BiiiGWaves Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 so I was playing my sub and out of nowhere it stopped... the amp stayed on and the protect light was not on so im assuming it's the sub. I pulled it out of the box and everything looked fine, all wiring was OK. I have a volt meter but the negative terminal fell off so idk how to see if the coil is ok. any ideas? I really hate not having any bass in my car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 New style or old? How much power on it? Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiiiGWaves Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I cant say for sure, but it seems to be the style before their latest version. it was wired down to about 1.5ohms so any where from 1800 to 2200 rms New style or old? How much power on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTS909 Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 9 volt battery to check coils. VM-1 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Hertz HSK 165XL Arc Audio KS 300.2 Linear Power 1002 Full Mods Fi Audio Q 10s Sundown Audio Scv 3000 Big 3 XS Power D5100 Juice Box 20AH Singer Alternator Sky High Wire <p>My Ebay feedback. http://feedback.ebay...tab=AllFeedback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiiiGWaves Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 can I use the wires running out of the box? and what exactly is suppose to happen? 9 volt battery to check coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03 Xtreme Fosgate Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 yes use the wires that go to your amp,your subs should pop out if polarity is same and suck in if not BUILD LOG-http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179004-03-s10-xtreme-ext-cab-rf-build/ PHOTOBUCKET- http://s1354.beta.photobucket.com/user/03XtremeFosgate/library/truck%20audio%20rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiiiGWaves Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 ok so i got it to work one time so far with the 9 volt. it made a crackling noise and pushed up from what i saw. it only worked that one time though. idk why yes use the wires that go to your amp,your subs should pop out if polarity is same and suck in if not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiiiGWaves Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 ok,i just found a burn hole on the very edge of the spider. thats fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 The new style does not have very heavy leads on it. My best friend has one sitting in his living room as a paper weight. Killed the leads on 1500 watts of clean power. It is $$$$ to get them reconed with shipping and RE will not sell a kit. PSi will recone it for a little less, but it is not like original. If it is an old style, you can recone it yourself. . .kits are available from Fi. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiiiGWaves Posted August 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 I found a recone kit for $170 but I think I'll just sell whats left because ive never reconed anything and I dont think this would be a great sub to practice with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.