PortSideAudio Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 Hey guys, so I'm running a Soundqubed Q1-2200. So I was running the DD-1 on my amp and I was getting distortion way before I should have been getting on this amp! but the really weird part that we found was that we would be turning up the gain then suddenly the amp would start making a buzzing noise and this is right when the DD-1 would detect distortion... Now what we eventually did was turn the infrasonic filter to where I would normally have it and turn the headunit down to 50/62 (headunit can go to 62 no distortion), there we got a real good gain setting. But I would still like to find out what this buzzing from the amp is! Electrical: Knu 0 AWG to XS D1200 battery in back, off of that we are running Knu 4 AWG wire to distroblock which then run to a Q4-120 and the Q1-2200 Everything is grounded to the chassis except for the relay battery isolator which is just grounded to some metal inside the car (that should not need a heavy ground) RCAs: I am running the amp as if it were single-ended (this is what I was told Soundqubed amps were) so coax RCAs 2002 Toyota Corolla Pioneer DEH-80PRS Soundqubed Q1-2200d Soundqubed HDC3.118 Soundqubed Q4-120 Alpine SPR-60 Alpine SPR-60C
poorfish88 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 My 2200 buzzed to when I used the DD1, it don't like slamming with no subs connected. I'd dump the isolator, it lowers your voltage. It's not needed and is hard on the batts.
PortSideAudio Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Posted May 15, 2014 Would I be able to put resistance on the line then run the dd-1 to get a true distortion test? And I'm running a relay isolator not a diod, so I shouldn't have a volt drop, and as of now i haven't replaced my stock batt with an AGM so I'm gona be the isolator till I do that, should be soon! 2002 Toyota Corolla Pioneer DEH-80PRS Soundqubed Q1-2200d Soundqubed HDC3.118 Soundqubed Q4-120 Alpine SPR-60 Alpine SPR-60C
Guest Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 Would I be able to put resistance on the line then run the dd-1 to get a true distortion test? And I'm running a relay isolator not a diod, so I shouldn't have a volt drop, and as of now i haven't replaced my stock batt with an AGM so I'm gona be the isolator till I do that, should be soon! if you want to wreck the alternator faster, then stick with the isolator. they're a useless piece of equipment for a daily system, and do way more harm than good.
poorfish88 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 I'd dump the isolator. My 2200 made the buzz. I didn't think it hurt anything, or affect the dd1 tune. I could be wrong.
PortSideAudio Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Posted May 15, 2014 Would I be able to put resistance on the line then run the dd-1 to get a true distortion test? And I'm running a relay isolator not a diod, so I shouldn't have a volt drop, and as of now i haven't replaced my stock batt with an AGM so I'm gona be the isolator till I do that, should be soon! if you want to wreck the alternator faster, then stick with the isolator. they're a useless piece of equipment for a daily system, and do way more harm than good. alright sounds good 2002 Toyota Corolla Pioneer DEH-80PRS Soundqubed Q1-2200d Soundqubed HDC3.118 Soundqubed Q4-120 Alpine SPR-60 Alpine SPR-60C
PortSideAudio Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Posted May 15, 2014 My question is: Why are relay isolators bad for the alternator, I understand why diode based isolators are bad because it completely isolates the batteries so the alternator has to do extra work. But relay based isolators is just a simple relay that connects the batteries when the car is on and breaks the connection between the two batteries when the car is off. It would be great if you could clear this up for me! thanks! 2002 Toyota Corolla Pioneer DEH-80PRS Soundqubed Q1-2200d Soundqubed HDC3.118 Soundqubed Q4-120 Alpine SPR-60 Alpine SPR-60C
Karkov Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 Every amp I test with DD-1 buzzes right at distortion. Follow the directions to a "T" make sure you find the HU's distortion point (you said you have done this) and your gain setting is dependent on the output voltage of the RCA's off the HU so where it's set at really doesn't matter as far as how far the dial is turned etc. Buzzing=bad 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
Guest Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 My question is: Why are relay isolators bad for the alternator, I understand why diode based isolators are bad because it completely isolates the batteries so the alternator has to do extra work. But relay based isolators is just a simple relay that connects the batteries when the car is on and breaks the connection between the two batteries when the car is off. It would be great if you could clear this up for me! thanks! so when you have two batteries and an isolator, one battery is powering the amp and is disconnected from the alternator. this drains the battery. then when the isolator decides the battery is low enough (11v or whatever the preset is) it switches to the other already charged battery, disconnects that from the alternator, then charges the dead battery. alternators are designed to trickle charge already charged batteries. hook the alt up to a dead battery and it stresses the shit out of the alt because its pulling all that current to try to get the voltage back up. and low voltage + amps = no good.
poorfish88 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 Diode Based Isolator:This type of isolator is basically two very high current diodes in a heat sink. The diode based isolator has the advantage of long life and trouble free operation but many of the diode based isolators cause a .4 to .6 volt loss which means that the batteries will not charge to as high a voltage as when they are connected directly to the alternator. The diagram below shows the connection for the diode based isolator. Some diode type isolators have a fourth terminal which controls the current flow through the device or allows the alternator to receive enough voltage to begin charging. I took that straight frome BCAE1.com.
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