jr07 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Hey Guys, I'm new to the forum. I've taken on the challenge of building my own system. Currently, the "upgraded" sony stereo stock system in one word, horrible!! Here are the details of what I'm leaning toward: (This is subject to change) First, I need to install a quality amp kit. All recommendations are welcome! I was planning on doing the big 3. I checked the trucks manual and found the battery is 750 cold cranking amps (Is this sufficient with my plans?) and the stock alternator pushes 220 amps. The wire run to the battery has a 240 amp fuse on it. Looking through the bay of the engine, I found that the wire is run from the alternator into the trucks main wiring harness. It eventually branches back out and onto the battery. My only thought on a solution, if I want to do the whole big 3, is to disconnect the wire that is currently connected to the alternator, run my own 0 gauge wire, add at least a 240 fuse to the new wire no more than a foot from the battery terminal. From there, I need to run the power wire all the way to the back cab of the truck and into a distribution block. Branch the power off into both amps. I'm keeping the stock head unit currently in the truck. It's a touchscreen with nav, plenty of features that I like. It looks like the only way to integrate the sync, bluetooth, steering wheel control, ect is to run everything (All amps, speakers) through an interface. Some I've found are: LCI8, Kicker Sum8, JL Clean Sweep/SSI Combo. (Should I use a 3 port distribution block to provide power for the interface? I did see a few ford owners tap into a fuse (#38) to provide power) There is an amp located under the center console which I can tap into the wires and run into the interface (LCI8 for instance). Mids and High Amp: Pioneer GM-D8604 4 channel allowing 100 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms Front Door Speakers: Polk DB 6501 Components (100 watt RMS @ 4 ohms) Back Door Speakers: Polk DB 571 5x7inch Coaxials (60 watt RMS @ 4 ohms) Bass Amp: Sount Qubed Q1-1200 D class (run at 870 x 1 @ 2 ohms) Subs: 2 Sundown SA 8 V2's (500 watt RMS) run into the amp @ 2 ohms. Bought 4 rolls (6 inches x 25 ft ) of U Seal Roofing Repair for dampening material of back wall and all doors. I plan on building an amp rack on the back wall behind my back seat. Any comments or suggestions, I really appreciate it! Thanks, As soon as I start the build, i can provide video or pictures to show the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popwarhomie Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 $40k truck and you are going to use roofing material as deadening??? Why not buy D4 sa-8s and run them at 1ohm? 2010 Focus coupe- 8 12" wall. 157.5@46hz 2016 Focus ST - SQ build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I hope you saved your receipt for the roofing material cause you won't be need it in your truck And get d4 subs so you can run your amp at 1ohm. You won't have a problem with the subs Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr07 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I've watched a couple of different vids online and the roofing material looks like it does the same thing although it looks to be a little thinner than the dynamat. Everything I've learned about audio has been in the past 2 weeks. I'm learning as I go. I dont want to rattle my truck apart. A friend referenced the an SA 8 V2 about 3 months ago and just decided to put 2 in. I know the amp would push out more power @ 1 ohm, but I think the 2 ohm setup will be 1000x's better than what's in there now. To set the gain for the sub, I'm gonna use a 40 hertz track and use the multimeter to set a voltage of 46. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr07 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I've watched a couple of different vids online and the roofing material looks like it does the same thing although it looks to be a little thinner than the dynamat. Everything I've learned about audio has been in the past 2 weeks. I'm learning as I go. I dont want to rattle my truck apart. A friend referenced the an SA 8 V2 about 3 months ago and just decided to put 2 in. I know the amp would push out more power @ 1 ohm, but I think the 2 ohm setup will be 1000x's better than what's in there now. To set the gain for the sub, I'm gonna use a 40 hertz track and use the multimeter to set a voltage of 46. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr07 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I've watched a couple of different vids online and the roofing material looks like it does the same thing although it looks to be a little thinner than the dynamat. Everything I've learned about audio has been in the past 2 weeks. I'm learning as I go. I dont want to rattle my truck apart. A friend referenced the an SA 8 V2 about 3 months ago and just decided to put 2 in. I know the amp would push out more power @ 1 ohm, but I think the 2 ohm setup will be 1000x's better than what's in there now. To set the gain for the sub, I'm gonna use a 40 hertz track and use the multimeter to set a voltage of 46. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr07 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I'm sure both you guys have more experience/knowledge. The d4's are the same speaker just the later version and they have a dual impedance of 4 ohms rather than the 2 ohm the sa v2 has? The initial wiring I was going to do was run parallel on each speaker bringing it down to 1 ohm and then series bringing it back up to 2 ohms to the amp. My thought with the D4's is to run parallel on each speaker bring it down to 2 ohms and then parallel again bringing it down to 1 ohm correct? Is a 4ohm DVC better to start with than a 2ohm DVC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneerchuck Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 The only advantage of D4 over D2 coils is that you can draw more power from amp without voiding any warranties. You are correct in how to wire the subs up though. If you're just looking for a little bump then running at 2 ohms will work just fine for you. As for sound deadening, I would recommend you return the roofing material and get a product that was engineered to be put on a vehicle and not a house roof. That is of course up to you though. Now when you do the Big 3 you could always leave the stock wire from the alt in place and just add your own wire to it. It will keep the resistance down and give a little more room for current to flow. Plus it will just make things easier. As for pulling power off of a fuse, do not do that, you run the risk of fucking something up with all the computers in the truck. Just run a separate run of (+) from the battery to your interface. Or you might be able to find a distro block with enough outputs to provide for the 2 amps as well as the interface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregorio253 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 With the sa 8s the rattle shouldn't be too bad I have a 2008 f150 super crew and the only noticeable rattle I get is from the over head compartment and a little from the doors but I wouldn't recommend roofing material I'm not telling you to go spend all kinds of money on dynamic but I recommend something other then roofing material but you shouldn't get much rattle I'm running two as 10s on 1800rms ported to 33hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jr07 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Appreciate the info chuck. I'm attempting to limit mistakes with the help of others experience/knowledge. I decided to go with the recommendation of the SA 8 D4. I figure I could always turn it down. The big 3 items I'm using: 0 gauge Cadence wiring, 4 pair of x-scorpion 0 gauge ring terminals, rosin core lead free solder, and x-scorpion battery terminals. Can anyone recommend a 4 channel amp that would go well with the Polk DB 6501 Components (100 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) & Polk DB 571 Coaxial (60 watts RMS @ 4 ohms)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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