mgbadboyz Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 Some of you may have seen my old build in my 1990 dakota. Well, long story short, my girlfriend drove it into a lake and flooded the motor with water and lost all oil pressure. She wasnt worth replacing (the truck, not my gf) so i sold it. My s10 i had plans on building next had to go as well due to a dog injury. So now im stuck with this... Yeah, i know.... Poor me lol. ANYWAYS on to the question Im running the same setup as the dodge MINUS the radio. Sundown audio 12 D2 ohm Hifonics Brutus 1200.1D 0/1 gauge wiring Pioneer FHX-500ui Pac Audio OS4 converter Custom box 2 cu. ft tuned to 32hz Bridged to 1 ohm. Amp claims 1200 @1ohm The problem im having is clipping, or atleast what sounds like clipping. Ive matched the gain to 2v which is what my RCA output is. Bass EQ is set to 0 on head unit. Loudness is off. Bass Boost is off on the amp and head unit. Subsonic is set to 35hz. Crossover set to 85hz. The sub sounds great at low to mid volume. Once i get about 3/4 volume (45/62) The sub hits really hard but makes a slight pop on the initial hit of bass. Almost like its jumping to far initially. On a long tone of bass, it sounds fine. Just the initial hit pops. If i dial the amp back a little to remove the popping sound (using the bass knob) , the sub isnt hitting as hard as it should, or what ive seen this sub capable of. Ive seen people flexing doors and windshields with this single sub.... Im hardly shaking the mirror before it sounds terrible. I never had this problem in my Dodge. ANY ideas would be helpful. Thanks, Vic
Rich Schenk Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 How did you set your gains? Did you use a Dd-1, multimeter, or oscilloscope ? On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
mgbadboyz Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Posted February 18, 2014 cheap multimeter. Its not 100% accurate but close
YukonDCXL Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 I had this problem before and I switched amps and the problem went away other then that the new amp would go into protection instead of freaking the sub out. Have you checked your volts to make sure their not dropping to low?
mgbadboyz Posted February 18, 2014 Author Report Posted February 18, 2014 Never checked voltage side from dash gauge but I have noticed this truck doesn't constantly charge at 14v on the gauge...it changes depending on the load. Sometimes 14.. sometimes 12. Depends on lights etc...
YukonDCXL Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 Yeah I have an 07 Yukon and even after a HO alt. and big 3 it seem to go from over 14v to below the 14 just randomly... seems to be after about 10 minutes of driving. I don't know if I trust that factory gauge tho so I ordered the SMD voltage meter that should be here tomorrow.
YukonDCXL Posted February 18, 2014 Report Posted February 18, 2014 It would be worth doing the big 3 to your alt. tho either way. Make sure if you do tho to notice the sensor that the factory ground runs through located about 12 inches from the negative battery terminal and run your 0g through that sensor along with the little wire running along side the factory ground. you can remove the big factory ground but keep that little wire. That sensor is on these new model chevy's and it is a sensor that signals the alt to charge faster when the car is pulling more volts then usual.
mgbadboyz Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Posted February 19, 2014 How would voltage be the issue with a slight clip? Just curious
YukonDCXL Posted February 19, 2014 Report Posted February 19, 2014 Yes, I have seen voltage drop low which causes amp to clip bad, which could do that to your sub. Nott saying that is it but that is the obvious first thing I would check.
jarrius Posted February 19, 2014 Report Posted February 19, 2014 If it's the exact same system you had in your old truck and it did not have any issues in it think. What did you add? I would see a issue being the converter if everything ales is the same. May have a wire lose or something. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.