94 Ford Beast-350 OBS CCLB - Motor is done, need to sell, questions-please help

[scooter99]

There was one here I almost missed. The port is there just center right of the picture.

Yep, right there.

Now for the other side.

[scooter99]

Lots of tubes going through the center here. Those will get tidied up.

Same thing here. You can see the tubes under the harness, running the same direction as the blue coil wire.

[scooter99]

Oh that's better. Whew!

Passenger side.

Time for some belt action .

Oh my, she looks like she's almost ready to run. Both belts on, and just about everything back in and ready to go. Oh except that huge gaping hole in the middle there which is why you can see the motor from this vantage point! LOL. Oh that!!

A/C Condenser, and the tranny cooler.

It's a little beat up, but I was over budget already so I said skip it. Hopefully it doesn't come back to bite me later.

[scooter99]

I did, however, buy a new radiator.

A/C Condenser in.

Center bracket ready to go in.

Let's get this put together.

As you can see, my reference manual in the back there. I'm glad I didn't throw the old radiator away yet. Those two adapters on the left, brass ones, are not big enough. Had to use the old ones.

Oh man is this exciting. So much progress!!

[scooter99]

Upper Radiator hose. A/C tube connected to the condenser.

Tube wouldn't fit on the new adapter.

So I stole the old one off of the old radiator. All better.

Same thing down there.

Transmission cooler ready to go on.

Upper tube from the radiator neck to the heater hose.

Transmission cooler on.

Lines connected.

Upper tube on.

Connection at the heater hose.

Cannot secure this down until the fan shroud is on.

[scooter99]

Cleaning up the air intake tubes.

Got this tube on waiting for the intake tubes.

Air intake done.

Overall view of the motor, pretty much all put back together.

Managed to wrestle the fan shroud in. It's a bit tougher when you have bear hands like I do. Those bolts on the fan are not easy to get to. But there it is.

Fluids: Now, let's not take me to school on fluids. Everyone has their preference I get it. But this is what I had available, and I'm not worried about it. Prestone Power Steering fluid for the new pump (although I admit to not knowing that these use ATF F Fluid. SO I'm going to drain that and put some of that stuff in it.), Fram Transmission filter and gasket, O'Reilly ATF Fluid, Rotella T6 5W-40 Oil, Motorcraft FL-1A Oil Filters (2 remember I have the dual relocation kit), and then a bunch of Peak 50/50 Long Life Rad Fluid. Let's get some of these bottles emptied!

So to start, I did a little oil wash, so to speak. I knew the oil pan wasn't empty, as much as I've cleaned and washed and stuff on the motor. SO I had some oil from the last oil change I did a year ago. It's new, not used oil. My thought was pour it in, remove the distributor and pump it through. Clean it out. This was the result. There was quite a bit of thin fluid in it. SO I'm glad I did this.

After all that was done, I put the new filters on. Yes I did all of that with the old filters on, not new ones.

I didn't even try and go through the transmission fluid drain. What a pain in the ass. There are some good tutorials on how to do this thoroughly, on you tube, and there's a good write up on Ford Truck Enthusiast forum. It's not difficult, just messy. This is the cleaned up pan.

Got the new rad fluid in.

Time for a battery. This is not a new battery, it's from my 06 F520. One of two of them. But I cleaned it up thinking it would save me from having to buy a new one.

Put a new ground to body on, and put a new connector on the ground to frame wire.

[scooter99]

Then I had some issues I couldn't figure out what they were. So I had to pull it. Thought it was the battery, but no. It was doing a very slow crank like it had a dead battery. I put one of the XS Power D6500's in here from my F250 currently, and it still wouldn't start. Wouldn't even crank. I also ended up smoking an ICM in the process. So between my research and the internet, and friends and facebook, we traced it to a ground. Just had to find it.

This is the ground wire from the frame to the block. Subsequently, it's also the same line as the frame to battery ground. It broke clean off. This was down where I was putting my feet while working on this thing for the last year. I could've very easily broke it, although it looked pretty warn so I'm not sure what the final result was. But I know it has to be replaced.

So I got it all removed. Time to replace it and hope it was the issue.

Straight ahead is the hole the bolt came from. Just below that is the bracket that holds the exposed cable, and also bolts to the frame. Serves 2 purposes at one time. Holds it in place and acts as a connector.

Got it removed and ready to take out.

Have to remove this up here obviously too. This is the D6500 that I tried it with.

So it's out and ready to be replaced.

See what I mean by it looking like it's been broken for a while. The lower part looks fresher than the rest, so maybe it was just hanging on by a strand or 4. I don't know.

[scooter99]

In the meantime, I decided to replace the body cab to bracket strap too. Using some Sky High Car Audio Cable​ I made it all work.

All cables done and ready to go in.

Cab body to bracket. Upper left to bottom right of the picture.

Block to frame, and frame to battery connections in and tight.

at the battery.

[Evan_P]

Just for future reference, you can get a later pan from a 4R100 trans (same case as an E4OD) and it will bolt right up and they come with drain plugs in them. I did this when I did my first trans service on my truck. Got the pan and new reusable rubber gasket from Ford for About $80.

[scooter99]

That's all for tonight. I have a video uploading and I'll have to upload another one tomorrow night. Then I can finish the pics. There's about 25 pics left to post to bring everyone up to current.

Thanks for checking this out everyone, and thanks for all your help and support.

More tomorrow night hopefully!