Trayten Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 Hello! I have a few questions for you lovely people who know so much Ok I'm wondering, what is good material to use for a box? I know MDF, but is there a certain size I should use for this setup? I'm going with the recommended size, 3.5 cu ft. I've seen some things with boxes, seems to be like something to support the box, kinda reminds me of a pillar. If someone could tell me what that is, what it's used for, anything? Can anyone link me / explain to me, how to determine port size? Would be greatly appreciated. Should I fiberglass the inside of my box? Any vital steps I need to take to have my box sound good? Hope my questions are easy enough to answer, and not super stupid to the point where they can't be answered. I'm thinking about going to get my supplies tomorrow some time, we have no school and I don't work, so I have time. So if anyone knows anything about the material I should be using, please share Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.)
john253a Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 Before you tackle the job You'll either want a power saw or a place that will cut to size for you And a jigsaw or router(router gives a better cut) Some good glue And a few screw 1.5x the thickness of the material Power depending 3/4 mdf all round with a second piece on sub front(called double baffle) On bigger of odd shaped boxes I use 1" round dowel to brace or all-threat 45's in the corners are optional but nessery in the port Design depending you can also look at aero ports As for port area 45-60sq" for 3.5net is what u want(this is also power depending) Hz of the box is all up to you and you lesioning tastes Post some measurement Power supply (amp and elec) And see what comes about
Trayten Posted October 14, 2013 Author Report Posted October 14, 2013 Before you tackle the job You'll either want a power saw or a place that will cut to size for you And a jigsaw or router(router gives a better cut) Some good glue And a few screw 1.5x the thickness of the material Power depending 3/4 mdf all round with a second piece on sub front(called double baffle) On bigger of odd shaped boxes I use 1" round dowel to brace or all-threat 45's in the corners are optional but nessery in the port Design depending you can also look at aero ports As for port area 45-60sq" for 3.5net is what u want(this is also power depending) Hz of the box is all up to you and you lesioning tastes Post some measurement Power supply (amp and elec) And see what comes about Ok, we have plenty of tools to cut with, so that's out of the way. Some good glue, is there any special glue for boxes? Or would some strong glue work, like gorilla glue etc? you say 3/4 MDF, ok. I still wanna get some input from others on the size of the MDF too. What exactly is a "45"? I think I was going to go with a slot ported box. My amp is only 1 sq q1-1200d atm, getting another soon and will have 2 of those amps on my 1 15. Stock electrical too, but I plan on doing a big 3 along with probably another battery at least. What do you mean post some measurement? Thank you for all the help / answers my friend! Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.)
afrakes Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 Post measurements of how much room you have to work with in the trunk or wherever ur putting the sub. A 45 is an angle cut to 45 degrees that u put in a corner of your box, in the port to avoid port noise and make the boxes air flow better as well as brace the box ( make it stronger). I would recommend not putting two amp I one sub. You have to gain match whic can be difficult. When u have the money just sell ur 1200 and purchase a single 2200 or something around that same power rating. 3/4 in MDF is the prototypical box material, and will do you fine. The pillars you speak of are placed inside the bod from one side to the opposite side to stop your box from rattling/flexing. In other words, it also makes your box stronger. You can glass the inside if you want, but it's not necessary as long as you have internal bracing. Be sure to include all of your materials volume inside your box too. Everything you put in there takes away from the actual air space used. Edit: also make sure u upgrade the batt under the good along with adding a second batt minimum when u upgrade the amp Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
D-train-13k Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 a 45 is basically an angled cut in the corner to either brace the corner or allow for better air flow. and download the torres box tuning calculator. play around with it until your comfortable. it can be found in the sub enclosure section of the forum. it should be pinned up at the top. as for tuning 12-17 inches per cubic foot is about the bare ends of the spectrum. i would suggest about 15 inches per cubic foot. as for tuning fq probably somewhere around 35hz. it gives you a good range of response box bracing is pretty neccessary because the more flex on a box the more output you lose. so just take some 1 inch dowell rods and glue them side to side on areas that are large with no support. a double baffle is pretty neccessary too. and wood i use 9 ply birch or it can be called blondewood. but mdf is good too. i like birch personally because its alot more reliable. water doesnt affect it like mdf. screws dont come out as easily. etc.. its just stronger imo. but 3/4 is about the thickness most people use. for your purposes it will work just fine i like titebond 3 for glue. that stuff is great. if you have any real problem areas where your cut didnt line up quite properly use liquid nail to "gap fill" essentially. . you can fiberglass. but you probably will not notice any audible difference at all. to help your port dont make it too thin. about 1.5-2 inches is about the smallest width i would make it. youll get port whistle or port noise. so try and design your box around the port you want. it always seems easier for me to do that. anyways good luck. The IrishmanCheck out my build hereXL 4th order wall build logIn Progress:alpine cda HU4th order Bandpass2xl 15's1- ab 400.1 (gonna be two hopefully)4- Crescendo 8's2- xts crecendo supertweeters 2 sq super tweetsMb quart 4.125Mechman 270a alt1- xs D27003- xs XP3000 4- odessey pc1700seller feed back threadhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136418-d-train-13k/
