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2003 Ford Explorer, starting small, working my way up!


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Heres a few pics of the entire setup so far and the sub, not inverted. Nothing huge, yet... but gets pretty damn loud for one sub and a so so amp.

37_zps65ab8002.jpg

38_zps607ea1df.jpg

Learned a lesson with this box, get pre-sanded wood! Already can't wait to get started on my new box and I just finished this one a month ago! lol :-p

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter.

IMG_0785_zpsf3ee3bd9.jpg

IMG_0784_zps73cfd6a7.jpg

14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! :)

IMG_0788_zps7860b461.jpg

There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol.

That's where I was going to mount mine too but I think im switching amp companies so I don't want to cut into it yet (I have a CT1400.1, the voltage meter is built into the bass knob) I like how yours looks there

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Nice bro! Always tuned into a fellow explorer build!

Hell yea! One of the best vehicles to build IMO! Do you have a build log? If so, I would love to check out another Explorer build! :)

Yeah I do but I haven't gotten TOO much done yet, it is a budget build so kinda slow,I did just post pics of my 18" DC lvl 6 tonight tho!!!

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-update-big-3-done-finally/?p=2726230#entry2726230

Hell yea man!!! That's coming together REAL nice! That Eddie Bauer is hella clean too, wish I could put rims on mine but it's snowy and shitty more than it is nice here so.... :/

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter.

IMG_0785_zpsf3ee3bd9.jpg

IMG_0784_zps73cfd6a7.jpg

14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! :)

IMG_0788_zps7860b461.jpg

There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol.

That's where I was going to mount mine too but I think im switching amp companies so I don't want to cut into it yet (I have a CT1400.1, the voltage meter is built into the bass knob) I like how yours looks there

Thanks! My friend has that same CT 1400.1 and I always loved how the meter was right on the knob.... They're seriously under rated amps too, dynoed at like 2380RMS @1ohm I believe it was, maybe it was .5 The test was done by Steve himself so i'm sure it's easy to find the video.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Nice bro! Always tuned into a fellow explorer build!

Hell yea! One of the best vehicles to build IMO! Do you have a build log? If so, I would love to check out another Explorer build! :)

Yeah I do but I haven't gotten TOO much done yet, it is a budget build so kinda slow,I did just post pics of my 18" DC lvl 6 tonight tho!!!

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183469-dionysuss-02-eddie-bauer-explorer-slow-budget-build-update-big-3-done-finally/?p=2726230#entry2726230

Hell yea man!!! That's coming together REAL nice! That Eddie Bauer is hella clean too, wish I could put rims on mine but it's snowy and shitty more than it is nice here so.... :/

Thanks bro!! Its definitely a work in progress on a budget!!! My wheels are the stock wheels for now I just plasti dipped them and only the center of the center caps on em n just left the chrome part on the center caps! But 28s are inline but system always takes priority :-)! But im diggin your build and am lookin forward to seein how it turns out! Explorer love for sure lol!!!

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By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter.

IMG_0785_zpsf3ee3bd9.jpg

IMG_0784_zps73cfd6a7.jpg

14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! :)

IMG_0788_zps7860b461.jpg

There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol.

That's where I was going to mount mine too but I think im switching amp companies so I don't want to cut into it yet (I have a CT1400.1, the voltage meter is built into the bass knob) I like how yours looks there

Thanks! My friend has that same CT 1400.1 and I always loved how the meter was right on the knob.... They're seriously under rated amps too, dynoed at like 2380RMS @1ohm I believe it was, maybe it was .5 The test was done by Steve himself so i'm sure it's easy to find the video.

That's why I bought the amp! ONLY reason im looking Sundown/Crescendo/DC is because the stupid blue lights on the amp! If my theme wasn't red/black I wouldn't mind but it just clashes :-(

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Lol yepp, my theme is going to be orange and black, with the l.e.d's red. Orange wire and red l.e.d components are hard to find, everyone is into blue! My amp lights up blue and clashes too, thankfully the amp is on it's way out soon when I add the second 15! Build will slow down for a short period over the holidays, as they will consume all of the extra cash I need for a good amp/amps. Subs are on credit, so the second 15 is on the way.... Wood for box and amp will be after Christmas though for sure. Going to focus on sound deadening, mid/highs and electrical right now.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Share on other sites

By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter.

IMG_0785_zpsf3ee3bd9.jpg

IMG_0784_zps73cfd6a7.jpg

14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! :)

IMG_0788_zps7860b461.jpg

There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol.

