14Fusion Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I have a NVX JAD 800.4 and a NVX JAD 1200.1 mounted under my rear deck. I have SCHA 0 gauge for power and grounds. I have set gains with my DD1 and dont turn up my volume pat 3/4 ever. I am running a stock head unit, alt and battery but have SCHA 0 gauge big three and a Navone N-RHL4 4 Channel LOC. MY issue is my 800.4 will cut out, but the 1200.1 continues going. If I turn down my volume to 0 and then turn up the volume again the 800.4 sometimes will come back on just long enough to cut back out again. If I play on low volume I will still lose my 800.4. Short of tearing the amp apart or getting a new one, anybody have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Could temporarily disable the mono amp and see if the 4 channel will work then. That would allude to it being a voltage drop issue. Specifically, how did you tune with the DD1? Did you follow the procedure, find the max clean volume from the HU/LOC/then amps, or just started the whole procedure with the HU at 3/4 max volume? Possible you're clipping already at that volume. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Fusion Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 I suppose disconnecting one amp would be an ideal thing to do, but it doesnt look like I have any issues voltage wise as I dont have flickering headlights? As for the DD1 I did exactly as it states. My max volume, according to the DD1, for the 4 channel was 7/8s volume and for the mono was actually 100% cranked. When tuning the gains I increased to clipping then down four 'clicks'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WastedTalent Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 voltage drop doesn't include flickering headlights. it can, without doubt, but not always. I had a mitsubishi lancer and regular lights or HID's, flickering lights with voltage drop (never got the voltage fixed). I now have a equinox and with regular lights and HID's, with voltage drop, no flickering lights. get a volt meter and see. Or... just play it as loud as you normally do and get a multimeter and measure the voltage at the amp. is your 4 channel hot as balls when it cuts out? (BE CAREFUL. if it's overheating and going into protect, it will literally sizzle your hand. can cook some fuckin eggs on it) Sheena = pedobear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin - STAPUFT Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Could be lots of stuff. Like wasted said- if it is wicked hot, it could be going into protect. Now, if it does this when you first turn it on too... then it could be a problem with the amp, could be running loads lower than it wants to go, or you could even be overpowering the input section of the RCAs. I've seen that happen many times, where though the signal through the RCA's is clean, it is sending more voltage than the amp can handle through the amp's RCA inputs. Sometimes it fries them, sometimes they just distort, other times they simply cut out. 12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro Build & Comment Log Un-Interrupted Build LogYouTube Channel Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Fusion Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Yeah, it gets hot as balls. But im running my speakers at 4 ohm, which is well within the specs of the amp, so maybe I am pushing too much power through the RCAs... never thought of that. Ill give it a check with my multimeter and check the RCA input levels before assuming the amp is bum though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 I'd say it's clipping.... usually the monoblock will shut off well befor the 4 channel. check the ground again on the 4 chan or try swap the ground for the 4 chan to the mono ground and see if it makes a difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 also watch you voltage at the battery, you might find you need to upgrade your electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WastedTalent Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 May be something as simple as airflow.... I had my 4 chan go into protect from overheating. changed a few things around so it got more air and BOOM BADA BING, hasn't gone to protect since. Sheena = pedobear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Fusion Posted August 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2014 I found out the issue, The input sensitivity for the amp is 6V max and my LOC is putting out 9.5V. I literally just need a new LOC or something in between to eat up some of that voltage. Maybe an equalizer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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