Maintain Factory Head Unit features using LC7I processor

[jr07]

I'm using an LC7I Audio Control processor in my build to maintain my factory head unit accessories. I'm tapping into the system at the factory amp (the output to the speakers). My truck came stock with component's in the front doors. My question is this....the LC7I has 4 channels; can I link the tweeters front left and front right into the input with the front left mid and front right mid? Or should I bite the bullet and leave the tweeters connected to the factory amplifier?

Thanks

[SavantStrike]

Depending on how the factory speakers are set up, if the crossovers aren't electronic and in the amp, somewhere in the circuit you should be able to tap into the pair of wires that feed the XO's and get both the mids and highs in one fell swoop. A lot of factory audio usually has pretty rudimentary crossover work on it, like a single cap in line with the tweeters for a first order crossover and the woofers run full range, so in that case the woofer signal is a full range signal.

[BoomZoom808]

For the best sound you will want to tap in to all 6 channels tweeter, mid and a full range this will sum the signal and give you the best possible sound. What vehicle is this by the way?

Channel Summing: The LC7i has the ability to sum together multiple input channels (4 or 6) from the factory source unit into 2 channels. This is handy when the factory system has multiple, actively crossed-over signals sent from the OEM source unit or amplifier(s). For example, in some vehicles there is an actively crossed-over tweeter, midrange, and woofer all in the front of the vehicle. The LC7i lets you take all of those signals and sum them together to get a high-quality, full-range, pre-amp signal without the use of any additional cables or hardware.

[jr07]

Appreciate the responses; I've been trying to wrap my mind around this subject.

The build is for a 2013 Ford F150 Supercrew with Navigation/Sync & the Sony "upgraded" sound system. The factory amp is underneath the center console. I removed the entire console and took some pictures. I'm fairly new to the site and don't know how to upload pictures for visual.

Below is the wiring which runs off the amp and to the speakers.

Speaker wire detail
Center Front Speaker on Dash (+) Green, (-) Gray/Yellow
Driver Front Speaker (+) White, (-) White/Brown
Driver Front Tweeter (+) Green/Orange, (-) Gray/Orange
Passenger Front Speaker (+) White/Purple, (-) White/Orange
Passenger Front Tweeter (+) Purple/Orange, (-) Yellow/Orange
Driver Rear Door (+) White/Green, (-) Brown/Yellow
Passenger Rear Door (+) Brown/White, (-) Brown/Blue
Sub Dual Voice Coil
1) (+) Purple/Green, (-) Green/White
2) (+) Green/Purple, (-) Gray

I'm going to search the site to learn how to upload pictures to provide a visuals.

If I am following, the amp potentially separates the actual speaker from the tweeter (since the tweeter has it's own outputs).

[jr07]

By the way, I have a forum I started on the f150 site that's been for a little while.

http://www.f150forum.com/f38/stereo-build-2013-ford-f150-fx4-249597/index6/

[BoomZoom808]

I would tap in to the tweeters, front speakers, and the sub channels. It would help if you knew what frequency went to each speaker but that info might not be out there yet since your truck is new.

[jr07]

Here's the equipment I have:

Polk Audio DB6501 6 1/2 Components (100 watt RMS @ 4 ohms)

Polk Audio DB571 5x7 inch (60 watt RMS @ 4 ohms)

Polk Audio PA4000x4 (400 watts @ 4 ohms)

Sundown SA 8 V2 D4 (2) (500 watts @ 1 ohm)

Sound Qubed Q1-1200 D class amp (1200 watts @ 1ohm)

[ham4864]

great unit i use a older model LC6(got it on ebay cheap)for my bmw and the way the tweeters are connected in line with my door speakers i left them alone. But other wise sounds 100% better. Soon to get the Audioncontrol LCQ-1