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Quarter Wave / T-Line tutorial-UPDATED


Forevrbumpn

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Has anyone built a t-line for a Skar EVL65?  I downloaded a program and I believe its way over my head.  I can plug in the numbers from a spec sheet but it spits out info that I don't get.  I haven't build a sub box in years and figured I give it a try, if all else fails I have the box spec sheet from Skar.

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16 minutes ago, Grobrooks said:

Has anyone built a t-line for a Skar EVL65?  I downloaded a program and I believe its way over my head.  I can plug in the numbers from a spec sheet but it spits out info that I don't get.  I haven't build a sub box in years and figured I give it a try, if all else fails I have the box spec sheet from Skar.

What program did you download?

 

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Leonard Audio transmission line software.  Really outdated but free.  I don't have a full grasp of frequency response and sound waves.  I came from the 90's car audio surge and built ported or sealed boxes to manufacturers specs.  I never understood the concepts but having a wood shop I was able to execute just about anything.  My father had a furniture design business that he closed down so I just took over the place on the weekends.

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My other thought is a tapered line which I think I have the box figured out but again, with as little knowledge as I have in these designs I would always defer to someone who does.  I checked out your FB page, really great work.  Furniture quality speaker cabinets would be awesome in the house.

 

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2 hours ago, Grobrooks said:

Leonard Audio transmission line software.  Really outdated but free.  I don't have a full grasp of frequency response and sound waves.  I came from the 90's car audio surge and built ported or sealed boxes to manufacturers specs.  I never understood the concepts but having a wood shop I was able to execute just about anything.  My father had a furniture design business that he closed down so I just took over the place on the weekends.

Ok, I know what you are talking about.  For t-line design I use HornResp, it lot more powerful, and even less easy to use :-{

How much power do you plan on running to your sub?  How low do you want to be able to play?

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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This is going in the family hauler so I'm not going to go overboard.  Looking at either the CT T-300.1 or buying the Skar RP-600.5 so there's only 1 amp.  I bought an SUV and it doesnt have any bottom end, I really don't need a whole lot but having none isn't working for me.  As far as how low, I want to play pop for my kids and I listen to everything other than pop. I'm sure I could get away with a small sealed enclosure but if I'm knocking the dust off the workshop I'd like to try something new.  

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On 6/13/2017 at 1:09 PM, Grobrooks said:

This is going in the family hauler so I'm not going to go overboard.  Looking at either the CT T-300.1 or buying the Skar RP-600.5 so there's only 1 amp.  I bought an SUV and it doesnt have any bottom end, I really don't need a whole lot but having none isn't working for me.  As far as how low, I want to play pop for my kids and I listen to everything other than pop. I'm sure I could get away with a small sealed enclosure but if I'm knocking the dust off the workshop I'd like to try something new.  

Ok, here is an idea for a t-line.  9.5 sq in of line area, 79" long.  This will tune it to about 40 Hz.  The line area is smaller to help keep cone excursion reasonable.  That sub only has a little over 6 mm of xmax, so we have to be careful.  You will have to reverse mount the sub and you will need to set the subsonic filter to right at 40 HZ.  I wouldn't put more than 200 watts to it.  

If it were me, I'd just put it in a sealed box.  

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

alright, for starters this is my first attempt at a tline design let alone build one. that being said i have built a few boxes, and have 8ys exp in wood working so the most intimidating and fun part is the design. now i have gone back and forth from this forum and that forum, i have read most of the actual write ups on tiline theory (most i dont even fully understand) and almost gave up bc i didnt want to waste my time/materials but im too damn stubborn and some guys make it sound so damn easy. so here is my most recent attempt at designing a tline to fit what i have on hand. i know my subs Q's arent the "best" for a tline but like i said its what i have on hand and if i dont like it i can always change it back. i have a sundown sa12 d2ohm with a diamond audio d600.1 currently at 1ohm. it is going in the back of a dodge caravan so i am limited on space, 15.5in tall 18in depth 49.5 width. it can be taller but then would have to lose depth and im not trying to get too crazy. im jsut looking for your honest opinion, will it sound good, does it look structurally sound and not need any bracing, is it too big too small. i like experimenting but thats alot of wood and work just to walk away lol thank you

 

SPKRBOX.png

when i measured my 102 in line i used the longer line coming off the speaker magnet vs the 2 segments. i decided to at least include them for your opinion since it would increase the line etc... i dont want to go much higher than 34-36hz in tuning i do listen to bass heavy electronic music along with my not so bass heavy hip hop and rock

SPKRBOX1.png

the box is to be built 15.5 in tall in 3/4 mdf

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8 hours ago, TonyTrendkill said:

alright, for starters this is my first attempt at a tline design let alone build one. that being said i have built a few boxes, and have 8ys exp in wood working so the most intimidating and fun part is the design. now i have gone back and forth from this forum and that forum, i have read most of the actual write ups on tiline theory (most i dont even fully understand) and almost gave up bc i didnt want to waste my time/materials but im too damn stubborn and some guys make it sound so damn easy. so here is my most recent attempt at designing a tline to fit what i have on hand. i know my subs Q's arent the "best" for a tline but like i said its what i have on hand and if i dont like it i can always change it back. i have a sundown sa12 d2ohm with a diamond audio d600.1 currently at 1ohm. it is going in the back of a dodge caravan so i am limited on space, 15.5in tall 18in depth 49.5 width. it can be taller but then would have to lose depth and im not trying to get too crazy. im jsut looking for your honest opinion, will it sound good, does it look structurally sound and not need any bracing, is it too big too small. i like experimenting but thats alot of wood and work just to walk away lol thank you

when i measured my 102 in line i used the longer line coming off the speaker magnet vs the 2 segments. i decided to at least include them for your opinion since it would increase the line etc... i dont want to go much higher than 34-36hz in tuning i do listen to bass heavy electronic music along with my not so bass heavy hip hop and roc

the box is to be built 15.5 in tall in 3/4 mdf

So your box 14" tall internally?  Is the right?  How wide is the line, looks to be about 5"?  

Where you measured the line length, did you start from the back side of the baffle, or did you start where the motor ends (are you including the 6-5/8" speaker depth in your line or not)?

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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