skywalker85 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 Whats up everyone! I have an issue with my current system and hope you can help me out. Here's my curent setup: RE Audio SEX12D4 Driver (600watt RMS model) wired down to 2ohms Kicker ZX750.1 Amp Kenwood KDC-X397 Reciever 1.65 Cube Net L Ported Enclosure tuned to 30hz with kerfed port 0 Gauge Amp Kit 10 Gauge Speaker Wire Stock Battery 110 Amp Alternator Amp is giving the driver 600watts right now and it feels weak @ full tilt. I'm getting some flex but its so weak its bothering me. Gets kinda loud @ 30hz and above but looses volume below 30hz. I'm looking for max loudness between 20- 30hz. Do I need a bigger enclosure? Tune lower? I cannot add another driver because of trunk space and weight. Has anyone been crazy loud in frequencies below 30hz off a single 12? If so, how did you accomplish that? My headlights are also dimimg like crazy. I have a 275amp alternator coming in but not sure if this will help with my loudness in the lower frequencies. Anyone with any info please chime in. Really appreciate it my new basshead friends!
ParDeus Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 Sorry to give such a simple reply, but it's mostly in the enclosure. Just recommending a tuning frequency and box size is near worthless. It needs to be modeled for your sub, the power, and the vehicle. Hopefully one of the better box guys will weigh this and give you some input. Is this a trunk car? If not, what is it? I recently had 1 12" Pioneer Premier 1000w rms sub, on 500ish watts, and it straight jammed. Very musical and crushed the lows. However, I went through 5 boxes to achieve that. The irony? After 4 custom boxes, it was some junk prefab that worked the best. It was perfect for THAT vehicle, THAT sub, THAT power. I put a dd 9512 in the same box on 1800w, and it sounded like ass. This was in a trunk.
poorfish88 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 The system you listed should pound pretty good, but no hair tricks are in site. Right now I have one DC XL 12 on an RF 1500bdcp in a Nissan Frontier 01. And it pounds like a beast, and slams the lows. Hopefully the new alt stops the headlights from dimming, you got to get electric right first. But it doesn't sound right with your setup having dimmint problems. Make sure all your connection are tight. AND most important check your gound, it's got to be to the frame with the paint sanded away.
skywalker85 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 Sorry to give such a simple reply, but it's mostly in the enclosure. Just recommending a tuning frequency and box size is near worthless. It needs to be modeled for your sub, the power, and the vehicle. Hopefully one of the better box guys will weigh this and give you some input. Is this a trunk car? If not, what is it? I recently had 1 12" Pioneer Premier 1000w rms sub, on 500ish watts, and it straight jammed. Very musical and crushed the lows. However, I went through 5 boxes to achieve that. The irony? After 4 custom boxes, it was some junk prefab that worked the best. It was perfect for THAT vehicle, THAT sub, THAT power. I put a dd 9512 in the same box on 1800w, and it sounded like ass. This was in a trunk. This enclosure is built just for this driver, for the car and for the power I'm giving it. RE Audio specs say this driver needs 1.6 cubes for compact performance and 2.0 cubes for optimum performance. My current enclosure is 1.65. I wonder if that has anything to do with it. And yes its in the trunk. thx
jarrius Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 When building a box never use the minimum specs if you don't have to IMO. Try building a new box closer to 2 cubes. Also how did you design the box? Did you use the re box calc? If so try Torres it's free and much better then the re box cAlc 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole
Jessica Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 What is the infrasonic or 'subsonic' filter at on the amp? Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13
skywalker85 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 When building a box never use the minimum specs if you don't have to IMO. Try building a new box closer to 2 cubes. Also how did you design the box? Did you use the re box calc? If so try Torres it's free and much better then the re box cAlc I had a guy design/ build it. He used WinIsd
skywalker85 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 What is the infrasonic or 'subsonic' filter at on the amp? I'm not sure. The only dials on the ZX750.1 are LPF, GAIN and BASS BOOST
Guest Posted February 1, 2014 Report Posted February 1, 2014 your enclosure probably isnt ideal for what YOU want, or the woofer is incapable of producing frequencies that low. maybe both. when you tune low, that doesn't necessarily mean you can play low.
skywalker85 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Posted February 1, 2014 What do you guys recommend then? How many cubes would be best for my driver for optimum loudness in the low frequency range? L Ported Enclosure 1.65cubes @ 30hz vs 2.0cubes @ 30hz vs 3.0cubes @ 30hz Whats going to change here? appreciate it guys!
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