Ryan_Kao Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 Well alright! Im a member of many forums, but this is my first car audio forum! I'm extremely excited to get to know the community!Here we go, my first post!Alright so, I'm here very soon going to be in the process of a new budget build for a car I just bought. I saw budget because, well, I'm a kid, with not much income, so I can't really afford to much. Anyways, I'm going to be quite limited due to the electrical system I have. The stock alternator of the 1999 Subaru Outback Sport is rated for 70amps. A bit depressing honestly. But gotta work with what I got. The amplifier I'm looking into is the Soundstream DTR1.900D. Yes I realize that this amp is discontinued, but if I remember right, the D-Tower series amps put out some nice clean true power. I may be wrong, if so please correct me. I found a great deal on this amp so it fits perfectly in my "budget" price range. My main question is, will this amp put out good power at 1ohm? (what im planning to wire it down to), and will my 70amp Alt, and an older Die Hard Gold series battery, be able to handle it!I do eventually plan to upgrade the starter battery, and add in a small secondary, something like a little Kinetik HC600.Bad images, I know. Taken with my phone in low light. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watch the bass Posted August 23, 2013 Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 The DTR amp´s are well known and a good choice for a budget build. Your doubt´s about your electrical system is right, 70 amp alt and old batt is weak for your plan´s. In my opinion, you have to do the http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/13280-how-to-do-the-big-3-tutorial/ and change your die hard batt, threw a biggest baddest car-audio batt that you can fit. Here a link to a batt on sale (100$ under average Ebay price) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16769_Stinger-SPV70.html you can save aditional 10 % if you about V-me. If you can place the batt from the messurment´s, get these batt, Killerdeal. Stinger is the only car-audio batt that is comparable to XS-Power (quote from Nathan from XS-Power). "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted August 24, 2013 Report Share Posted August 24, 2013 Depending on how much you want to spend I personally would get a alt first. People here will say get your electrical squared away first then build your system up. Electrical will cost more then your system will just a FYI 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted August 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Depending on how much you want to spend I personally would get a alt first. People here will say get your electrical squared away first then build your system up. Electrical will cost more then your system will just a FYI Seems like a H/O Alt is very expensive for my car. Not sure I can afford it. What about adding a second battery, or replacing the current one? I could maybe afford to get like a Kinetik HC600, and do the big 3? Would that sefice? Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Big 3 is just about a must, also upgrading your battery would help a lot also. But when I was looking to do all that in my last car the battery was almost as much as the Alt from mechman. But with the big3 and upgraded batt it will help but that old 70 amp alt will still be a problem because it is old and most likely not doing its job properly and putting the whole 70 amps out. My old car had a 110 amp and with 600watts the lights dimmed pretty bad. Now my new car 1200w and not really dimming at all. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soccerballzs Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Big 3 is not going to improve anything with a 70 amp alternator. Maybe run a 4 gauge off it to battery to start. Try putting a XS D3400 up front stay away from amps that are going to eat power. I would get a 5 channel amp and call it quits till you get alternator. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan_Kao Posted August 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 I put in a request to Mechman on a quote for a 150amp alt for my car! If all goes well, I will do that first, then if my current battery has good diagnostics, I'll add a small second (HC600), if its bad, I'll get a full on big battery for upfront and call it good. Then buy the other stuff (Sub, box build). I've already purchased the DTR1.900, as well as 4ga wiring. Was hoping for 1/0ga, but the max inputs on the amp are 4. Oh well. Build in progress: -Pioneer Premiere DEH-P49OIB _Kenwood Excelon KFCX173 6.75" -Kenwood KFC-1094PS 4" -DB Link 4AWG -Soundstream DTR1.900D -Obsidian Audio v2 12" D2 @1ohm -L-Port, 2.5cubes @32hz CHECK ME OUT ON YOUTUBE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Cool man hope its not to much at least the cost of a battery lol. But that 170amp alt will make a huge difference in your audio 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
severancej Posted August 26, 2013 Report Share Posted August 26, 2013 Check out b stock things man sundown E's, AQ or SQ stuff, skar, ssa... The for sale section on the forum... That is after the alternator. You'll do fine i think if you follow through on that electrical like your saying. 98' dodge ram 140A alt Big 3 XS D2700 JVC kd-r310 Rockford T500-1BDCP 2 Sundown E12 Ported 4cubes 35hz Rockford P400-4 2 Infinity reference 3way 6x9 2 Polk DB 5 1/4 2x layer dynamat all doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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