apcl30001d

[CleanSierra]

KaseyLambert:

I'm glad you're having a great experience with the AP. At least one poster in this thread has had one smoke on him(Kranny). They've had several amps dead on arrival that guys have bought. I don't need to shower knowledge on you about how you get what you pay for, you'll likely figure it out on your own. You did start this thread to ask a question about your amp being 1 ohm stable and it was answered. Others have chimed in because we know the track record for AP products, we have experience with them. Me personally, I would never, and have ever, owned an Audioipe product. I'm not acting holier than thou because I choose to run Fosgate for power. I've always ran Fosgate, they are tanks, and they are proven. They are also located 35 minutes from my house and a local company to me.

I certainly wasn't trying to be condescending to you, and if I came off that way, I apologize. I was, however, stating my view on the amp and being light-hearted and funny about the brand. AP won't find its way into any vehicle I ever own.

P.S. To say you can tell something sounds like a certain wattage is inexperience. An 18" 600W sub in the proper enclosure might sound, to you, like something more. Whereas a 10" 600W sub may not sound as loud in it's proper box. It may be completely the opposite as well, in a blind test, not knowing which was which. There are MANY factors into why something may sound loud or not, wattage and a rating or a guess is not one the factors. It doesn't take a certain wattage to sound a certain amount of "loud". It's all subjective and objective.

[n8ball2013]

Dont forget the trunk fire because of an ap amp

[Guest]

okay. the amp is 2 amps in 1. 2 of their shitty 1500's to be exact. they're strapped internally. hence why its only stable down to 2 ohms because each of the 1500's will see 1 ohm.

$300 for 2000 watts of shitty power at best.

with a 200 amp fuse. ide more of say 2400? also to you, why wouldnt i know that its 2 1500's???? i think 300$ is still worth looking into it before i bought it, but i dont think 300$ for 2400 rms is not too bad if it is im not looking in the right spots for the right deals. also to anybody out there. why would AP continue to edit and change the look of an amp that is no good? answer me please?

why would they continue to edit the casing to make it look different? because stupid people buy those amps still.

a guy clamped his 1500 at like 1000 watts. fusing doesn't necessarily mean it'll output X power. meade did an amp dyno on some crunch amp or something that had 70 amps of fusing and only did like 350 watts.

and i'd rather spend my money on a good korean amp because my audioque made my woofers sound much better than that piece of shit audiopipe that blew up on me when being fed 14v with no drop.

[Hammer Knock]

KaseyLambert:

I'm glad you're having a great experience with the AP. At least one poster in this thread has had one smoke on him(Kranny). They've had several amps dead on arrival that guys have bought. I don't need to shower knowledge on you about how you get what you pay for, you'll likely figure it out on your own. You did start this thread to ask a question about your amp being 1 ohm stable and it was answered. Others have chimed in because we know the track record for AP products, we have experience with them. Me personally, I would never, and have ever, owned an Audioipe product. I'm not acting holier than thou because I choose to run Fosgate for power. I've always ran Fosgate, they are tanks, and they are proven. They are also located 35 minutes from my house and a local company to me.

I certainly wasn't trying to be condescending to you, and if I came off that way, I apologize. I was, however, stating my view on the amp and being light-hearted and funny about the brand. AP won't find its way into any vehicle I ever own.

P.S. To say you can tell something sounds like a certain wattage is inexperience. An 18" 600W sub in the proper enclosure might sound, to you, like something more. Whereas a 10" 600W sub may not sound as loud in it's proper box. It may be completely the opposite as well, in a blind test, not knowing which was which. There are MANY factors into why something may sound loud or not, wattage and a rating or a guess is not one the factors. It doesn't take a certain wattage to sound a certain amount of "loud". It's all subjective and objective.

ok ic.. but for some power hogs like the 1233d's it takes a lot of power to push them. and for example. you can more then likely tell when you are pushing a sub too far. so if it know some what of its limits. and u remember that from ear. you can gauge what its doing wen its only doing half its limits. No?

