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Tower speakers are out of the question. Because once I switch to 5.1 it will be out of uniform,, and have bigger woofers in the front left and right than the rear.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
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  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Try a dual opposed setup. They have no cabinet vibration and have good sound dispersal, less directional, and more room filling sound. I have a dual 15" from empire and love it. Good sq for audio but gets down when needed for movies. Something like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs1202k-1000-watt-dual-12-subwoofer-kit--300-766

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Try a dual opposed setup. They have no cabinet vibration and have good sound dispersal, less directional, and more room filling sound. I have a dual 15" from empire and love it. Good sq for audio but gets down when needed for movies. Something like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs1202k-1000-watt-dual-12-subwoofer-kit--300-766

I will check more into it but that thing is a expensive add my entire system
On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

Try a dual opposed setup. They have no cabinet vibration and have good sound dispersal, less directional, and more room filling sound. I have a dual 15" from empire and love it. Good sq for audio but gets down when needed for movies. Something like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs1202k-1000-watt-dual-12-subwoofer-kit--300-766

I will check more into it but that thing is a expensive add my entire system

Agreed..Possibly design/build your own for less?

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What's your budget? I've been brewing around a couple sites (PE the most) and have kind of come down on the pure acoustic 5F and 8F towers, center, and some decent in wall speakers for the back of the room, with a Dayton audio 15" subwoofer (I was going to build a 3^3 sealed enclosure for it, then run off of a Pioneer VSX-1024-k

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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The plan is to build and design everything myself. I am looking for some tips in that deparment in how to design it to get what I am looking for. As far as inwall speakers, not happening lol. Way WAY to much work to get that in. Here is what I was looking at.

Front left/right Rear left right towers.

7" woofer http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180-8-7-reference-woofer--295-355

4" mid http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs100-8-4-reference-full-range-driver--295-352

1-1/8" tweet http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc28fs-8-1-1-8-silk-dome-shielded-tweeter--275-075

The center channel is going to have the same mid and tweet but this as the woofer

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs125-8-5-reference-woofer--295-353

Passive crossover for them

http://www.parts-express.com/eminence-pxb3-3k5-3-way-speaker-crossover-board-500-3500-hz--290-652#lblReviews

I am still undecideed upon my substage because I am trying to figure out how to get what I want as far as good musical playablility as well as nice low end movie bass

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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I played with the Dayton 12" and it was awesome for music and movie watching. I'm upgrading to the 15" and building the enclosure to hopefully get more low end for the music since I do like to play some decaf in home

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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I played with the Dayton 12" and it was awesome for music and movie watching. I'm upgrading to the 15" and building the enclosure to hopefully get more low end for the music since I do like to play some decaf in home

I was looking at one of their 12's. I don't have a bunch of space to work with so I need to stay lower in cone area. If I go t-line, I might even have to go with a 10 so I can fit it where it will be. I need finish reading up on the design of those boxes, and see if I can create one with a 12, if not then the 10.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

Dayton on PE has a 10 and an 8 woofer. I've heard the 8" woofer in the stock cabinet, my friend has one in his room. It sounded nice but he does have a small room. An 8 or 10 in a Tline might be a good idea. In vehicles I've always favored an ABC enclosure over a tline just because of response, performance, and space. But I have no idea how it would perform in home

Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?

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