gr8handogoatness

They are some awesome speakers. I ran mine on about 110 watts ish. They got pretty loud and sounded good. Once you start pushing them real hard they start to struggle a little so you might need to raise that crossover point on that big amp but yeah, I haven't heard anything like them for the same price.

Well what deck do you have, maybe someone else has the same one and happens to know when it clips. I would always assume yours will clip just earlier since you don't know for sure. I've used a few kenwood decks and none of them have ever clipped, but I don't know model numbers so that isn't helpful. My o-scope shows what I consider clipping just barely before the clip indicator on my Arc Audio amp. But I would say if you find clipping then just back it off a bit, slightly more than a hair (you like the exactness there?). If you don't have a way to find clipping of the signal from your deck then you need to invest a little bit more and get a DD-1. They say you can use the 3/4 rule but depending on the deck (boss in particular is the one place I have seen it) it might clip prior to 3/4 volume. Everything is just better with a DD-1. I say DD-1 because it is cheaper than an oscilloscope and it comes with a CD that has the tracks you need to do all this. Its worth the investment if you are planning on doing much with systems, and if you have a sundown amp you obviously are looking for loud and great sound so it would benefit you for your next system as well. We all know you will upgrade or get a new ride and need another, whatever the case may be get the DD-1 and you will be good.

Steve I'm just gonna throw this out there, you may already know, but tires with low air pressure do better in the sand. Obviously not helpful if you have no way to fill them back up so on your next truck install a couple little tanks and an air compressor. Comes in super handy. You can fill up your tires, rzr tires or a buddy's tires. They have smallish tanks that can be tucked out of the way. Just an idea. Like I said you may have already thought of it. Edit: I now see that I have obviously missed some pages, my bad. I guess I second what has been said.

Yeah I've had too many close calls with mine so I just never wear it anymore. I like my ring and what it represents but I also don't want to lose any fingers or hands or arms or life, so I figure not wearing it will be easier.

Well at 12v if you draw 60 amps that's like 720 watts. W=V×A. So it would only have to be like 69% efficient to put out 500 watts @12v and 4 ohms. (The 125.4). It all depends on efficiency of the components and the design. If is class A or B or AB or D or T, whatever. Also if there are any on board processors or protection circuits that take more current as well. It gets pretty complicated. Don't judge an amp by any one variable. Rating of fuses and efficiency can tell part of the story. But you just have to take their word for it. If it says sundown on it, no need to worry, you get what you pay for and then some. All the big daddy brands are the same. DC, DD... they don't mess around when it comes to trust. If they say it, that's because they will do it on their worst day.

3783.6. I dunno, missed the 5 and hit 7, no idea how thats possible so i figured it was a sign and just went with it.

I know I'm late. All sold out?

Looking good

Yep this is what I was going to say. Build a good ported box for two of them, probably the sundowns, and let it slam. It will be better.I have found that anytime I have been disappointed in equipment that most people recommend and use, it's because I screwed something up. So basically I'm saying you shouldn't be disappointed in those sundown subs on that alpine amp. So box is the issue here.

Any progress on that under-hung SQ coil set up?

Nice

No don't listen to krakin

Don't be a dick.

Allow it!

Land rover/range rover Land cruiser. I don't know why you would buy that as an off road toy though.

That doesn't have 4 doors idiot.

4 wheeler, um suzuki

Tacoma, don't think it's been said.

Toyota 4Runner or Tundra was gonna say raptor

Yeah that wasn't my question. So I'm gonna say its too much power. If you run the sub at 8 ohms that will definitely decrease the power going to the sub. It would work technically but not what I would. So here you go. Build your box to whatever it is that makes you happy. 3.5 cubes or less. The reason you don't want it any bigger is because you have too much power going to it and in a big box that thing will bottom out like theres no tomorrow. Bad news for the woofer. So build your box and then set your gain right. Here is how you do it: Get and o-scope or DD-1 and with the woofers unhooked turn up the gain until it clips. Look at the knob and see where it is pointing. Look at the distance in relation to 0. Turn it down about 1/4 or even 1/3 of the way towards 0. Now carefully pull the knob off or put tape over it and don't ever touch it again. Then go and plug in the remote gain and turn it all the way up and make sure there is not clipping. If it clips throw that POS away because you don't need it. If it doesn't clip then you're good and just refrain from turning the remote gain all the way up while playing.

How do you plan on setting the gains? If you can control yourself you might be ok

Lower to mid 30s is what I would say. Under 36

So you want someone to give you a box design so you can beat this guys w7? I feel like with the things you've said you have much to learn before just going out and winning competitions. Just having someone build you a box... never mind. Good luck.

First off post in the right section with your own thread and not on someone else thread. Then maybe you will get some answers. I know your first was to Jacob but that's still not what this thread is for so post up your own thread and see if you can get some answers. Secondly, and this is the more important one to me (also I'm not deliberately trying to be a dick) but who the hell spends $4000 dollars on stuff that they don't know what to do with or how to use it. I'm thinking maybe you should figure out if it will fit you application before you buy. I mean $4000 into it and you are just now asking what to do. If you wanted a wall you should have figured out what your electrical can handle, how much space you are dealing with, how much power and electrical upgrades you need and then start looking into subs. Anyway, make a thread and ask there, in the right section or nobody will answer anyway. Also Jacob is a busy man. He does his job well, but understand that replying to you on this thread is not his job. Your box isn't his problem, but he is awesome and he and his company have great customer service so he does reply when time permits just because that's what kind of dude he is. Does his job plus some. Now that I'm over that, I wish I knew more so I could help. When you make a new thread be sure to give all the info you have. What type of car and subs and amp... Measurements if you can get them. Tell us about the power you are running and the electrical you have. I am fairly certain that if you do make a thread with this info, someone will end up being very helpful. I'm just not that guy. First off other people can ask about specs for these subs on this thread but I can't. Who else would know what's best for these subs than the guy who built them that I purchased them from? And I do know what to do with them and it is all planned and electrical is done so if you didn't design and build my subs. BTW these are a brand new sub he has and I know basically what to run but I wanted his input. Thanks for the help though.I came off as a bit of an a-hole and I apologize.

I really like the set. Easily worth the money. Never had any problems and sounded good. Handle power well and get fairly loud.