Pioneerchuck

ABS plastic will shatter if you're putting out some serious air. If you have a daily system then plastic will work just fine. If not then a piece of steel is best, just bring it to a metal shop and have them cut the pieces you need and then bolt them in place.

They already did.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/about

17,492

Well that was quick. Got the offer put in at 1130 and had an email in about 45 minutes. They actually offered me a lower price than what I had originally requested. Very very satisfied with this purchase!! Anyone thinking about it, just go ahead and put in your request.

Just put in an offer for the Metra DP-3003, I'll let you know if they accept or if they counter. Pretty excited.

Definitely a great buyer. After a couple pictures and some time he had the money sent through PayPal. One of the easiest transactions I've ever had. Thanks again man.

It wouldn't hurt to have another smaller battery in the back for your amp. Maybe something like an XS Power d375.

If you're hoping to run a dedicated 16v system then you will need a 16v battery bank, step down module for your vehicles electrical system, and you'll need to have the alt rebuilt to handle a 16v output.

This is awesome!

Glad they got there. Thanks for the feedback!

It's a pretty good backup camera. Installed one on an 03 malibu a while back and it worked out great. Has pretty good night vision and clarity both day and night. Id recommend it.

To be completely honest, if I were you, I'd get an all inclusive kit for your vehicle instead of piecing different items together. I would recommend a kit from www.xkglow.com or www.ledunderbody.com I ran the million color underbody/wheel well/interior/under the hood/and bed lighting in my F150 all from LedUnderbody and just installed a XK kit last night and loved the ease of installation.

Yeah I had my 2 XL 10s inverted in my F150 and I just left that gasket on and it worked like it should. It also gave me a nice armrest that was shiny and sexy. Lol

Lol those X's are gonna laugh at you on the 2200. Had two in a blazer hooked up to an AQ 2200 and they barely moved.

Im so glad these are coming back!! Just ordered my self one to start with another soon to come!

I would recommend getting a larger alt before buying a shit load of batteries.

This is awesome!! And if yous guys started offering Sundown and Fi, I'd never need another website...Lol

They are M6

I second the claim. If you can not do that then JB Weld that shit...Lol

The 2 12s will give you more cone area than the 1 15. So if you've got an amp that'll push both 12s with decent power then id say go with the 12s.

The SD sub was meant more for a ported enclosure that had less depth in the box that way it could be mounted behind something like a truck seat. As for amp choice, if you have the more powerful amp already Id say go for it that way when you upgrade you wont have to upgrade power and subs. If you go more power now all you have to do is turn down the gains.

You still have yet to answer what you have the sub wired to.... As for the ported box your "modeling software" told you just sounds absolutely horrible. Just cutting a hole in a box and making it 1/2" long will not be anywhere near effective enough for the sub. You wont have proper air space, port area, or sq" of port. As for your sub, at what frequencies are you having good sound at and at what frequencies are you having not so good sound at? A DD-1 is ~ $150.00 An O-scope is anywhere from ~$100.00 - in upwards of $1,000.00

Alright, first off the box might be a tad too small for the sub but it shouldnt have that much of an affect on it. 2nd, you never said what you had the sub wired at. If you are wired too low then you could be feeding it way too much power and causing the small box + too much power to overload the sub. 3rd, the light is never the way to tell if you are clipping or not. Those lights on the remotes are never on point. You need to get a hold of a DD-1 or a O-Scope and check to make sure you are not clipping the sub to hell. If you are clipping the sub then that could definitely cause the sub to overload. But first you need to scope the amp to see if its clipping then you need to figure oout what you have the sub wired to.

Were you able to measure the amp for clipping or are you going off of a clip light on a knob? If you're going off the knob then Id say borrow a DD-1 or an O-scope and see if the deck and then the amp is clipping. Also is the box .4 cubes after displacement or before?

Shittt...I didn't even know there were still some left. Lol could you also PM me about 2 10s. If you have D2 that'd be great if not I'll take some info on some D4s if you have them of course.