bass_lord Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 I bought 2 Fi BTL 18's for $300. I was running 4 Audiopipe 15 TXX-BF ... i was using 2 SPL Gorilla 5500/1 to power them... they are suppose to be 3200 RMS... But we all know thats not true... but i recently checked into getting 2 Hifonics Brutus BRZ 2400... it says the hifonics are CEA-Complaint... so i know i getting at least 2000 watts per amp... but the real question is do the SPL gorilla 5500 put out at least 2000 watts .. because if they put out at least 2000 i wont buy the hifonics brutus amps.... Im not trying to start a versus thread just wanting a straightforward answer on which amp is better for my new babies...
wccfan12 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 If you're gonna throw down the money for 2 Hifonics Brutus amps I would just save a hundred more bucks or so and look for a used 3500-4k amp on here or other forums like CACO. I got my DC 3.5k used for like 500 bucks off a member on here and it's so worth it to me. I used to have a HIfonics Brutus 1700.1 and its a good amp for the money but super power hungry and got really warm playing music for longer periods. I don't know about the SPL gorilla amps but from seeing gut shots of them before I would say ditch those and definitely save for a quality amp. THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER -Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser -4 skar vvx 12's (version 1) -Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0 -1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood -1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear -Re audio/soundstream mids and highs -Hifonics Zues 600.4 -DC Audio 3.5k
fox_racin4 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 Which btls are they? Any pics? Not sure in your experiance But 2000rms is fuck all on a btl lol And no your amps are not worth keeping. You have good subs, get good power for them. Then the electric to back it up 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole
bass_lord Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Posted March 18, 2014 They are the BTL ufo style magnet... and i already upgrade the Big 3
wccfan12 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 I would get batts and alt before you buy the amp but that's just me. From my personal experience you'll burn up subs quicker without the electrical to support a 3500-4500 rms amp. You'll be happier you did it in the long run trust me.. THE ANTHRACITE DYC CRUISER -Fully dipped anthracite grey pt cruiser -4 skar vvx 12's (version 1) -Mechman 240 amp alt -Big three in Cadence 1/0 -1 deka intimidator g31 blacktop under the hood -1 C&D 140ah Batt & 1 C&D 55ah batt in the rear -Re audio/soundstream mids and highs -Hifonics Zues 600.4 -DC Audio 3.5k
fox_racin4 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 Fully loaded? Good subs like i said. Will take 2000rms allllll day long. I ran 7k to one of mine... No issues as long as you keep everything incheck They take slot of power 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole
Jhunt94 Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 If you're gonna throw down the money for 2 Hifonics Brutus amps I would just save a hundred more bucks or so and look for a used 3500-4k amp on here or other forums like CACO. I got my DC 3.5k used for like 500 bucks off a member on here and it's so worth it to me. I used to have a HIfonics Brutus 1700.1 and its a good amp for the money but super power hungry and got really warm playing music for longer periods. I don't know about the SPL gorilla amps but from seeing gut shots of them before I would say ditch those and definitely save for a quality amp. ^I agree, you need to just save up for a good used amp and also you are one lucky person to find two BTL 18's for $300 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter
jarrius Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 http://www.cea2006.com/cea2006.htm That is what cea is. Now as others have said just because a brand is cea compliant does not mean it's a good amp just means SOME ware on it it will show a average power output at about 1%tdh. It does not state that the amp wil sound good or last long or any of that. IMO don't get the hifonics get your electrical up to par if it is not then get a good amp. I have heard the hifonics you where looking at on 2 SA 12's and 2 X12's. Also the same subs on a saz 2500. Both sets of subs sound so much better on the saz then they ever did on the hifonics. They still sound good but not as good as the saz but box also has a lot to do with it to. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole
Guest Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 CEA means absolutely jack. hifonics amps are not good. dont bother with them. what amps you can run depends on what voice coils your btl's have.
poorfish88 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 Bro get a good amp DC, SQ, SA,DD and ton of other brands. You have awesome subs and your treating them like scrubs. Kranny called right. CEA=nothing.
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