D-train-13k Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 Post measurements of how much room you have to work with in the trunk or wherever ur putting the sub. A 45 is an angle cut to 45 degrees that u put in a corner of your box, in the port to avoid port noise and make the boxes air flow better as well as brace the box ( make it stronger). I would recommend not putting two amp I one sub. You have to gain match whic can be difficult. When u have the money just sell ur 1200 and purchase a single 2200 or something around that same power rating. 3/4 in MDF is the prototypical box material, and will do you fine. The pillars you speak of are placed inside the bod from one side to the opposite side to stop your box from rattling/flexing. In other words, it also makes your box stronger. You can glass the inside if you want, but it's not necessary as long as you have internal bracing. Be sure to include all of your materials volume inside your box too. Everything you put in there takes away from the actual air space used. Edit: also make sure u upgrade the batt under the good along with adding a second batt minimum when u upgrade the amp Not true.. he can strap those amps. you will not have to gain match since the other will be a slave amp you will only need to scope one just make sure that you buy a sub that will wire down to two ohms. you could wire to 1 ohm strapped but im not entirely sure how those amps will like .5 ohm but yes upgrade your electrical when you hit 2kwrms i would recommend a big batt in the back with the amps as well a decent alternator. plus big 3 upgrade The IrishmanCheck out my build hereXL 4th order wall build logIn Progress:alpine cda HU4th order Bandpass2xl 15's1- ab 400.1 (gonna be two hopefully)4- Crescendo 8's2- xts crecendo supertweeters 2 sq super tweetsMb quart 4.125Mechman 270a alt1- xs D27003- xs XP3000 4- odessey pc1700seller feed back threadhttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/136418-d-train-13k/
Bassgenerator Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 I just built my box. 48x24x12.5 with an 8 inch kerfed port tuned to 33hz. 3.5 cu.ft per chamber. For bracing I cut a 2 inch window brace that separates the sub chambers. Also has a double baffle. Got my supplies at Home Depot. 3/4 inch MDF, glue (Titebond II), 1 5/8 coarse drywall screws (orange box). I countersunk and pre drilled the holes using a 5/64 drill bit. I caulked all of the inside edges with Alex silicone latex 35 year caulk. This is to make sure you have a nice seal. I didn't fiberglass my inside, but I have seen and heard of this, but I did paint my port.
afrakes Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 Post measurements of how much room you have to work with in the trunk or wherever ur putting the sub. A 45 is an angle cut to 45 degrees that u put in a corner of your box, in the port to avoid port noise and make the boxes air flow better as well as brace the box ( make it stronger). I would recommend not putting two amp I one sub. You have to gain match whic can be difficult. When u have the money just sell ur 1200 and purchase a single 2200 or something around that same power rating. 3/4 in MDF is the prototypical box material, and will do you fine. The pillars you speak of are placed inside the bod from one side to the opposite side to stop your box from rattling/flexing. In other words, it also makes your box stronger. You can glass the inside if you want, but it's not necessary as long as you have internal bracing. Be sure to include all of your materials volume inside your box too. Everything you put in there takes away from the actual air space used. Edit: also make sure u upgrade the batt under the good along with adding a second batt minimum when u upgrade the amp Not true.. he can strap those amps. you will not have to gain match since the other will be a slave amp you will only need to scope one just make sure that you buy a sub that will wire down to two ohms. you could wire to 1 ohm strapped but im not entirely sure how those amps will like .5 ohm but yes upgrade your electrical when you hit 2kwrms i would recommend a big batt in the back with the amps as well a decent alternator. plus big 3 upgrade You, sir, are correct. I didn't even think about strapping lol. Sorry OP Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
Trayten Posted October 14, 2013 Author Report Posted October 14, 2013 Lol this is what I like, tons of information crammed in a couple posts so that I can put it all together and make the best sense out of it, thanks a lot guys! If anyone knows anything else, keep the answers coming, would be great! I'm going to actually make a list. If I have any questions regarding your posts, I'll quote you and reply back. I more or less just skim-read for now, kinda busy atm. as for tuning 12-17 inches per cubic foot is about the bare ends of the spectrum. i would suggest about 15 inches per cubic foot. as for tuning fq probably somewhere around 35hz. it gives you a good range of response This didn't make much sense to me, the 12-17 inches per cubic foot lost me. I got the bottom part, just that top part really stumped me! Vehicle: 1988 Cadillac Brougham Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Head Unit Custom box built by me (designed by forum member g2shuck) (1) DC XL 15 (2) SQ q1-1200d (2) Crescendo PWX-6's. (more to come someday.)
Bassgenerator Posted October 14, 2013 Report Posted October 14, 2013 No prob. Good luck and keep slamming!!
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