Nubcakeninja Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 ok guys, so i got my singer alt a week or 2 ago and since then its been amazing. i have my stinger volt meter hooked up to my amp and its accurate, my amp sees 14 volts all the time and about 13.5 volts full tilt. i have a smaller stinger agm battery in the back next to the amp. my question is why is my amp seeing 14 volts all the time and my car gauge is seeing significantly less? singer even gave me a meter to put in my cig lighter/car charger spots and it goes from like 13.1 to 13.8. it fluctuates between there and here is the picture of what my car gauge is saying..... it doednt make any sense to me. 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banginhummer Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 put a multimeter to your main battery, and see what its reading. also to your amp. Stinger voltmeters are all that accurate either. *Hummer H3* HeadUnit Pioneer AVH-X4600BT Mids and Highs 8-CT Sounds Pro 8" 8ohm 4-CT Sounds Pro Tweeters Amplifiers 1-CT Sounds 125.4 1-CT Sounds 60.4 1-CT Sounds 7000.1 Electrical 3-Runs of 1/0 CT Sounds 8-XS Power D3100 3-Iraggi 300 amp Alternators Subwoofers 4-SQ Hdc3 15" Subwoofers (Soon to be 4 15" Ct Sounds EXO) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Verify various locations with a DMM. Alt, battery, rear batt (if applicable) and amp. Stinger meters are only accurate once calibrated, and even then the calibration can change/rattle loose. Cigarette lighters aren't accurate because several things can be running off the same circuit/wires, creating voltage drop, giving you an artificially low reading ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubcakeninja Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 should i take the fuse out running from the front battery to the back battery to isolate it and make sure im gettign the reading of that battery by itself or do all the dmm testiing while its all connected? 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 While it's all connected with the car running and misc accessories such as lights turned on ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rambo Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Well in my experience. I had 2 alpine ktp 445 connected to the head unit power wire. And i have a pioneer 80 prs which have a meter and very accurate compared to my stinger meter. Now when im at full tilt or turn on head lights and etc. The meter on the HU drop 1v to 1.5v... Depending on the vehicle and the accessories amperage draw. You will see more drop in the gauge cluster then your meter on the battery bank. Your accessories power wire is only an 8 gauge of corroded copper with a fuse allowing so much amperage before drop in voltage. You can always upgrade the 8 gauge wire or just dont worry about it. Test the voltage on the head unit powerwire to see voltage. They all share the same power wire so it will be accurate. Mayber the guage meter is bad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubcakeninja Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 well guys, i checked everything with a dmm and everything seemed fine until further inspection i noticed that a crimp on the positive run from the front battery to the back battery was coming undone so i soldered it and now everything is back in great working order lol. very happy and surprised that a crimp was causing me to lose like .3 to .6 volts.... but thanks a lot guys, the problem was solved 1995 Blazer lt 4dr 2 t1d412s 1 t2500.1bd 4 polk audio door speakers 2 dash speakers(coming soon) 1 amp to run my mids and highs(coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Good deal! Now solder them all Poor crimps (not done via a 12 ton+ crimper and proper lugs) are a source of resistance and won't stand the test of time ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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