gr8handogoatness Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 I would look into XS Power batteries. Find out how much room you have to work with and get the biggest one that will fit. Do the big 3 and then go onto youtube and look up some videos on setting gains. you will find that an o-scope or a DD-1 is what you will need. DD-1 is cheaper and easier to use. Also Kylar96 can be very helpful at times and give a good laugh at others, don't assume he is being a dick. You gotta let stuff just roll off. Even if you just yell it at the computer screen you don't have to type it. That's my advise for now. Anything else, let us know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizzual_blur Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Oh im sure he can but im not in the mood for someones non relevant bs. Every forum these days is full of nothing but trolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizzual_blur Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Anyhow, the big 3 is done minus the alt, ive never done one with an external regulator.... do I run a section from the regulator to the alt, then alt to battery or just alt to battery and leave the regulator section oem size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 the others guys settings have nothing to do with your settings. if he had 2volt preouts and you have 6 then you'll Fry the amp! you need to reset them the right way. a yellow top battery is garbage. you Can also look into a die hard amg battery. there half the price and work Just as well as xs, stinger... ect. but you can put the best battery in the world there and if your alt can't cope then it's pointless. not not to mention most shops tune by ear so there pointless as a benchmark. when he said oh Jesus he was referring to the yellow top bat. they use to be thought of as the best (by noobs) and at one point they were decent. but a new company Owns them now and there not worth half the price. I'm.actually running one right now. before they were bought out. spent $40 on it and still got ripped. but in all honestly you need to take some time and do some research on what gain really does. when you get a good understanding and realize that gain doesn't = volume you might fix your own problem jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizzual_blur Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Did some searching on here and other places, the majority said to leave the regulator section oem. So alt to battery is done, both grounds done. no change on shifting, lights arent dimming as much but still do, and idle is lower than before. im assuming next stop is a better battery of the deep cycle variety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizzual_blur Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 the others guys settings have nothing to do with your settings. if he ad 2volt preouts and you have 6 then you'll Fry the amp! you need to reset them the right way. a yellow top battery is garbage. you Can also look into a die hard amg battery. there half the price and work Just as well as xs, stinger... ect. but you can put the best battery in the world there and if your alt can't cope then it's pointless. not not to mention most shops tune by ear so there pointless as a benchmark. when he said oh Jesus he was referring to the yellow top bat. they use to be thought of as the best (by noobs) and at one point they were decent. but a new company Owns them now and there not worth half the price. I'm.actually running one right now. before they were bought out. spent $40 on it and still got ripped. but in all honestly you need to take some time and do some research on what gain really does. when you get a good understanding and realize that gain doesn't = volume you might fix your own problem sorry didnt see your reply, but I understand that gains dont equal volume but the way it sits now, its not even on par with the stereo in my integra and should be alot better. The alt is probably the issue, but at the same time, the battery in the car now is smaller than oem. Has a mighty 650 cranking ampsas far as the optima bsttery, I didnt know if they had gotten any better over the years, I had one in my integra like 8 or more years ago and it didnt even survive a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizzual_blur Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 a couple things, 1) what ohm load is your amp seeing? 2) how many amps is your stock alt? 3) how old is the alt? if you've had that amp @1ohm on a stock alt for a while odds are your alt is dying. I've gone threw the stocl alt on every car I've ever bought. 4) in rare and i mean very rare cases doing the big3 can actually.make the voltage.drop worse! and in your case that would mean your car would shut off. the reason being that now your amp has a " bigger straw" to suck power threw. i had that happen with my Saturn sl. had a single jl 500/1 and i Would drop down in the high 10s. did the big 3 within a week And i hit a 8.4 to my surprise the car didn't shut off. i knew right then time for a new alt. i got a new one and added another 500/1 and didn't drop below 12. not bad for a 95amp alt. i just wanted to give you the heads up that the big 3 doesn't always fix the issue. sometimes it makes in worse... rare but it does happen. find your dropping voltage before you do the big 3. your skinny wire might be the only thing saving your alt from completely dying! not sure if this is what you meant but now, unless I tap the gas when I start the car, it turns on then rpms drop and it shuts off. Once started there are no issues unless I crank the stereo. Looks like I will be removing the alt/battery wire tomorrow until I can afford a better alt.... frustrating to say the least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pro7 Posted June 7, 2014 Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 Did some searching on here and other places, the majority said to leave the regulator section oem. So alt to battery is done, both grounds done. no change on shifting, lights arent dimming as much but still do, and idle is lower than before. im assuming next stop is a better battery of the deep cycle variety. I would definitely get an agm battery, they will perform much better and I would way rather get something like a duralast platinum than an optima after all the stuff I have heard about them recently. Supposedly they have switched buildhouses and the quality has lowered. I mean if you can pull an xs d series then thats the top notch shit but dekas, duralasts and duracell agm batteries are all budget worthy consolations. Edit: You shouldnt need to get an HO alt for just 1500w so I could check everything else first, agm batt, grounds, and big 3. I've gotten a blowjob and picked up my iphone behind her back to see what email notification I got from smd before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vizzual_blur Posted June 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 Removed the alt lead from the big 3, car starts just fine.def going to need an alternator stock alt may have worked fine new but at 163k miles, shes probably not so healthy lol. leaving my 1/0 grounds on as they wont hurt anything, but im leaving the amp power disconnected until I can fix the source. might go ahead and do my door speakers and the smaller amp for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aj11 Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 if your looking for a good ho alt look into singer alts. (not stinger singer) they are really well priced the best warranty on the market. which is life time warranty. and from the research I've done they have the highest output at idle. I'll be getting a 275amp singer alt shipped to my door for $438 which is anywhere from $100/200 cheaper then the other alts recommended. not to mention that life time warranty is a nice piece of mind to have! wait is it piece of mind or peace of mind? never thought about that until now! either way you know what I'm saying. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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