[Hammer Knock]

okay. the amp is 2 amps in 1. 2 of their shitty 1500's to be exact. they're strapped internally. hence why its only stable down to 2 ohms because each of the 1500's will see 1 ohm.

$300 for 2000 watts of shitty power at best.

with a 200 amp fuse. ide more of say 2400? also to you, why wouldnt i know that its 2 1500's???? i think 300$ is still worth looking into it before i bought it, but i dont think 300$ for 2400 rms is not too bad if it is im not looking in the right spots for the right deals. also to anybody out there. why would AP continue to edit and change the look of an amp that is no good? answer me please?

why would they continue to edit the casing to make it look different? because stupid people buy those amps still.

a guy clamped his 1500 at like 1000 watts. fusing doesn't necessarily mean it'll output X power. meade did an amp dyno on some crunch amp or something that had 70 amps of fusing and only did like 350 watts.

and i'd rather spend my money on a good korean amp because my audioque made my woofers sound much better than that piece of shit audiopipe that blew up on me when being fed 14v with no drop.

i dont see how it blew up at 14v? my stock alt charges around that . so i get it. sounds like a miss wire or something??? and was it the ap30001d?

[Guest]

you cant tell when a woofer is at "half its limits". LOL bro please stop talking out of your ass with terms like that.

you wanna know what woofer is a power hog? team Fi woofers. you'd need like two and a half of those ap 3000's to make that woofer work well.

edit: i still dont understand in your original post, how you even thought the original ap 3000 was 1 ohm stable?

[Hammer Knock]

Dont forget the trunk fire because of an ap amp

yes! whole reason i bought the amp! 100% chance of trunk fire! labled on box FTW!

[Guest]

okay. the amp is 2 amps in 1. 2 of their shitty 1500's to be exact. they're strapped internally. hence why its only stable down to 2 ohms because each of the 1500's will see 1 ohm.

$300 for 2000 watts of shitty power at best.

with a 200 amp fuse. ide more of say 2400? also to you, why wouldnt i know that its 2 1500's???? i think 300$ is still worth looking into it before i bought it, but i dont think 300$ for 2400 rms is not too bad if it is im not looking in the right spots for the right deals. also to anybody out there. why would AP continue to edit and change the look of an amp that is no good? answer me please?

why would they continue to edit the casing to make it look different? because stupid people buy those amps still.

a guy clamped his 1500 at like 1000 watts. fusing doesn't necessarily mean it'll output X power. meade did an amp dyno on some crunch amp or something that had 70 amps of fusing and only did like 350 watts.

and i'd rather spend my money on a good korean amp because my audioque made my woofers sound much better than that piece of shit audiopipe that blew up on me when being fed 14v with no drop.

i dont see how it blew up at 14v? my stock alt charges around that . so i get it. sounds like a miss wire or something??? and was it the ap30001d?

because its a shitty amp! what else do you expect. my wiring didnt change whatsoever when i switched over to the audioque 1200 and its been working for years. i had the ap 1500, which is the same exact thing as the ap 3000 which just literally has 2 1500's internally.

edit: while it was blowing up (aka shorting out internally), it dropped my voltage below 9v, which caused everything electrical in my car to turn off. hid's, radio, dash lights, volt meter, everything. i dont even know how the car was still fucking running at that voltage. i literally heard mini fires start inside the amp, which was verified because the bottom amp cover was burnt as shit. mind you, this was like 11pm driving through town.

[n8ball2013]

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

[Hammer Knock]

you cant tell when a woofer is at "half its limits". LOL bro please stop talking out of your ass with terms like that.

you wanna know what woofer is a power hog? team Fi woofers. you'd need like two and a half of those ap 3000's to make that woofer work well.

edit: i still dont understand in your original post, how you even thought the original ap 3000 was 1 ohm stable?

AP manual. but they single terminal the speaker output. so i didnt know if it was updated