AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Only thing I would suggest is to find a better ground. Run it down to the frame if possible. Other than that it all looks nice and clean. I wondered if I was running the ground to the right place or not.... You're the second or third person that has mentioned grounding to the frame, may just have to do that! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasta Prime Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 A good ground is one of the most important things in an electrical system, New build coming........ YouTube:http://www.youtube.c...6?feature=guide Old Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d-on-the-cheap/ Old Screen name: Redrebel66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 A good ground is one of the most important things in an electrical system, Looking for a spot on the frame for a ground now. May have to get a 3-way splitter and put a length of 1/0 OFC down to the frame but I want it all done right. As to my idea about the two alternators, would two, aftermarket 130a stock replacements be equivalent to one 260a? I can make a simple bracket for another one and know a guy who will match me up or order me a belt cheap. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasta Prime Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 If you cant run both amp grounds to the frame you can run one from your rear battery and getting both amps to that. As for the two stock alts not sure how that works but I know at least one guy had done that. I believe it was staypuft? New build coming........ YouTube:http://www.youtube.c...6?feature=guide Old Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d-on-the-cheap/ Old Screen name: Redrebel66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 If you cant run both amp grounds to the frame you can run one from your rear battery and getting both amps to that. As for the two stock alts not sure how that works but I know at least one guy had done that. I believe it was staypuft? There will be 3 batteries joined with a bus bar soon enough, so I can connect all of the ring terminals I need to there. I will have to make a thread about it before I go spending tons on a DC Power or Signer alt., lol. Another 130a is cheap and if I'm not missing something, should be just as powerful! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 So I got my temp box done, finally. Didn't do anything cosmetically yet, will wait until I know it sounds good. Didn't even want to put this on here lol, but if it does sound good, it will be a good before and after pic for when I make it look sick Reduced the 8" down to a 6", heat/bowl flared the inside of the port and used an add on flare for the outside. Hooked my terminal lugs up, flat blacked it all and gonna try it out. Not the best looking thing, but rock solid and should get loud! 4.05 net cubes, tuned to 31Hz, 6" aero port. As you can see, someone had two 8" ports in the damn thing, which is just crazy, so I covered it well, using a ton of glue and screws!. If it sounds good, I will belt sand the entire thing smooth, bevel the edge of that board, add a second baffle layer and Rhino Line the entire box. Already 1" MDF, with a very thick coat of fiberglass inside and all corners 45'd. Outer port is an add on flare that I had laying around. Glues on flush and may drop the tuning a tiny bit, but nothing noticeable. Inner flare I used the heat gun and bowl trick to do.... Came out good I guess, except I ran out of grey paint lol. Here you can see the fiberglass and bracing work. For some reason, the picture made the port look like it's angled down but it is not.... This is my little invention, lol. Accepts up to 4 ring terminals for wiring two subs and is MUCH better than them stupid round plastic terminal plates. Used 8ga. OFC for all of my speaker connections, very thick 8ga. I may add, lol. So there it is, the Frankenbox, lol. With some sanding, filling, another baffle and some Rhino coat, it could look nice too. Just want to make sure it sounds good first and after all, the whole thing is temporary! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Once the sub is in and hopefully sounding good, I will have to take the box back out to Rhino it, which will give me a chance to run the second run of 2ga. (which I really do not need yet), and replace the small piece of 4ga. connecting the dist. blocks. In the mean time, I want to concentrate on getting my rear door speakers in, amp connected to the X-over, them and the tweeters on A pillars and flush mounting my C pillar tweets and rear tweets. Also want to finish replacing the CCA in the big 3 with the orange Knu 1/0 OFC and get my L.E.D's in all four component grilles. A lot of work yet to do but seeing I have all of the supplies, it will get done! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey_Dog650 Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yes ground to the frame. Also may want to secure the battery. The wires aren't enough to hold it in place I'd think. But fuck you getting work done looks great 13 Kia Forte Build! 07 Hyundai Accent Build ***Super Seller*** N8ball2013 And then he gets to say ok all you guys were right. im sorry for being a dummy poo poo head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yes ground to the frame. Also may want to secure the battery. The wires aren't enough to hold it in place I'd think. But fuck you getting work done looks great Going to recess the battery down into the amp rack when I get a new jigsaw blade, lol. Ground will go straight to the frame rails (was surprised it has a frame)... And thanks! Between work, my wife and my kid, hard to get a lot done sometimes haha Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 Well as it isn't much to look at, the 6" port DEFINITELY gives me the output I was looking for! Will have to shoot a demo vid tomorrow when it's daylight, flexing my roof and everything pretty good.... Back window hatch rattles more than ever now, but other than that, sounds awesome!! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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