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Scion xB front stage


bushroot

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  • 2 weeks later...

Again, probably not the place for it...

It's still too cold out to do fiberglass in the garage. Michigan is a shitty place that way sometimes. I brought some stuff to work, since I'm stuck here all afternoon.

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I used the little plastic tray that came with my tablet, reinforced the edges with some 1/4" dowel.

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Layed up 5 layers of 10 oz. cloth and some epoxy resin (love the pigment, it lets me know when it's all mixed). In 24 hours, she'll be set up and I can build a holder for the Windows tablet. Unfortunately, nothing exists for it outside of a charging base that HP wants $40 for. When this is done, I'll epoxy connectors into the bottom and suede the inside. I haven't decided if the trim ring will be some PVC stock I have lying around or if I want to get all fancy and machine it out of aluminum on the Hurco at work.

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The Scion is at the body shop this week having the bumpers replaced. Some jackass pushed it into a snowbank back in January. So, while I'm waiting to get it back and start sound deadening.

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I gutted the stock stereo. I was going to use an aftermarket mount, but I just feel better about using steel than plastic. The last two photos are a USB hub (obviously) and the volume control for the DSP.

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Man this is looking great! Keep it up, fabrication is awesome!

Funny how the people who have a louder system than you will usually give you a compliment about your setup because they know how much blood, sweat, time, and money you put into it. The people who criticize or try and one up you....have a p.o.s to no system at all and will tell you all about this "other" guys system! Saddley I'm sure if I meet this "other" guy...he will probably tell me he thinks your just as annoying as I think you are!

I'm not compensating, just proud of fabricating!

My build log: 10k center console with 4 DC Audio XL 10's powered by 2 DC Audio 5.0k amps 5 xs batteries and dual DC Power 300xps alts

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/169404-goodvibez-04-dmax-10k-center-console-w4-xl-10s-custom-5ksit-plays/page-19

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i'm really enjoying this build

'93 Firebird Formula V8

H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395

Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4

Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0

G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator

www.youtube.com/TRTC360

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This showed up:

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This is how the audio will get from the tablet to the DSP. This is also why I absolutely needed the volume control that Epsilon never had produced and why I'm terribly thankful to the folks at MiniDSP for sending me a development unit that never made it to market.

So, the tablet is actually a Windows 8 PC in tablet form. It sees the DAC as a USB sound card, outputs digital audio to it. The DAC has a coaxial digital output, bypassing the DAC and outputting raw SPDIF. This is fed to the DSP, bypassing the ADC (Analog to Digital) that most people use. The sound is processed, having never been converted until the DSP spits it out the other end through its own DAC as analog low level signal. This way, I only convert ONCE!

So, I needed a power supply to drive all this electronic madness. I need 12V (not 13.whatever, but 12) for the tablet and 5v for the two powered USB hubs. One USB hub will reside in the OEM head unit chassis, the other in that aluminum rectangular piece which the tablet mount will be attached to. The inner hub will be connected to the tablet, hard drive, and DSP. This is why I used a Windows tablet. I can adjust the DSP on the fly. It will also feed the second powered hub which is for plugging in my phone (for interwebs), memory sticks, or another external hard drive.

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This is a 160 Watt PicoPSU. It accepts 12-19V and outputs everything that a normal ATX computer power supply does (-12, 12, 5, 3.3V). I jumpered the PS_ON connection to COM, which tells the power supply that it is supposed to be on. This is normally done by the computer's motherboard, but since I don't have one of those...

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I had ordered a ATX connector, but it's taking forever to arrive, so I decided to just put the wires through the connectors in the header and solder them directly to the board. If the power supply ever fails, I'll just use the connector when I replace it.

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