HID Projector Retrofitting DIY by Wood

[Wood]

Alright SMD, I would like to introduce to you guys Projector Retrofitting... I've seen a lot of PnP (plug 'n play) HID kits floatting around here and figured I would do a write-up on how to properly install HIDs by retrofit and my experience with the company I purchased all the parts from.

First off I would like to include that I'm no salesman and just a VERY SATISFIED customer, and when I'm satisfied, you know I like to share my experiences (as I did with Droppinhz & SHCA Customer service)...

To keep it short and sweet so we can get to the good part..... EXCELLENT CS, HIGH quality product (as you'll see), and EXCELLENT CS!!!!

Some of the steps will be specific to your vehicle such as headlight removal and some of the steps will be projector specific such as how it is mounted and which projector can fit in your housing. If you're not for sure, you can contact TRS and they will help you choose what best fits your application. During this tutorial I will be retrofitting a FX-R 3.0 into the headlights of my 2011 Nissan Altima.

Tools Required for Retrofit:

Retrofit kit of your choice ... (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html) I chose the FX-R kit comes with the projectors, hid ballast, hid bulb, relay harness, shroud of your choice and the option to add halos and/or whatever accessories you may need

Resealing Butyl (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/oci-butyl-rubber-glue.html)

JB Weld Epoxy (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/jbweld-epoxy.html)

Vise Grips or Clamps

Heat Gun

Dremel with Cutting wheel and Sanding Wheel

Scuff pads (optional, only if you're painting)

and Balls 'o steel (lol)

Hardware:

1" L brackets

#8-32 x 1/2" srews

#8-32 x 1" #8-32

#8-32 nuts

#8-32washers

(this will projector & headlight specific as you may need a different size or way to mount your projector)

Accessories:

Halo (optional) (http://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xbaled-angel-eyes.html)

High Temp Paint (optional)

Color Match Paint (optional)

[Wood]

Step 1:

Park your car 25ft from a wall and mark with painters tape where your factory cut off line is with your halogen bulb (has to be done at night)... this is where you will align your projectors later in this tutorial....

Remove the headlights from your vehicle (this is vehicle specific so follow the directions to uninstall the lights for your car)

For me it required to take the bumper off and remove 3 bolts holding the headlight

Step 2:

Bake open your headlights in the oven. Research if your headlights have Butyl or Permaseal.. This is VERY important information that you should know... For my car, Nissan chose Permaseal (which happens to be the hardest to open -.-)

For permaseal, I baked them for 10min @ 225 degrees (to be safe)

for permaseal it will DEFINITLY take multiple times as the sealant hardens like plastic unlike butyl, but just continue to re bake them for 5min intervals @ 225 degrees until they open

It took me approx. 45min each light because of Nissan and their good/poor decisions LOL

Step 3:

Remove the Reflector bowl from the housing which will be attached by screws and the Headlight adjustment (which is ball and joint)

[shogen]

nice... can't wait to see the results!

[Wood]

Step 4:

Cut your reflector so that your projector fits in the housing when mounted

Step 5: (multiple steps)

Prep your pieces of choice for paint.

Scuff the chrome until it is no longer shiny and clean the dust off before paint.

Since its plastic, theres no need for grey primer.. just spray with adhesion promoter

Paint light coats and make sure to follow cure time per your paint choice

Test fit

To complete my paint process I clear coated the shrouds only as I used Flat Metallic Black on the reflectors

[Wood]

Step 6:

After allowing the paint to cure properly (I gave it 24hrs) Mount the projectors with the hardware to the reflector bowl (projector and headlight housing specific so I wont go into too much detail)

During this step you will be checking for horizontal alignment (this must be done at night) TRS includes test leads for your ballast so that you can power your kit without having to completeyl wire your car during this step

ALSO DURING THIS STEP MAKE SURE THAT YOU MOUNT YOUR HEADLIGHTS ONTO THE CAR AS IF YOU WERE REINSTALLING... DO NOT PUT THE LENS BACK ON, THIS IS TO STRICTLY TEST FOR HORIZONTAL ALIGNMENT

When using hardware (if your headlight allows it by design) use washers to get the alignment straight and the results should look as follows:

After you get the horizontal alignment situated, use the headlight adjustment to vertically align the projectors to where you initally marked for you factory halogen bulb.. you will notice the tape on the fence in my pictures

Step 7:

After you get the adjustment right, take the headlight assembly back off and mount your halo to the shroud.. I mounted mine behind the shroud for an "Iron Man effect" ... I mounted the halo with JB weld... if mounting from the front, theres a technique using thin wire, but just research "how to mount halo to shorud"

After halo install (which is optional) test fit to make sure your lens will close with the assembly installed (do NOT bake your headlights back close, this is only test fitment)

Step 8: (only applies to lights with permaseal)

Clean EVERY SINGLE LAST PIECE of permaseal from the channel as this is CRUCIAL, I REPEAT CRUCIAL for resealing the headlight so no moisture enters the lights and fog up your headlights!!!

If your headlight comes with butyl, you can just reuse the factory butyl to reseal

Step 9:

If you have permaseal, put the new butyl into the channels, do not go too thick because it doesn't help keep moisture out any more then putting a regular amountin there...

(I didn't get any pictures of this step, but its self explanitory)

Step 10:

Put the lens on (like when test fitting) and bake your lights on 230 degrees for 5min. Once you take it out make sure you push the lens close until your able to snap each tab into place that holds the lens to the housing... once you have it pushed in clamp it with your vise grips or clamps and keep it on there for at least 1hr. Do one light at a time so you can keep up with everything

Step 11:

Wire up your HID Kit and Relay Harness (which is like any other PnP kit, but in case you are not in the know, TRS provides tutorials on how to wire up your HID Kit)

Couldn't get pictures as I was crunching for time because I didn't have a spare set of lights, which would be BEST if you don't have 2 vehicles.... So I advise you to get another set of headlights if you only have 1 primary vehicle!!!!

Step 12: (If you don't have a halo, skip this step)

Find a place to mount your switch for your halos (this is completely up to you)

After you've found the perfect spot, wire your switch (switch dependent so I will not include how to wire it in this tutorial)

Replace all your factory pieces to where you mounted your switch

Step 13:

Mount your bumper back on and Enjoy the Fruits of your Labor

[Wood]

PLEASE IGNORE THE WHEEL GAP, SHE WILL BE LOWERED IN JUNE!!!!!

[Wood]

[Cruze2]

Wow...very nice job with the retrofit! Shit looks clean!

[Wood]

Here's a preview of the output

if you look at the reflector down the road, thats my lights... that was at least a 1/4mile up the road... but I can DEFINITELY see further down (which no factory halogen nor pnp hid kit can do), that was just a quick snap at a red light! not to mention that BEAUTIFUL COLORFUL cutoff line :)

[Wood]

Wow...very nice job with the retrofit! Shit looks clean!

Thanks man, I appreciate it!!!!