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sealed vs ported


gattiboy13

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Sealed can be smaller and provides a different type of bass. Ported will be louder most of the time and requires more space. Also you have to look at your sub to make sure it can be used in a sealed or ported box. I think the sax can but some one should double check me on that. Now both boxes can sound really good if you build them correct. Just don't get a prefab and expect much from that sub

2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d

140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed)

140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL

142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at)

141 on music.

strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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Sealed box if you are trying to save space, looking for an easy/simple build, or don't know what you are doing with ports. You won't have much low end because you will have a rolloff of 12dB per octave. Basically this means that it will be more than twice as loud at 60Hz than it is at 30Hz. That is not balanced at all. However one advantage is low group delay.

Ported is the way to go in terms of both loudness and hitting the lows, you just have to know what you are doing with ports (or find someone else who knows). Don't even mess with prefab ported boxes, they are terrible. Ported enclosures roll off at 24dB per octave, but not until you get below the tuning frequency. If you tune high, you will get very loud but not be able to hit the lows loudly, and your subs will reach their mechanical limits quickly the lower you play below the tuning frequency. If you tune low then you can design it to get a relatively flat response and the low notes will be MUCH louder, but there will not be a huge peak in the response then so you will overall not be as loud.

Ported boxes do take up more space, but low notes are fun. I would rather listen to crazy low notes than a loud system for burping, low frequency notes are the purpose of subwoofers after all, I don't want to be worried if I'm going to be able to hit that low note or not. If you tune low and it still isn't loud enough, then you just have to go with a bigger setup.

Chevrolet Tahoe

Crescendo PWX6 (2) and FT1 (2)

Fi Audio SP4 15" (1), AQ3500D.1 (1)

Enclosure: 4th Order (Ported) 4.5cu ft @26Hz

Mechman Elite 370A & Kinetik HC2000

Sky High 2/0 Wire

Future Plans: (2) 18" @25Hz

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Sealed box if you are trying to save space, looking for an easy/simple build, or don't know what you are doing with ports. You won't have much low end because you will have a rolloff of 12dB per octave. Basically this means that it will be more than twice as loud at 60Hz than it is at 30Hz. That is not balanced at all. However one advantage is low group delay.

Like you said, a sealed box is going to have around twice the output at 60 Hz than it does at 30 Hz, but cabin gain does flatten out how the box will sound quite a bit. Here is a chart of a Sundown SA-12 in a sealed box. The yellow line is the response without cabin again and the red line is the response with approximated cabin gain added in.

sealed-gain_zps9a223a1b.png

The tricky part is trying to figure out just how much cabin gain you are going to get. The best you can do is an approximation, but it will still give you an idea.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Like you said, a sealed box is going to have around twice the output at 60 Hz than it does at 30 Hz, but cabin gain does flatten out how the box will sound quite a bit. Here is a chart of a Sundown SA-12 in a sealed box. The yellow line is the response without cabin again and the red line is the response with approximated cabin gain added in.

The tricky part is trying to figure out just how much cabin gain you are going to get. The best you can do is an approximation, but it will still give you an idea.

But how did you approximate that cabin gain? I didn't think it would be nearly that much or over such a broad range of frequencies either. Also how did you enter that into WinISD, through a Parametric EQ just to change the response curve to what you think it would be?

With each vehicle the cabin gain will be different. I can tell just by ear that in my Tahoe I have a significant amount of cabin gain from roughly 38Hz to 48Hz. This is not from bass boost or EQ, and my enclosure is tuned to 26Hz yet around these frequencies it gets noticeably louder, which leads me to reason that it is cabin gain. I don't have any numbers though because I unfortunately have not been able to get this thing metered yet.

Chevrolet Tahoe

Crescendo PWX6 (2) and FT1 (2)

Fi Audio SP4 15" (1), AQ3500D.1 (1)

Enclosure: 4th Order (Ported) 4.5cu ft @26Hz

Mechman Elite 370A & Kinetik HC2000

Sky High 2/0 Wire

Future Plans: (2) 18" @25Hz

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If you are new to all of this

SEALED:

  • Requires less space
  • More forgiving than ported if you don't get things exactly right
  • Safer for less experienced builders when running at or above RMS handling of subs
  • With next to no wood working skill you can still sound good (good response across wider freq range)

PORTED:

  • More efficient than a sealed enclosure resulting in more output at the tuning frequency
  • Louder when done right

Just to name a few things

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But how did you approximate that cabin gain? I didn't think it would be nearly that much or over such a broad range of frequencies either. Also how did you enter that into WinISD, through a Parametric EQ just to change the response curve to what you think it would be?

With each vehicle the cabin gain will be different. I can tell just by ear that in my Tahoe I have a significant amount of cabin gain from roughly 38Hz to 48Hz. This is not from bass boost or EQ, and my enclosure is tuned to 26Hz yet around these frequencies it gets noticeably louder, which leads me to reason that it is cabin gain. I don't have any numbers though because I unfortunately have not been able to get this thing metered yet.

I learned about modeling cabin gain in WinISD from a thread in their web board, here is the link: http://linearteam.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=winisd&action=display&thread=283

Like you said, each vehicle will be different. Whenever possible, I like to measure the longest internal distance of the vehicle I'm going to be designing & building an enclosure for so I can get the best approximation of cabin gain. For the example I did above I had the cabin gain start at 60 Hz, which is about what you would get in a moderate sized sedan or small SUV.

I'm sure you are right about your Tahoe, its cabin gain is probably going to start kickin' in around 55 Hz or so, so I'm not at all surprised by what you have experienced.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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