Miguels Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Hey miGuels how are you checking for belt slip? I looked under the hood today and didn't see any powder or any type of black sut on the pully or alty itself? Is there another way? I also don't here any type of squeal when starting or running the engine mine would only slip for a second. then my voltage would stabilize.. it really seemed like it wasn't slipping but im sure it was because it only happen when would accelerate with a load on the alt my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyMan Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Well mechman dual idler pully system came in today, that was a surprise. Took 3 days to travel from mechman to San Diego, CA!!!! I'll be putting it in tomorrow!! And I chose a 3inch longer than stock belt!!! Only person who had a gates 3inch longer than stock belt was napa! I searched everywhere too! I was about to give up Interested to see the results, but I don't expect it to do anything. My car has a spring loaded belt tensioner, so I put a ratchet on it, with a short breaker bar, and held a fair bit of tension on the belt with the engine running, still got the same voltage spikes! I can be sitting with the car in park, pick the revs up to 4000, with nothing turned on, gentle acceleration, and the alternator charge light on the dash comes on at ~4000rpm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly1987 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Well I got around too putting the dual idle bracket in! Fairly easy! First impressions is it worked and I'm no longer spiking and putting my amps into protect!! Though I havnt been able to take it for a test drive and actually see how volts do out in traffic!! Stuff came up that's why but I will post another update tomorrow when I'm done driving through traffic on my way to work! That will be the real test! (Stop and go traffic) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 told you you was slipping my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly1987 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Lol yes you were right I was wrong, hey at least I tried and took ppls advice! But tomorrow will be the true test in stop go traffic! Cause that's when the alty really likes to spike! I'll keep this thread updated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly1987 Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Oh wanted too add and maybe it will help ppl out in the future:: My application 99 f150 4.6 v8 with AC ( only needs a inch longer belt than stock belt length!) 3inch turned out to be way way way to long over stock legth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly1987 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Updates: Amp still going into protect when stepping on gas from a dead stop though the highest I saw today was a 15 .1v spike (which shouldn't throw amps into protect but it does) the zx2500 no longer is entering protect it just the zx650.4!! So with that said! I'm going to be grounding the zx650.4 amp with a 1ft run 1/0 to frame instead of 3ft 1/0 gage ground to spare battery! Also I'm going to be grounding alty with 1/0 to front battery! As I havnt done that as of yet ( all I have is 1/0 from positive alty post to front battery) I'm hoping one of these things will stop the the zx650.4 from entering protect!! But I guess it's good news the zx2500 no longer enters protect ( I'm guessing it has a higher tolerance to volt spikes) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P4killer_ Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 So your belt was slipping. So buy a shorter belt and tighten that mofo. Why was it necessary to get a dual idler setup? Unless the factory mounting give you virtually zero belt loop.. The voltage zero load should be fairly consistent. If you have big swings for no reason. Something is wrong. Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly1987 Posted February 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Look at videos on first page to see why a dual idler pully system was needed! The belt can not be any tighter as I would run the risk of over heating bearing at the pulleys! Though it is vary tight right now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 How many batterys do you have? 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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