fufhubbin Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 i have this amp. actually its the old school one thats black and have the hifonics in the block letters that lights up . how can i test it?? i have the orion hcca 10.4 but only have 4 gauge wire atm with a 60 amp fuse under the hood by the batter. so its like cutting off if i go above 800watts rms at 2 ohms... i just ordered 0 gauge with a 250 amp fuse . hopefully this will open the flood gates Not actually blowing the 60 amp fuse? no the fuse up front hasnt blown but the amp has cut out like 4 times when i was pushing it harder then the 700rms . the amp stayed lit up even when it cut out and alls i had to do was turn the deck off then back and and it works again... what do you think my problem. It has done this 4 times or so . 1 time it was after playing it hard for about 45min and i kept turning it a lil higher and another time it was after 2 second when a song came on that was bass bosted i think. but as long as i keep it under the 700 rms it has played for 2 hours no issues. why do u you think its doing this? protecting the fuse up front.. once again this amp doesnt have any fuses that i can see ORION HCCA 10.4 2000 watts RMS 4000 watts max hifonics brutus 2600 bxi Alpine IDA -305 Digital receiver 0 gauge power wire 250 amp fuse 800 watt BUTTKICKER BASS SHAKER Kicker zx-400 amp to power buttkicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritch40 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 hifonics 2600w amp is like what, $300? and has the korean 2000w board. korean 2000w board = soundqubed 2200. which has been tested by the owners of soundqubed to put out that power. soundqubed is $430. hifonics is $130 cheaper, and is "supposed" to do 400w more? what a joke. cheaper amp = cheaper internals cheaper internals = less power cheaper components usually also lead to a significantly shorter life span. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ritch40 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 if the fuse up front isn't blowing you have an issue with the amp. a fuse cant bottle neck current. they either allow the current to pass or they blow. It is a safety device pure plain and simple. if you have a 60 amp fuse and it has not blown then the amp has yet to draw more than 60 amps. I look at your grounds and the rest of the power wireing for corroded connections and possibly bad wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 when i was pushing it harder then the 700rms I'd like to hear how you knew you went past 700 watts, which tools did you use to measure the output? if the fuse up front isn't blowing you have an issue with the amp. have you ever heard of slow blow? what about cold resistance and voltage drop value? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 i have this amp. actually its the old school one thats black and have the hifonics in the block letters that lights up . how can i test it?? i have the orion hcca 10.4 but only have 4 gauge wire atm with a 60 amp fuse under the hood by the batter. so its like cutting off if i go above 800watts rms at 2 ohms... i just ordered 0 gauge with a 250 amp fuse . hopefully this will open the flood gates Not actually blowing the 60 amp fuse? no the fuse up front hasnt blown but the amp has cut out like 4 times when i was pushing it harder then the 700rms . the amp stayed lit up even when it cut out and alls i had to do was turn the deck off then back and and it works again... what do you think my problem. It has done this 4 times or so . 1 time it was after playing it hard for about 45min and i kept turning it a lil higher and another time it was after 2 second when a song came on that was bass bosted i think. but as long as i keep it under the 700 rms it has played for 2 hours no issues. why do u you think its doing this? protecting the fuse up front.. once again this amp doesnt have any fuses that i can see You're doing something wrong. It has nothing to do with that 60 amp fuse up front. How are you estimating 700 watts? If you're cutting out and going in protect you have issues somewhere, check all of your wiring. You said you were wired @ 2 ohms, it's rated at 1900... So it probably puts around 1200ish RMS just for a reasonable guess. I'm curious to see how you can say that you're feeding exactly 700, 800 that you've said in 2 posts now. How have you set your gains? Odds are, you need to do a lot of reading and get things set up correctly. Even being a cheap amp, it shouldn't be protecting at 2 ohms and gains set correctly. Hell, I used to run a BRZ @ .5 nominal for like 6 months without an issue. But any cheap amp is always a ticking time bomb subject to die at any time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Amps cutting out because the ground is bad Paint should be sanded away and the ground should be so secure you can pull on it without it moving at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbg Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Its the same thing with all the cheap amps. When you have one your like " fuck this thing is killing it" then down the line at some time you get a good high end amp and see the difference. 01 focus se 110 amp alt Big 3 sky high and stinger hpm ofc 1/0 Super start platinum AGM (starting) 2 runs of 1/0 Execution audio front to back Kenwood double DIN DDx271 A pillars- orion 4" super tweeter and 2-1" alpines. Orion xtx 64 in the front doors 2:1 4th order bandpass Sealed off trunk Digital designs deadener on roof/ rear deck Orion hcca 12s (black coils) Orion xtr3700.1 Orion xtr250.2 mid/highs All sky high 1/0 in trunk dual runs(power/ground) Sky high dual 1/0 inputs 2 xs power D3100 in back Sky high batt blocks Rose audio batt blocks Stinger volt meter All sky high 1\0 fuse and holders Db link remote/ rca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Its the same thing with all the cheap amps. When you have one your like " fuck this thing is killing it" then down the line at some time you get a good high end amp and see the difference. this guy has seen the light THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohmboy Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 has anybody tested to see the real rms i keep looking but i cant find any actual tests? i bought one couple months ago but my electrical aint even close.. but it did get my 2 x 18s moving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldeneye4564 Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Its the same thing with all the cheap amps. When you have one your like " fuck this thing is killing it" then down the line at some time you get a good high end amp and see the difference. this guy has seen the light i was the same way when i had an AP 1500 mini for awhile. then i got the sundowns. lol. no contest. bought good amps from then on. I RREEALLY ANGRY WIT U PHOTOBUCKET. HAD TO USE DROPBOX NOW HOLYYYYYY. Wanna ride bikes? Quote On 9/16/2017 at 3:28 AM, Jake Pace said: Oh i know how a 12v system works I did take 3 years of electronics in High school hands on and some in college and also worked on cars in college an always got A's to B's in each class. But oh well enough dealing with ppl who have probably not even lived as long as ive been into electronics! On 7/8/2013 at 4:01 AM, Banshee421 said: Do horns get low Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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