Run new speaker wire? How to?

[Syphlyn]

Recently sold my subs and was able to properly access my 4 channel up as it was under the seat the subs were on. Anyways I tuned it with a DD1 and wow my speakers just came alive as before I just turned the gain all the way down...lol.

Now that it's running properly I'm having thoughts about the factory speaker wire being too small. I have some good thick stuff going from the amp to behind my headunit to the factory wiring, and then the factory wiring goes to each speaker.

If I was to re wire I'd just buy the

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/speaker-wire/kord-speaker-wire/

and run all new runs from the amp to each speaker. All four of my speakers are in the doors and the truck is an extended cab.

So my questions:

1) Should I run new wiring? I'm using an Alpine PDX-F4 rated at 100w x 4 @ 4 ohms. The amp came with a birth sheet showing 128w rms per channel.

2)

How do I do the whole door thing? I've heard the horror stories with people not doing it right, and I want to do it right. Is it difficult to run it properly between the doors? Any videos showing how to do it? I'd prefer to avoid drilling holes between the doors.

3) What gauge wiring should I use? I want to use one or two gauges bigger then what would be ideal for ~128w rms. I'm thinking maybe 12 or 14?

4) I'll disconnect my factory wiring but I'll leave it all there so I'm able to re attach the factory wiring when I sell the truck (I'll be removing the amp) in 4-5 years. Is it okay to leave the factory stuff just disconnected behind the HU and disconnected by each speaker? I'll wrap the ends in electrical tape or something.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post guys!!

[philrab]

How big is the stock wiring?

1. Going by this http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1005-wirefuse-guide/ you may not have much to gain by replacing the wiring vs. tieing in behind the head unit.

2. IF you rewire, follow the stock wiring path. Most people create a fire hazard/short waiting to happen when they try to take the easy way out, and start making new paths. The stock wiring, be it through a MOLEX connector or a rubber boot, is a safe spot to route the wiring, so follow it. How difficult varies from one vehicle to another.

3. See #1. If you want to rewire, I'd say 16 gauge. 14 would be a bit overkill most likely.

4. If the factory wiring is disconnected from the HU, no risk of it getting voltage. I'd just secure it so it doesn't go bouncing around, but shouldn't be any risk of it shorting if it's disconnected on both ends.

[Syphlyn]

How big is the stock wiring?

1. Going by this http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/1005-wirefuse-guide/ you may not have much to gain by replacing the wiring vs. tieing in behind the head unit.

2. IF you rewire, follow the stock wiring path. Most people create a fire hazard/short waiting to happen when they try to take the easy way out, and start making new paths. The stock wiring, be it through a MOLEX connector or a rubber boot, is a safe spot to route the wiring, so follow it. How difficult varies from one vehicle to another.

3. See #1. If you want to rewire, I'd say 16 gauge. 14 would be a bit overkill most likely.

4. If the factory wiring is disconnected from the HU, no risk of it getting voltage. I'd just secure it so it doesn't go bouncing around, but shouldn't be any risk of it shorting if it's disconnected on both ends.

Not sure on the stock wiring and a quick google search turned up nothing. I know it's pretty damn small. I'm considering just more as a safety thing I really want to avoid that smell of melting plastic/burning truck...if you're going to do things, always do it properly.

[k3n12ock]

14g should be good. Best way to run the wire is through the stock locations like philrab said although it will probably be a pain in the ass to work through. Best bet is to have some kind of feed wire or use an old clothes hanger.