Amp/wiring/sub ?'s

[C_vaughn]

Hello everyone brand new here, so sorry if I put this topic in the wrong place. Got quite a few questions about my install.

For starters I picked up a slightly used set of American Bass tnt-1244's in a ported enclosure (Not 100% on tuning believe is somewhere between 33-35hz) , and also a Audiopipe ap-15001d-(plan on upgrading to sundown or a dc later on) with all the wires which are 4ga. and monster rcas for under $300. I was siked until i realized my stock bose system in my 99 maxima is a pain in the ass to deal with . I planned on just swapping the stock HU out and hooking up the subs. Seems nothing is compatible with these speakers with there 1ohm power rating. I researched bypassing the amps and read that could cause your amplifier in the HU to burn up (I have a Kenwood KDC_352u). So I invested on replacing the Bose speakers.

Picked up a set of kenwood kfc-p709ps components for up front, a pair of kfc1694ps 3ways for the rear deck and also a kicker zx650.4 4 channel amp.(<=== good choice? picked it up new for under 200) Now finally my ?'s sorry for the ramble lol, how would I hook this up properly? Do I have to bypass my Bose amp?

I have had 2 systems in the past and hooked em up myself with no problems I feel confident i can do it myself with proper guidance.

I also plan on doing the big 3 but can decide to do another batt. or just get a HO alternator?

Again I do apologize if this is the wrong forum to post this in. Any help would be much much appreciated, thanks.

[WastedTalent]

If i read that right...

Bypass your bose amp. means you'll need a line out converter. Your HU should give you... 6? 8? some wires, you hook up to a line out converter. That'll give you RCA's to plug into aftermarket amps (kicker, audiopipe, whatever else you got). Can go with many different converters, just make sure it has all the channels. Don't get a 2 channel cause that'll only work for 2 channels. You want your 4 doors plus subs so.. need at least 6.

Yes, that means your bose amp will be just a paperweight in your car, unless you can get it out.

As far as big 3... do it. Doesn't matter what else you do, do that.

Another batt or ho alt? Well, do you have an AGM up front? If not, I'd suggest getting one of those first. Biggest you can fit. Then it's up to you.

[C_vaughn]

My HU has 2 sub pre's and 4 for speakers, so i just get a line out converter and hook it up directly to the back of the HU rca pre out then hook amp's to converter aswell? Also the harness I bought came with 4 rca's on it would I leave those un-plugged? I also read about just runnign a jumper wire from the input wires to the output wires skipping out the amp?

[C_vaughn]

And as far as batter up front I just bought a brand new one right before I bought the sub's at that time i had no intentions of buying anything but its an advanced auto parts gold series battery there best battery idk how it rates with others, could throw it in the trunk then put something bigger up front. But wouldn't a bigger alt. give a good enough constant charge to not have to do that?

[WastedTalent]

aftermarket amps require RCA (a few are optical or whatnot). factory head units do not give RCA. Just speaker wires, so you wire those speaker wires into a converter. convert will take those speaker wires and output into RCA. RCA into amp, yada yada yada. So unless you have an aftermarket head unit (maybe i skipped that? Idk), you will need a converter.

Head unit>Converter>aftermarket amps.

That is if it's how I described. If it's not, then... that's another story. If it does have RCA outputs, it'd just be Head unit>Aftermarket amps. No converter needed.

The battery...for audio, you want AGM. It's not a brand, it's a type. Only about 15 companies make them (lil exagguration I'm sure but yea). And if you're just gonna do 1 battery, you want the biggest, best you can get. Brand doesn't necessarily matter ALL that much (although there is difference in brands). Just make sure AGM. So if your AAP gold series isn't AGM, I'd recommend going and getting an AGM. I realize, $$ but... just my 2 cents.

As far as the alt, idk how to really answer that. Just know that you need an alt that's "too big" as eventually you'll probably upgrade, and if it's too busy running the car's electrical system, it's not charging the battery so therefore, eventually... dead batt. Or it'll "overload" itself and wear out faster (why you see stock alts fail so quickly in cars that have systems. can't handle the upgraded demand)

Hope that all makes sense.

[hazestorm23]

If you replaced all speakers with a new head unit just run wires to each speaker. The harness you bought is to wire up a new head unit and still use the stock amp but like you mentioned Bose uses different ohm ratings for the speakers they use thus why you shouldn't use the stock speaker wires. So in short. Make 4 runs. 1 to each speaker and to wire up a sub amp buy a hi input to rca converter pac-1 makes a good one. Or does your head unit not have rca outputs

[C_vaughn]

I have a Kenwood Kdc-352 HU i put it in there that I have an aftermarket one sorry I didnt make it more clear, but yes it has 2 sub pre outs and 4 pre outs for the speakers so do i just run rcas from amp to rca's and leave the ones that came with the harness off?

[C_vaughn]

aftermarket amps require RCA (a few are optical or whatnot). factory head units do not give RCA. Just speaker wires, so you wire those speaker wires into a converter. convert will take those speaker wires and output into RCA. RCA into amp, yada yada yada. So unless you have an aftermarket head unit (maybe i skipped that? Idk), you will need a converter.

Head unit>Converter>aftermarket amps.

That is if it's how I described. If it's not, then... that's another story. If it does have RCA outputs, it'd just be Head unit>Aftermarket amps. No converter needed.

The battery...for audio, you want AGM. It's not a brand, it's a type. Only about 15 companies make them (lil exagguration I'm sure but yea). And if you're just gonna do 1 battery, you want the biggest, best you can get. Brand doesn't necessarily matter ALL that much (although there is difference in brands). Just make sure AGM. So if your AAP gold series isn't AGM, I'd recommend going and getting an AGM. I realize, $$ but... just my 2 cents.

As far as the alt, idk how to really answer that. Just know that you need an alt that's "too big" as eventually you'll probably upgrade, and if it's too busy running the car's electrical system, it's not charging the battery so therefore, eventually... dead batt. Or it'll "overload" itself and wear out faster (why you see stock alts fail so quickly in cars that have systems. can't handle the upgraded demand)

Hope that all makes sense.

Have an after market HU, and thank you for your reply