That's where I was going to mount mine too but I think im switching amp companies so I don't want to cut into it yet (I have a CT1400.1, the voltage meter is built into the bass knob) I like how yours looks there

Thanks! My friend has that same CT 1400.1 and I always loved how the meter was right on the knob.... They're seriously under rated amps too, dynoed at like 2380RMS @1ohm I believe it was, maybe it was .5 The test was done by Steve himself so i'm sure it's easy to find the video.

That's why I bought the amp! ONLY reason im looking Sundown/Crescendo/DC is because the stupid blue lights on the amp! If my theme wasn't red/black I wouldn't mind but it just clashes :-(

Oh, and I thought you had rims because of the ones in the background in the pics of the 18 lol. Those are nice rims, whatever they're on.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Share on other sites

By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter.

IMG_0785_zpsf3ee3bd9.jpg

IMG_0784_zps73cfd6a7.jpg

14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! :)

IMG_0788_zps7860b461.jpg

There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol.

That's where I was going to mount mine too but I think im switching amp companies so I don't want to cut into it yet (I have a CT1400.1, the voltage meter is built into the bass knob) I like how yours looks there

Thanks! My friend has that same CT 1400.1 and I always loved how the meter was right on the knob.... They're seriously under rated amps too, dynoed at like 2380RMS @1ohm I believe it was, maybe it was .5 The test was done by Steve himself so i'm sure it's easy to find the video.
That's why I bought the amp! ONLY reason im looking Sundown/Crescendo/DC is because the stupid blue lights on the amp! If my theme wasn't red/black I wouldn't mind but it just clashes :-(

Oh, and I thought you had rims because of the ones in the background in the pics of the 18 lol. Those are nice rims, whatever they're on.

Ooooohhhhjhhh ok I see! Nah those are my boys for his Hummer! He sent me pics of the sub the other day and those are the pics he sent! His ride is baaaaaaad baaaaaaaaad you GOTRA check it out! 50k+ RMS, 8 AA 18s, 32" forgezzzz its madness!!!! It called The Stormtrooper Hummer you can find his building log in the build log section, he's a good dude he's helpped me A LOT getting my build together and stuff!!!

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By the time I got the plastic off and the metal cleaned, the temperature was about 42 degrees F. Wayy too cold to work with deadener and kind of too cold for me to be working outside in general lol. So looking like 60 degrees tomorrow with all day sun, then I can park her in the sun and get to work! Doing both the outer and inner metal layers anyway, which will take some time and it was getting late. Took my left over time to start er up, get some heat and flush mount my voltage meter.

IMG_0785_zpsf3ee3bd9.jpg

IMG_0784_zps73cfd6a7.jpg

14.4 with no subs running, headlights on. Stays at around 14.7 while driving without lights on and 13.8-13.9 at full tilt, lights on. Was pleasantly surprised with my voltages! :)

IMG_0788_zps7860b461.jpg

There is a small metal tab behind the meter that stops it from clipping all the way in. As you can see, the top right is out just a little bit. Will bend the tab slightly, tuck the parking brake and meter wires in better and clean my dirty console tomorrow lol.

That's where I was going to mount mine too but I think im switching amp companies so I don't want to cut into it yet (I have a CT1400.1, the voltage meter is built into the bass knob) I like how yours looks there

Thanks! My friend has that same CT 1400.1 and I always loved how the meter was right on the knob.... They're seriously under rated amps too, dynoed at like 2380RMS @1ohm I believe it was, maybe it was .5 The test was done by Steve himself so i'm sure it's easy to find the video.
That's why I bought the amp! ONLY reason im looking Sundown/Crescendo/DC is because the stupid blue lights on the amp! If my theme wasn't red/black I wouldn't mind but it just clashes :-(

Oh, and I thought you had rims because of the ones in the background in the pics of the 18 lol. Those are nice rims, whatever they're on.

Ooooohhhhjhhh ok I see! Nah those are my boys for his Hummer! He sent me pics of the sub the other day and those are the pics he sent! His ride is baaaaaaad baaaaaaaaad you GOTRA check it out! 50k+ RMS, 8 AA 18s, 32" forgezzzz its madness!!!! It called The Stormtrooper Hummer you can find his building log in the build log section, he's a good dude he's helpped me A LOT getting my build together and stuff!!!

I seen the StormTrooper on here a while back, should have recognized the rims lol. Definitely a cleaaannn ride :) I know the Explorers will never be a Hummer, but I hope for my install to be nearly as clean someday :)

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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