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Need help, new system in Subaru Crosstrek


Nubster

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Posted

I have the HU installed...a Kenwood DDX470. Looking to replace the front speakers and add an amp. The doors hold 6.5" and the dash as locations for tweeters in the corners firing up into the windshield. I know this is a poor location for tweeters, I wasn't sure if there was any use for the location or not. If I go with components, I have no problem installing them in the A-piller or into the door panel.

Is there any point replacing the rear door speakers? Also 6.5.

Suggestion on an amp?

I plan to deaden the front doors to start and I'll do the rest of the car in sections as budget allows. I was thinking about using the SDS method.

Budget right now is about $500. Might be able to squeeze out $600 total.

Subwoofer and amp to be added later as well and will have it's own budget when the time comes.

Posted

My personal opinion here. If you are replacing the speakers first and then later on getting the sub I would replace all of them. I say this because you will get a more "full" sound stage since there will be no sub in the back. I think that once you add the sub it will or can take away the rear speakers depending on what it is and how loud it is. i have two component sets up front and 6.5's in my rear door but dont hear them when i play full tilt. Of course then again I dont hear the fronts too much either. Amp wise i like DC but thats because thats what i have right now. Crescendo or CT sounds 4 channels are good also. I also ran a JL 600/4 but that is a little high price with that budget.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177477-slowboring-07-trailblazer-build/

Pioneer DEH-80PRS
PRV 8MR400-NDY (eight)

PRV TW350Ti (6)
Sky High 1/0 OFC, 12 gauge and 8 gauge
TM Metalworkz battery terminals

120 sqft Hushmat
XS Power D3100 (6)
Singer 350 Amp Alt

Singer 320 (2)
American Bass SQL3200

JL Audio JX360/4

Crossfire XS 8K (2)

DC Audio XL 15s (6)

VbjgkeI_zpsc016cd1e.jpg

Posted

With the tweeters in the front dash they wont sound bad but that is not the optimal placement for them. A pillars would work best. As far as component sets go there are a lot to choose from. SQ, Crescendo, Sundown, Skar, RF and then they go up from there. For the amp pretty much the same companies, also MB Quart has some good A/B amps which is what I have and it works really well.

2001 Saturn L200
-Sony MEX-BT4100P
FRONT STAGE:
- (4) Crescendo PWX 6
- Cadence XA250.2
SUB STAGE:
-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)
-Crescendo BC2k
ELECTRICAL:
- Singer 240A alt

- XS Power D3400
- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire
- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gauge
Build Log: Click Here

Scores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw

Posted

I remember years ago when I was into car audio I ran a set of Infinity components. I can't remember what they were. I remember they were a greenish plastic like material and I thought they kicked ass. I ran them off a small Clarion amp, which I actually still have. It's a 2 channel 30w rms so not a powerhouse but maybe something I can use again. I don't need a high power system...just something a step or two above stock. That would definitely save some money in the budget and might let me start exploring a sub and amp setup sooner than later.

Thanks for the advice so far. I'll look into all that stuff now and see what I can come up with. I haven't figured out how much it will cost to deaden the front doors yet, I'm thinking <$100, another $100 for wiring for one amp. Not sure if I'll do the big 3 or not. I guess it certainly can't hurt anything. Would it benefit a low powered audio system dramatically? I guess it's something I can do at a later time but I'll see where it fits in the budget.

Posted

That Rockford amp looks like a good option...or something similar. I could run the front speakers and bridge the rear channels for a small sub. 200w rms isn't much but maybe for a small 8" sub. it might be just right. I don't need to rattle the fillings out of my teeth...not anymore anyways. Those days are over. I'm looking for more of a SQ build. Thanks for the links.

Posted

Looking at these Pioneer TS-D1720C components. Not sure about the 6.75 sizing...my doors call for 6.5. I'm sure I can figure a way to get it to work...I just don't want to have to cut metal on a brand new car. A spacer perhaps, depending on how much room I have behind the door panel.

Or the suggested Rockford Fosgate P165-S 6.5" Punch Series.

Which brings up a question...will there be a noticeable difference between a 6.5" and 6.75" woofer? Worth a $10 difference in price?

Amp...maybe the Rockford R400-4D as suggested above. Bridged would give me 200w rms.

I'd have enough left for wiring and perhaps to start on some door deadening as well.

Posted

Usually the mid bass (woofer) part of a speaker isn't the size labeled because the size labeled is just the basket/mounting ring. It may make a difference, but it usually depends on the RMS rating and what you really give them. And the crossover setting is also another big thing.

Posted

And honestly the Pioneers may be a better deal because of the in line crossover. A few other brands has a couple good ones. But I've read a lot on Poly Switches I think they're called messing up on in lines.

Posted

Usually the mid bass (woofer) part of a speaker isn't the size labeled because the size labeled is just the basket/mounting ring. It may make a difference, but it usually depends on the RMS rating and what you really give them. And the crossover setting is also another big thing.

Thanks...I wasn't sure about that but it makes sense.

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