Watch the bass Posted September 8, 2013 Report Posted September 8, 2013 I have heard that kicker does make nice amps but supposedly there subs sucks not 100% sure on this. Keep your eye on this linked T 500 Bdcp. Bdcp amp´s are one of the best sub amp´s. "in the abundance of water, the fool is thirsty" Bob Marley
1two3 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Posted September 8, 2013 x2 ^ with that little power it wont matter. think of it this way. car is off the sub aint getting any watts....not a bad thing playing music at half volume also not a bad thing...wont do any harm at all. and when the bass does hit at full volume its not constant, it takes breaks (unless u just like to bump test tones all day that cool too i guess) and in those breaks its not harming ur sub at all. having ur box .25 of a cubic foot this way or that way wont really make any difference for you or ur sub. also a great woofer is the ssa gcon but a bit more expensive. others will look at rockford fosgate, alpine type r or s, and RE SEX is some good bang for ur buck too.. but honestly id get the FI X....amazing woofer just my .02 Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts
intrevic Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Posted September 8, 2013 well which amp would be more efficient the kicker rockford or aq
1two3 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Posted September 8, 2013 probably the fosgate one. either way its not that much current draw anyways. i would do 4g to the amp and do the big 3 in 0g. u can find lots of companies who sell big 3 kits. or u can just do it urself. remmebr to fuse all power wire as close to the source as possible/convinent. i get all my wires from knukonceptz.com including rca's. u can look on sonicelectronix.com for head units (if u need one) dash install kits and other accecories Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts
intrevic Posted September 8, 2013 Author Report Posted September 8, 2013 I actually already bought the wiring kit 4 gauge from stinger it's really flexible, I was trying to get knu but they kept telling me the kit I wanted was out of stock. As far as the head unit goes I was going to stay stock. I have the bluetooth, volume, ipod connection, ect. all built into the steering wheel and dash so I don't want to ruin it. I was thinking of buying the Audio Control LC7 to get the signal for my amp and I will definitely look into a kit for the big 3 upgrade. Oh and another thing I wanted to change my stock battery out which is better a optima or kinetik
1two3 Posted September 8, 2013 Report Posted September 8, 2013 I actually already bought the wiring kit 4 gauge from stinger it's really flexible, I was trying to get knu but they kept telling me the kit I wanted was out of stock. As far as the head unit goes I was going to stay stock. I have the bluetooth, volume, ipod connection, ect. all built into the steering wheel and dash so I don't want to ruin it. I was thinking of buying the Audio Control LC7 to get the signal for my amp and I will definitely look into a kit for the big 3 upgrade. Oh and another thing I wanted to change my stock battery out which is better a optima or kinetik go figures, thats why i hate all the new cars...everything is far too integrated and smarter than its own good. honestly i doubt ud need to get a new battery. i would recomend doing the big three and installing everything and see how it goes. use a voltage meeter or look for lights dimming. if you do want/need a battery get the biggest that fits. i would get the kenetic over the optima. sears has pretty good batteries called the platinum die hards and sometimes u can get them on a wicked sale. XS is or is one of the best batteries for car audio money can buy. box is gonna be your main thing. put more time/money into that if u still have money left over from ur budjet. theres a few guys on here that can help u if ur guy falls through Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts
intrevic Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Posted September 9, 2013 OK 1two3 I appreciate all the help and as far the box honestly I'm trying to avoid building one. I was also trying to avoid making a huge deep box as this is my daily driver and grocery getter so trunk space is important when I need it. My dimensions I'm willing to work with are 12"-14" for the height 12"-15" deep and I would prefer for it to be closer to 12" and I have up to 32" in length
intrevic Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Posted September 9, 2013 Also as far as the sub goes I'm leaning towards either the DC lvl2 or Fi X they both are about the same price. I was thinking about the DD but I honestly feel the extra $50-60 they are charging for the same power ain't worth it. I mean maybe if I was going to run over 1000 watts then I would look into other options but those are the two I'm leaning towards. I decided I am going with the Rockford amp, I know there are bigger amps with more power for the same price but honestly they ain't as compact as this one and they look good too. I'm planning on putting it under the drivers seat as it fits perfectly under there.
1two3 Posted September 10, 2013 Report Posted September 10, 2013 as far as box design goes i cant help you with that. im completly clueless on that but im in the very slow process of learning . (post a new thread asking for an enclosure desgin and maybe joex or someone else can help) to the average joe like you and i, i highly doubt youd ever notice a difference between the 2 subs. theres a few guys on here that can tell you that there worlds apart because this that and the other but like i said, they are probably very very simular. good choice with that amp just keep an eye on the temprature on that bad boy. if your constantly pushing that amp then they like to get pretty warm. ive only ever had my amp go into protect once but it had absolutly had no air circulation and it was staning up rather than flat down AND was playing it for 7 hours with practicaly no breaks. warm to the touch is normal but heat to the point of pain is as u can imagine...bad. no problem. also if i havent said so already... Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts
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