David Bailey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Ok, so i just went and hooked up the meter. 12.5 on the battery with the car off. Turned on the car and it dropped to 11.8 real quick, but jumped to 13.5 when the idle went up and steadied out a bit. I would think this means everything is fine, and the light is just on for some strange reason. I will find out tomorrow if m car dies i guess. lol.. 2007 Toyota Camry CE 2.4 Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Good old smd and multiposts . But I know I have seen this before. Maybe Google your car and see if it is pcm controlled. Sometimes the ecu or whatever flips shit with ho alts Yes it is PCM/ECU controlled, but I would think that it would reset itself with something simple like this. I am about to order a new alt from Mechman next week, so I hope this is figured out beforehand. Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snafu Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 If you remove the fuse from the fuse holder, you're effectively using the factory charge lead ONLY. The ground upgrades will most likely NOT have any bearing on this. After removing the fuse, remove the battery negative terminal for five to ten minutes and allow the ECU to reset. Restart it with ONLY the OEM charge lead connected and check to see that the check engine light doesn't come on. Take it for a short drive to verify this. If all is good, then reinstall the fuse in the fuse holder and do the same thing. If the check engine light comes back on, then we can pull the code from the ECU via the OBDII port (most auto parts stores will do this free) and see what's going on. I have seen a few vehicles that did not like the alternator connected directly to the battery. If that is the case, we can certainly come up with a work-around for your vehicle. Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing Email me at [email protected] to learn about becoming an SMD Partner! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 OK Tony, I will get to it tomorrow and let ya know. Thanks Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 If you remove the fuse from the fuse holder, you're effectively using the factory charge lead ONLY. The ground upgrades will most likely NOT have any bearing on this. After removing the fuse, remove the battery negative terminal for five to ten minutes and allow the ECU to reset. Restart it with ONLY the OEM charge lead connected and check to see that the check engine light doesn't come on. Take it for a short drive to verify this. If all is good, then reinstall the fuse in the fuse holder and do the same thing. If the check engine light comes back on, then we can pull the code from the ECU via the OBDII port (most auto parts stores will do this free) and see what's going on. I have seen a few vehicles that did not like the alternator connected directly to the battery. If that is the case, we can certainly come up with a work-around for your vehicle. Tony.. Just went and unhooked the fuse, then the negative for 10-15 minutes. Re-hooked up the battery, without the charge lead fuse. Battery light is still on ;( But, I hooked up the multi meter while running, and it read 13.61, so that should mean that my alt is charging, right? I have an Advance auto about a block from here, should I hook up everything and have them check the ECU? With the car turned off, the meter reads 12.53 Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenyel Dotts Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Yeah Keith, that is what I m hopping. I will check the battery tomorrow when the car is off, then again when it is on. That should tell me. Then I will either figure out how to reset the computer, or deal with the battery light staying on. I have dealt with my "low air" light ever since I put 19's on her. did they ever take the air pressure sensors out of the old rim and tire and place it in the new rims? Take the car to I think it is auto zone have them do a load test on bat then have them check alt for amperage and voltage. you could have a bad diode in the alternator. I believe this test is free. King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenyel Dotts Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 I have a audi a6 and with after market alt with more then the stand voltage this light stays on. King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Yeah I am gonna run up there and have them check it. They just opened up.. I will be back with an update when I am done. Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Ok, so I took my car to Advanced auto, and had them test it. Funny story.. I noticed a Durango out front with FloridaSPL on the front window. Looked inside, and it is totally walled off. To my luck, it was a dude that worked there. I said you are the guy I need to test my battery and alt right now. (He new what a big 3 was, duh). So anyway, he checked it and said my alt is on the brink. It is not charging at idle, hence the battery light. Just happened to be a coincidence that it took a dump whilst in the middle of doing my big 3. He said the hissing sound it makes when revved up, then a lower humm in idle is what his did right before it went out. Any thoughts? Oh yeah, took a pic of the guys car when he gave me a little demo.. Hit 155 yesterday at the sound off. Gave me a hair trick, and I shave my head bald! Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenyel Dotts Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Good shit! So the diodes or brushes are bad. Ok in this situation if you are not going to up grade the alt. You can talk to some one about a alt repair kit. They even have vids of rebuilds on youtube. King dingalingIts not finished till i say so Bit@^! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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