Suggestions welcome!

[john253a]

op

this is how i would go about it

buy nothing at this stage

get a good accurate tape and some cardboard (well worth it as this is not a small build)

mock up the max box you fit, and measure it

try it through the door and another way you might plane to build (now you no the max you fit)

run it through torres or post it up here and someone here will, with an average 14:1 port at say 35hz (this is just a good reference or guide)

so now you will now what the available net you have to work with is

and choose the brand, size and number based off that (and final power of course)

[CodyHendo]

Have you built a box before and will you have help with this one? What made you decide on the 10's?

i will definitely be getting help with the box. I have a friend that will build any box cmc machined for a solid price, so thats what i am leaning towards.

[CodyHendo]

You plan on everything behind the 3rd row?

I meant second row. haha my bad, that makes a lot more sense

[CodyHendo]

I find it funny how members with higher post counts try and talk down to people with lower post counts. I have a suburban and its still a car. Also if he could fit 6 -8 tens behind the 3rd row in a tahoe id be impressed. If it was a suburban sure. Now behind the second row not an issue.

Now what are your goals?

Definitely meant to put 2nd row. haha that would be very impressive. Goals probably just SQL, I just want it to be loud, and still sound pretty good. It would be awesome if i could get a good hair trick out of it once I'm finished and have proper power to em.

[Soccerballzs]

What about using 18 for subs?

[CodyHendo]

I find it funny how members with higher post counts try and talk down to people with lower post counts. I have a suburban and its still a car. Also if he could fit 6 -8 tens behind the 3rd row in a tahoe id be impressed. If it was a suburban sure. Now behind the second row not an issue.

Now what are your goals?

Was it too hard to read before you tried to give advise. And just so we all know a Tahoe is not a car its a truck/suv which makes a lot of difference when considering the acoustic properties of a vehicle. And I guess that since I have less posts than you that also makes a difference? No one would "talk down" to you if your statements weren't so bewilderingly empty.

To the OP there are many different people on the forum with that generation Tahoe. you may consider looking into some of those builds if you have not already done so.

What is the maximum volume you are willing use?

Given that the vvx 10's are rated at 600wrms and you want to run 6-8 you will need next to or less than 5k sub power alone

Are you trying to maintain any type of budget with this setup?

I will probably take a look at some different setups, just thought id get the idea out there first.

My only limitation is that i want it to be lower or same height as the second row seats, just so it looks more clean.

I will eventually be running hopefully 5k or more, gunna start with something extremely small just for every day, and then once my electrical is up to par then i will put real power in for daily.

Budget, kind of, but if i need to i will just wait and save up more.

[CodyHendo]

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/car still a car and you reallly wanna get technical , untill 2003? the gm owners manual for a tahoe / suburban have the vehicle considered a station wagon which is still a car.

Again mine wasnt a rant i publicly apologized for going off on him. But w./e

Now with that said you have 31.25 cu ft gross between the wheel wells non walla correct? Do you wish to go walled or now walled? How good are you in carpentry ? Whats your budget? Goals? Do you like it just load or do you want Sound quality as well? what kind of music do you like?

How about skar sk4500.1 d since your using skar? as well as 2 d3100s or a single d7500 for your rear battery. a single run of sky high 2/0 should be plenty. Id also recommend a Dc power alt , the bigger you can afford the better. Sky high rcas and either a kenwood or pioneer deck. Highs i cannot recommend with out knowing the music you listen to.

Box will depend on how you answer the questions.

Non wall for sure, thats for later in life. haha I may be just leaving it as wood (MDF), no carpet. Mainly loud, some sq, SQL. haha Rap mainly.

I probably will stay away from skar amps, trying to keep it a non-one company build, so use someone else's amps.

For batteries i was thinking duracell group 31s, same as deka intimidators, but cheaper price and i can get em from sam's club. I was looking at singer and mechman for alternators too, any thoughts?

[CodyHendo]

op

this is how i would go about it

buy nothing at this stage

get a good accurate tape and some cardboard (well worth it as this is not a small build)

mock up the max box you fit, and measure it

try it through the door and another way you might plane to build (now you no the max you fit)

run it through torres or post it up here and someone here will, with an average 14:1 port at say 35hz (this is just a good reference or guide)

so now you will now what the available net you have to work with is

and choose the brand, size and number based off that (and final power of course)

i am pretty set on number and size at this point, and fitting a box should be no problem.

[CodyHendo]

What about using 18 for subs?

I am set on subs at this point, i traded an x-18 in pretty rough shape for 2 good vvx 10s (each in individual 6th order boxes, which i will sell), 2 blown motors and baskets (just waiting to be reconed), and a vvx motor (waiting for a basket and recone). Then i just bought two new ones from the blowout skar was having for 120 each. so i have 4 good ones, and two waiting for recones. So I'm pretty stuck on this setup, and i like the sound of having 6 or 8 subs. haha