Looking For Advise On Which Enclosure I Designed To Choose.

[osiris10012]

Hello everyone. This is my first post and I am looking for some advise. I have never designed a ported enclosure, so I am looking for pointers. My dilemma is where to place the port. I have searched and searched, but can't seem to get an answer. I just purchased a Sundown Audio E10 V2. The box I designed is 1.24 cu. ft. total. This is going in a crew cab nissan titan under the rear seats. The ideas I have are to place the port exiting the rear on the drivers side because there is a vent on the passengers side rear wall or have it exit towards the rear passenger door. Here are the basic dimensions of the boxes:

Passenger door exit port:

Box: 53 wide x 6.75 tall x12 deep (not including transmission tunnel rise)

Port: 1.5 wide x 5.25 tall x 11.7 long

Total cu. ft.: 1.24

After port and sub displacement: 1.05

Driver side rear exit L port:

Box: 53 wide x 6.75 tall x12 deep (not including transmission tunnel rise)

Port: 2 wide x 5.25 tall x 17 long

Total cu. ft.: 1.24

After port and sub displacement: 1.03

Pic of the 2 designs I made:

[cOmpressor]

Why not have it coming forward on the passenger side? I've see a few trucks with slot ports coming forward and they sounded pretty good.

[osiris10012]

That is definitely another option I was thinking about, but wasn't sure how it would sound. Glad to hear some positive feedback. I have seen quite a bit about having the port exit towards the passenger door or straight, but really haven't found much on the other options available.

[Joe X]

Look to near to 14 square inches of port area. The first box port area is way low.

[cOmpressor]

I have a box like the secod design in my truck but it has about 8-10" of space before the pass wall. I moved it closer to see how it sounded and it KILLED the output. Much less overall bass and really muddied up the sound. Pulled it back to 8-10 inches and a world of difference. So if you are aiming at the door I would say make sure there is plenty of room for the slot.

One thing you can do is build the box square and equal on each side, have the sub on passengers side with port back like the first pic. Try it and then flip the entire box to the opposite side with sub on the drivers side and slot pointing forward on the passengers side.

[osiris10012]

Look to near to 14 square inches of port area. The first box port area is way low.

I was kind of afraid the first port was to small, but if I used a 2" wide port in that position it would be an inch from the rise for the transmission tunnel. I figured that may cause some problems. So do you think the second port design (2"wide) will give me what I need. I am not to sure how to figure out the cubic inch per cubic feet. I was just using a slot port calculator to determine what I needed. Like I said this is the first time I am designing a ported box so any and all constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.

I have a box like the secod design in my truck but it has about 8-10" of space before the pass wall. I moved it closer to see how it sounded and it KILLED the output. Much less overall bass and really muddied up the sound. Pulled it back to 8-10 inches and a world of difference. So if you are aiming at the door I would say make sure there is plenty of room for the slot.

One thing you can do is build the box square and equal on each side, have the sub on passengers side with port back like the first pic. Try it and then flip the entire box to the opposite side with sub on the drivers side and slot pointing forward on the passengers side.

That is some great info and I am glad you told me because I made a cardboard cut out of the boxes face to design the transmission tunnel cut out and took a measurement from the end of the box to the door panel. It was very close to it. I measured a 3" gap between the box and panel. I was kind of worried that was really close, but with the tight space I have to work with I can't make the box any different in size or I would lose to much internal volume or I will have clearance issues with the sub. I like your idea of testing port locations though. I have an re audio sex 10" in the wife's car that is in a normal square vented box. I could steal that and use it to test port locations before I build the enclosure. Do you think that would be an accurate test considering it would be a different sub? I just don't feel like swapping my sub into that box if it isn't necessary.