Need a little help with a box for 2 15" kicker L3's

[Joe X]

Sure you could probably use 6 4" but that would be impractical and a lot of work, guess you could do 5 and compromise somewhat, here's another options:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_86806-1814-PVC+04600++0600_0__?productId=3135431

You could go with the real thing (PSP), 6" sonotube or you could do a slot port across the bottom which would cost you the wood.

[xile]

Sure you could probably use 6 4" but that would be impractical and a lot of work, guess you could do 5 and compromise somewhat, here's another options:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_86806-1814-PVC+04600++0600_0__?productId=3135431

You could go with the real thing (PSP), 6" sonotube or you could do a slot port across the bottom which would cost you the wood.

I found 6" at menards. When I called they said they didn't carry it I was in the area so I stopped in and sure as shit they had it outside.

Soon pics of new box to follow.

[xile]

Sorry to keep bugging you Joe, if I don't flare the 6" I subtract 1" off your given port length correct?

[CleanSierra]

Cut the hole to outside of the baffle the INSIDE diameter of the PVC. Butt the PVC up to the inside of the box and use a roundover bit on a router to give that edge a flare. You can also do the same on the inside opening of the port. Piece of MDF the inside diameter of the port and flared over.

There's also the heating of the PVC and dog bowl trick.

Flaring the PVC(or wood on the outside)really, really should be done to have the efficiency.

[CleanSierra]

Here's an example:

Inside piece:

Outer edge:

The dark paint on the port makes it a bit difficult to see, but it's got a good rounded over flare on that inner wood piece and outer edge where the port meets up. This box I made the inner baffle the outside diameter so the port slid through, and then the outer baffle the inside diameter of the port so the inside wall of the PVC was perfectly(almost perfectly) flush to the MDF. Then a simple roundover with the router and done. If this box didn't need to be done in only 2 days, I would have used body filler and made the transition from MDF to PVC completely seamless and smoothed over flawlessly. Unfortunately this box has a wicked deadline and I couldn't fit all that work in.

[osiris10012]

Thats a really clever way to flare a port cleansierra. Thanks for sharing that. I would have never thought to use a router. I just assumed the heat and bowl trick was the only way to flare a pvc port.

[Joe X]

Sorry to keep bugging you Joe, if I don't flare the 6" I subtract 1" off your given port length correct?

Never mind, the length I gave is without flares fitted, usually half of the radius of the flare adds to the effective length so you would need to subtract that from the pipe's length, if the radius is too small likely it won't make a difference ( like the method Cleansierra is showing you).

BTW, when using 6" ports you need about a minimum of 6" clearance in front of the ports for proper operation.

[xile]

Thanks a bunch guys. I got a 10' stick of pvc so I think im gonna try the bowl trick. Hopefully ill be posting pics soon.

[xile]

Queztion for you Cleansierra aren't you suppose to space your ports the port diameter away from the walls? Just wanted to know as im getting ready to make my port holes.

Thanks.

[CleanSierra]

Yeah, you're typically supposed to. This box sounds great though without any port noise. The flaring certainly helps and is probably what allows me to get away with it.