moredbs Posted May 3, 2014 Report Posted May 3, 2014 I'm trying to figure out how to make my enclosure front board removable or would this be a bad idea? i want to be able to open the front of the box in case something needs checked or changed. I'm installing 3 15sp4s on a dc 9k.the front baffle is 1.5 inches thick I've been looking at t-nuts and machine screws but can't find any that are long enough for this. thought about stair rail screw/bolts, or is this just a bad idea for this setup, should i just glue it screw it glass it and be done?
timc31610 Posted May 4, 2014 Report Posted May 4, 2014 I've seen several 4th orders on here with a removable cover. I wouldn't seal the subs in. My Build Log 94 Civic http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188644-94-civic-4-door-build-loq-suggestions-wanted-will-be-super-slow-mo/ Faceebook reluctantly
mrd6 Posted May 4, 2014 Report Posted May 4, 2014 You'll want the ability to.make adjustments with a bandpass. Threaded inserts is the way to go. Both my front and rear port in my current build are removable with 1/4" - 20 threaded inserts. My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL
CleanSierra Posted May 4, 2014 Report Posted May 4, 2014 Like this one: Make a lip on the outer edge that overlaps the box by a couple or few inches. Drill holes for the screws(a little bit bigger also, so there is slight wiggle room). Pre drill some holes the outer diameter of you T nut collar so they set easier. I agree, threaded inserts would be better that's? Than T-nuts(I hate T nuts). Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
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