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96 4Runner with 2 Fi Q 18s (lots of pics)


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I took a break at this point to do some work around the house. We are redoing the whole first floor, and I am doing a ton of electrical work. I put off a lot of it to get work done on this project before it was dark and 40 degrees out. I ended up staying up all night to finish the projects I had promised to finish, so I have virtually no time to finish this in the morning before leaving to travel back to school, straight to class.

What that means is I have only this picture once I mounted the outer amp

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But what it really means is that I had to throw the wiring and such in temporarily just under the seat

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But I did get a couple shots of everything put together
The blank spot is for the final 550, which I do not have yet (on accident)

Ignore the wires running down the side. Those go to the nest under the seat, until I make my door panels (and eliminate crossovers), at which point it will all be wired correctly and hidden.

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So I got everything thrown in, and did a raw dog tune.
I did not factor in the input/output RCAs rubbing when I mounted the 1500s, as this was not an issue on the 550s I copied. Luckily I had a little wiggle room in my design, and this was solved quickly with a drill.

In this little mixup, I somehow chained the two passenger 1500s together.

As I was driving, I noticed the one sub was barely moving. Although I was already late, I pulled over and did a quick tune with a DMM on the side of the highway. No gain matching or anything.

Upon arrival (90 minutes later), one sub was a little warm, and one was ice cold. Not bad

Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ

My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)

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As soon as I was out of class, I was anxious to tune this thing. Due to my mounting position, I have to pull the sub wires from the inside of the box for tuning. I could pull the speaker leads from the amp, but they would never go in cleanly again. Radiators make this part nice.

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I did an extremely conservative tune. The unit is clean at 0db until 60/62 and is clean at -5db at full volume. I tuned the amps to 0db at 60/62.

Until I install the LC1s, I want to run them at full tilt and see how they handle the power. I ran 0db burp tones for ten solid minutes and they were barely warm. I threw them on the meter, and they did just what I expected, 148 at 37. I am very confident that with proper tuning (a little into clipping for burps) that they will do 150s. I also plan to eventually recone to run these amps at real power. The setup will do 150 eventually, no doubt.

However, I did not build this for numbers by any means. I know that is what people say when they “can’t get loud”, but I am serious. I am still running a sealed box. I don’t know of any sealed boxes (non wall) doing 150s

What I did build this for is great musical range, which I achieved. Once I proved to myself that the setup works, I moved to clean it up, send better power to it all, and “finish” everything in a pretty fashion. I am pretty happy where it is now. I think it looks great, and it sounds amazing. Even the polks on zero gain are crystal clear and loud. I can’t wait to do the doors and gain even more clarity and volume. With an LC1 and a more dangerous tune, I can give a little bit more impressive “demo” when needed, but right now, I can do 145+ for hours straight with absolutely no heating issues. I’m very happy.

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Might even have enough blue light here for me to not do accent strips

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Thank you for tuning in. I know it is not the most exciting build ever, but I hope my copious amounts of pictures made it tolerable and maybe informative for someone.

Thanks again!

Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ

My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)

0a4ee87c-28c8-4bf8-9dfe-5a06b9dea2dc_zps

3e3eb9dd-70f8-4424-ad11-ccebcd929ac4_zps

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Wow. The wire management looks amazing. I am still counting nendo amps.... Lol

Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do that
I can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows

came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream.

oh lawd.

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sooooooo......cleeeeeeeeeean.........

Love it, and what are you using for splitting the RCA's with so many amps?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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sooooooo......cleeeeeeeeeean.........

Love it, and what are you using for splitting the RCA's with so many amps?

Thanks. My years of cable management building servers paid off haha.

Sub amp RCAs are just strapped for now. I did get splitters from SHCA. They have them, just not on their site.

I will have a splitter out the back of the 80prs to split the signal for the 8s and 18s, so I can put an LC1 on each.

I am kind of torn on how I want to do mids and highs. I might just ditch the front and rear separation so I can run everything active, and so I can use the 80prs for all tuning. If so, I'll run tweets on front channel and mids on rear channel (1 tweet amp and 2 mid amps). Everything will be independently controlled by an LC1

The one concept I cannot completely wrap my head around now is how 2 LC1s on split RCAS will work, and how I should tune around that

If I turn the LC1 down on one, the voltage on the other would go up, meaning I would have to tune around that to avoid distortion, or just be aware of it

Yes I have a lot of stereo weight. I build for Smiles Per Gallon not Miles Per Gallon LOLZ

My build - 1996 4Runner with 2 18s - 149+ in a sealed box (with radiators)

0a4ee87c-28c8-4bf8-9dfe-5a06b9dea2dc_zps

3e3eb9dd-70f8-4424-ad11-ccebcd929ac4_zps

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  • 4 weeks later...

damn that wiring! Beautiful job on the entire rear end of that vehicle!

DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGER

Currently Own
4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option

2 - DC 5k

lvl 4 motor

lvl 2 motor

On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said:

this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick.

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Holy eff.. Got amps?!? Lol.. Clean ass wiring job :good:

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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