not actually found an answer to the voltage spikes.. however, I did find this. I had a similar experience (with a Mercedes, however) and the Bosch mechanic told me that the diodes could have failed due to spikes caused by worn out rings/brushes to the alternator rotor. The brushes start to jump and this creates lots of spikes which can kill both the diodes and the regulator. Which makes me wonder, if the new brushes aren't worn in yet, could this be the issue? and its just a matter of running it for a few days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 I had a query... Since taking this pic, I've added a 0ga cable to the top alternator mounting bolt, and also removed the paper from the aluminium bar. My question however, seeing as the rectifier is mounted to the rear housing, how exactly does the 320amps on the ground side make it to the front housing? There's no ground stud on the rear housing, and the only real connection between the two appears to be the four 4mm bolts? Plus the housing is painted, so who knows how good a connection this even makes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted August 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2013 Mechman have told me that the voltage spikes is exactly what their alternators do, and that there's nothing wrong with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Update, the voltage spikes will occasionally cause my amp to go into overvoltage protection... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DC Power Kyle Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 I may have missed this, but what batteries? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g2shuck Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Mechman have told me that the voltage spikes is exactly what their alternators do, and that there's nothing wrong with it Not acceptable in my book 2000 Toyota Camry With Sealed Off Trunk Sky High OFC Wiring DC Power 270 XP Alt AQ 2200 Sub Amp Two DC Level 4 m2 12s 80 Mil Murdetmat Gathering Parts For Wall Build. Team DC Audio 2014 Member Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 how many batteries? and also the ground situation is an interesting question Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 Currently running two 1000cca, 130ah batteries in the back, and an XS D3100 (1100cca, 110ah or so) So yes, they are mismatched. As well as a 750cca, 50ah battery under the hood. (420ah?) I've realized specifically when it happens. Warm engine so the idle speed has dropped, but the alternator still hasn't suffered from heat soak, so its charging at 15volts, or close to it. Sitting at lights, with the warm (low) idle, means the alternator has basically switched off. (car idles at about 560rpm although I have a 1 : 3.7 pulley ratio from memory) When you accelerate, the alternator kicks in, voltage spike that's higher than when the alternator is warm, and the amp goes into protect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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